$1 Irwin 30 - project photos

[dfw_sailor]

@dfw_sailor What's the make and model of that heater? Does it have an integral fuel tank? I don't see any fuel lines.

Generic Chinese.  I'll put up another couple of photos in a day or so. And a link or two. That photo doesn't show the fuel line. 

I wanted the fuel pump (which does has a tick sound for each pulse) at the rear of the cockpit. My cockpit is t style, but have a tiller so the sides of the t are wasted/ usable space for tankage. We still plan to go electric overall,  but we plan to keep using a small amount of diesel to heat.  Consumption runs about 1 quart per 10 hour.

 

[Ajax]

I was amazed at how compact it is.

 

[SloopJonB]

When you install nice shiny bits like that you're supposed to sand the ragged fiberglass and then paint first.

Didn't anybody tell you?

 

[dfw_sailor]

When you install nice shiny bits like that you're supposed to sand the ragged fiberglass and then paint first.

Didn't anybody tell you?

Yeah,  and did you look at the lack of plates under the winches and cleats on the underside of the coaming?

 

[IStream]

Shame you had to hide that sexy carbon fiber down below. Any issues with the exhaust melting that green (furling?) line?

 

[dfw_sailor]

Shame you had to hide that sexy carbon fiber down below. Any issues with the exhaust melting that green (furling?) line?

Chinese imitation carbon fiber finish - its plastic.

The green spinnaker sheet doesn't normally sit there.  Well spotted though. No damage where it was sitting.  You can hold you hand as close as 6 inches to the exhaust before it becomes uncomfortably  warm.

I've also lagged the exhaust with fiberglass tape just in case,  the hottest part can reach 300f and only about 2 inches from the inside coaming wall.

 

[IStream]

I was being sarcastic about the "carbon fiber" 

 

[Wess]

No judgement here. I drink Miller High Life and its elk.

Elk is good eatin!  You are living the high life.

 

[Wess]

Hey @dfw_sailor.  Great thread.  If memory serves me I sailed one of these quite a bit back in the 80s when I friend had a deep keel centerboard version on Barnegat Bay... which don't have much deep water LOL.  Great sailing boat if my memory serves me. Great job fixing her up!  Nicely done.

 

[dfw_sailor]

I was amazed at how compact it is.

Don't know why this forum sw rotates photos from Samsung androids...grrr.

Left side of photo is up, bottom of photo is outside starboard coaming wall. Fuel line and combustion air intake next to the fuel line.

I have better fiberglass tape at work so will replace someone this week. 

we are thinking we will use flexible 1" pvc (we use this as work) to run the combustion air  in take to the front of the v berth.  This would create just enough negative pressure in the berth to promote warm naturally flowing up there. And it's reasonably simple to run 1" up along the deck/hull join.

The inside width of the coaming is 12" where the combustion intake, exhaust and fuel lines exit the unit.

The inside depth of the coaming is 9 ", giving sufficient room and fall to the marine exhaust outlet.

sorry all for typos, I use swype too much and don't reread / correct enough. 

CO testing atm, prior to final placement of controller,  fuel line etc. 

Btw if anyone needs replacement CO alarms,  Home Depot is bringing in new stock in a week. They currently have previous (digital display kidde CO alarm) 2 packs on run-out for $11.

 

[dfw_sailor]

V berth tv. 24" smart TV, blind mounted to panel. $50 pre Christmas sale.

Bottom of the panel has a rear n shaped seat to sit over the existing locker bottom, and a locking latch hidden at the top to hold it in place,  

Cables will be blind hidden when I do work up there again. 

I added a through deck chain feed, so don't need regular access to this locker anymore. 

The starboard berth panel was just a test with some scrap.  Will be replaced one day.  Not a high priority.

Ps. Just found on my note 9 phone,  editing anything on a photo (contrast or similar) and then save,  then publish onto this forum stops the rotated photo problem. Go figure. 

 

[chester]

Don't know why this forum sw rotates photos from Samsung androids...grrr.

Left side of photo is up, bottom of photo is outside starboard coaming wall. Fuel line and combustion air intake next to the fuel line.

I have better fiberglass tape at work so will replace someone this week. 

we are thinking we will use flexible 1" pvc (we use this as work) to run the combustion air  in take to the front of the v berth.  This would create just enough negative pressure in the berth to promote warm naturally flowing up there. And it's reasonably simple to run 1" up along the deck/hull join.

The inside width of the coaming is 12" where the combustion intake, exhaust and fuel lines exit the unit.

The inside depth of the coaming is 9 ", giving sufficient room and fall to the marine exhaust outlet.

sorry all for typos, I use swype too much and don't reread / correct enough. 

CO testing atm, prior to final placement of controller,  fuel line etc. 

Btw if anyone needs replacement CO alarms,  Home Depot is bringing in new stock in a week. They currently have previous (digital display kidde CO alarm) 2 packs on run-out for $11.

View attachment 423997

is it going to be able to suck 1 inch of air from the vberth?

where does the heat get ducked to?  into the salon?

 

[dfw_sailor]

is it going to be able to suck 1 inch of air from the vberth?

where does the heat get ducked to?  into the salon?

Atm the heating air circuit intake is unducted 3". We are considering using an existing blower vent to pickup fresh air. There are still some smells due to manufacturing oils still burning off.

The 3 inch hot air duct is only 2 feet long, of course can be made longer,  but points down to the middle of the salon floor, helping to get some heat down there,  but of course rises anyway. 

The one inch combustion inlet hose is currently 2 foot long with a pickup filter.  I don't think lengthening this to 20' will negatively impact the heater.  If it does i could upgrade to 1 1/2", or simply double up. 

It's running on idle atm air temp is about 60. Main hatch open,  washboard out, salon temp is 88f.

We don't want to much heat in the v berth, a full duct up there would be too hot, plus even running a 2 inch hot line up there would be difficult. 

 

[chester]

Atm the heating air circuit intake is unducted 3". We are considering using an existing blower vent to pickup fresh air. There are still some smells due to manufacturing oils still burning off.

The 3 inch hot air duct is only 2 feet long, of course can be made longer,  but points down to the middle of the salon floor, helping to get some heat down there,  but of course rises anyway. 

The one inch combustion inlet hose is currently 2 foot long with a pickup filter.  I don't think lengthening this to 20' will negatively impact the heater.  If it does i could upgrade to 1 1/2", or simply double up. 

It's running on idle atm air temp is about 60. Main hatch open,  washboard out, salon temp is 88f.

We don't want to much heat in the v berth, a full duct up there would be too hot, plus even running a 2 inch hot line up there would be difficult. 

Ok

That's what I'm talking about!!!!

 

[Not the fake Quattro]

Maybe I am confused by your post.

Are you proposing bringing combustion air for the heater 20+ feet from inside the living space? 

I would advise against that, combustion air should be 100 percent outside air.  The distance is also a big restriction on air flow.  

A mix of inside / outside air is preferable for cold air supply, so if you want to promote flow of warm air thru the living space, draw 30 percent from inside, in the v berth if you can swing it.

For any heater to operate correctly, it needs good flow.

I install and service heaters in PNW.  

Quattro

 

[dfw_sailor]

Maybe I am confused by your post.

Are you proposing bringing combustion air for the heater 20+ feet from inside the living space? 

I would advise against that, combustion air should be 100 percent outside air.  The distance is also a big restriction on air flow.  

A mix of inside / outside air is preferable for cold air supply, so if you want to promote flow of warm air thru the living space, draw 30 percent from inside, in the v berth if you can swing it.

For any heater to operate correctly, it needs good flow.

I install and service heaters in PNW.  

Quattro

Awesome advice / experience - thanks!  I will see what I can swing with  routing from the v berth. I could probably run a 2" up there.

 

[dfw_sailor]

So, it's been an interesting year or two. Work challenges, a significant vehicle wreck, and the US going to shit.

So the wife and I have decided to make this boat as livable as possible as a getaway on our 3m x 5m lake.

Had a beautiful sail with out of state visitors last night watching fireworks, about 10 kts consistent.

Done in the last year (not much), wen generator (2200w 52db) mounted to transom, cabin port bench removable extension, shade sails to beat the Texas sun. Photos to come..

But timely for the shade sail photos.

Shade sails, $45, Amazon

PVC $25, straps and d clips $20

We also have a side sail for low sun, as needed.

5 minutes to assemble / disassemble. So far good to 15 kts apparent. Designed for use at marina or at anchor.

The structural key to all of this is the front PVC cross member. It is bowed back from the pole ring, behind the forward shrouds.

PVC tees have slots in the tee to position against the shrouds.

Tension in the foredeck sail ensures the cross piece will not move.

The rear of the rectangular sail is tensioned by PVC running across the rear of the boom, arc'ed down with elastic straps.

All clips are snap d rings.

We should be ready to paint the deck in about a week. Sanding and fairing in the mornings before the heat hits.

PVC parts will be painted in deck paint when deck painted.

 

[gptyk]

Those shade sails look nice. Way nicer than the Tommy Bahama beach umbrella SWMBO and I had for shade on the old boat.

Looks like a nice old C-30 next to you in that last pic.

 

[Marcjsmith]

Pvc isn’t gonna last long being bent like that, And once you add paint to the pipes, it’s gonna start flaking off making a mess.

Idea....

Foredeck shade. Add a grommet to the centerline at the aft edge. Attch line to grommet. Then attach to mast just above the mainsail then either take the corners down to the lifeline or add a grommet on the hemline close to a shroud and then clip-in there

Aft shade. Grommet centerline fore and aft. Aft grommet attaches to topping lift with a tether continuing aft to aft end of boom. Grommet centerline forward attch main halyard with a tether to wrap around boom at gooseneck. And the corners then go down to lifeline. Will give you an A frame style of tent. With some altitude

Another option would be stick in a d ring with reinforcement in the center of the shade material. Attch main halyard and hoist away. Corners will end up attached to lifelines. Will give you a pyramid type structure

Or just lay the shade over the boom and take corners down to lifelines with clips and bungee which is the easiest. But does make going forward a pita

Forward shade could also be used as an adhock windscoop for the forward hatch if the aft end is lowered to the Deck and the leading end attached like you have it now

Just a suggestion . Take a few more wraps on the furler

Looking good...

 

[dfw_sailor]

Pvc isn’t gonna last long being bent like that, And once you add paint to the pipes, it’s gonna start flaking off making a mess.

Idea....

Foredeck shade. Add a grommet to the centerline at the aft edge. Attch line to grommet. Then attach to mast just above the mainsail then either take the corners down to the lifeline or add a grommet on the hemline close to a shroud and then clip-in there

Aft shade. Grommet centerline fore and aft. Aft grommet attaches to topping lift with a tether continuing aft to aft end of boom. Grommet centerline forward attch main halyard with a tether to wrap around boom at gooseneck. And the corners then go down to lifeline. Will give you an A frame style of tent. With some altitude

Another option would be stick in a d ring with reinforcement in the center of the shade material. Attch main halyard and hoist away. Corners will end up attached to lifelines. Will give you a pyramid type structure

Or just lay the shade over the boom and take corners down to lifelines with clips and bungee which is the easiest. But does make going forward a pita

Forward shade could also be used as an adhock windscoop for the forward hatch if the aft end is lowered to the Deck and the leading end attached like you have it now

Just a suggestion . Take a few more wraps on the furler

Looking good...

Appreciate the inputs, all worthwhile.

I'm going to be stubborn and stick with what we have right now. There is a good chance the PVC will break over time ( and I'll give an update on the poly paint in about 4 weeks).

We really want to stay away from the angled tent approach, because pita.

Photos don't show it, to but there is a significant vertical drop from forward to aft, which creates a funnel effect, good for at anchor.

 

[dfw_sailor]

Fairing (nearly done).

Looks like I will have this boat for at least another 3 to 4 years, longer if the US continues on the downward spiral.

So in a break from cheap as chips, putting in a axiom 7 dv (chart and depth/sonar), and an extra axiom 7 as wind display.

The 0183 equipment is mostly toast, so will build up the sensors over time. In hull transducer first, then likely a clipper 2k mast head set.

A PO badly mounted a traveller, needed a full core replacement and rebuild.

Built out the old motor instrument panel recess, and added the small cuddy, about 5 inches depth to the back of it.

For those new to the thread, the bare wood is one of three removable steps, over the top of the 6k btu AC (it's a lake boat, small waves.

If we eventually move the boat to the coast, the AC can be removed and cockpit front reinstated, or more likely have a removable water right enclosure.