1978 Tasar Restoration

[carlhartman]

I recently picked up a 1978 Tasar, HIN PSL008200978, Sail # 820 that had been sitting in a vacant lot for the last 25 years.

I probably have a lot of questions. My goal is to restore the boat close to original condition, but also planning to use new parts.

I have also read through all the rules governing what and how things can be replaced to make it acceptable for racing. That does not make me an expert.

I also have the Tasar manual that is published on their web site.

Ironically, before I found out the make of the boat, we almost canabalized it for another purpose.

1) MISSING HIN PLACARD

The HIN had been removed from the boat. It is obvious where it had been attached. I was able to talk to our government marine registrar and verify the HIN.

Given the age of the craft, I was hoping to find a replacement HIN label as close to the original placed on the boat. I would even be okay with a graphic of the vintage label that I could have something made. My desire is to preserve that history, if possible.

Any pictures or information would be appreciated.

2) DECK RESURFACING

When I pulled the boat out of the vacant lot, the deck was black with moss, which I removed via power washing. The deck is now stained and appears off-white or a light cream color. It would be helpful to know the approximate color of the original deck.

As it now sites it is mildly pitted, exposing the fiberglass. I found gelcoat that is made to resurface the deck’s various features. This will allow me to duplicate the smooth and rough areas/patterns on the deck.

3) HULL

The hull appears in decent shape for a 45+ y/o craft. There are a few areas that are damaged down to the fiberglass because the trailer sucks. I am totally refurbishing the trailer to form to the hull and place cradles on the trailer so the boat is not bouncing on a hard surface while being trailered.

That said, I will repair scratches, dings, etc. with boat epoxy and then spray new gelcoat on the hull, attempting to match the original color.

Are there any special hints or tips I should know?

4) GUDGEONS

The previous owner had placed gudgeons on the boat that are black plastic. The gudgeons I have seen in photos are metal (and expensive). Does it matter? I didn't see anything in the rules that were specific, as long as the function is the same. I am unclear the original hardware. Any help would be appreciated.

5) OTHER

All the other hardware appears useable. I have boxes of Harkin hardware, new cleats, etc. that, according the the rules I read, it is acceptable to replace with like hardware. Where wire passes over a pulley, I replaced with similar stainless steel pulleys rather than plastic. Most other hardware seems to appear workable, but weathered. Almost all hardware is being replaced.

The sail is shredded, so that will need to be replaced with the mylar.

I am putting all new stainless steel 2.5mm 1x19 cables on the boat.

Any other input would be very helpful. This is my second time refurbishing a boat. The Tasar is totally new to me. Thanks!!!

 

[steveo]

Nice project. Given how old the boat is I would try to wet sand the deck and see if some of the color comes back. If it's too far gone you will end up painting or trying to spray new gelcoat.
Are you planing to race the boat? If not it doesnt really matter how you go about replacing the running rigging.
It looks like sails will be your biggest expense.

 

[carlhartman]

My goal is to get the boat into racing condition.

The deck has some interesting features, including designs in the fiberglass that are original. I found gel coat specifically for decks that are rough, the designs I will use standard gelcoat and mask off to preserve the areas with designs.

After power washing to get most of the deck clean, I found some other gelcoat cleaners and even entertained using TSP. My biggest question is that the deck is now a cream color and not sure the original color. Wondering the cream color is staining or the original color.

The hull has some minor damage. I ordered a product from Total Boat for patching below the water line, along with a primer and gel coat.

After reading a bit, it appears that this model year still was made of kevlar, so being exposed to the elements for 25 years probably won't be that much of an issue. Everything is still in tact and the hull did not separate from the deck.

I am trying to salvage the daggerboard before ordering a new one. Filling holes and adding new gelcoat.

The rudder was something the previous owner stuck on, a clunky wooden contraption. I have a new head, just need to order a new rudder.

After that new sails and rigging.

 

[Rushman]

@JulianB … This might bring back some memories

 

[WCB]

West Coast Sailing is the only Tasar supplier at this point, to my knowledge. They supply all new boats and parts so you might want to get to know their site.

I'm with @steveo I would wet sand and buff the deck as you may be able to save all of the original gelcoat. That black moss may have extended the life of the gelcoat.

 

[JulianB]

So we had Tasar's 172, 174, 176 & 178. Phillip Rowe, Bob Hammond and John Diacopoulos as well as ourselves (owning 176) onwed the boats, that would have been 1974-5 (I was 17teen). All where built by PSI in Montreal, non were Kevlar.

They stopped Kevlar quite early because it had a "negative expansion coeficent" so in Montreal in the winter they "oil-canned" and inverted the laminate. So if it is Kevlar, depending on were it wintered it could be good or it could be not so good.

Ian Bruce had a thing about Ivory (the colour) so my guess is the deck would be Ivory.
The Orange hull, thought we only did those in Australia (Navy order) but I could be wrong.
I worked for Ian in Montreal 1977-78, so I could well have seen, delivered or even sailed that boat.
We where selling a lot of Tasars then 200-300/year, especially in UK, until Paul Davis decided to drive at 120mph in the fog and found the back of a truck! That sort of killed everything (excuse the pun) except for Australia, were Dad being Dad, it really never stopped, and JOhn Evets in Canada.

The boat, again, depends on where it was wintered, is very likely just fine. Tasar's at 25-30 years old still are sort after and win World Championships. We are still building new ones, class is enduring and likely to continue to do so.

Have fun, jB

 

[ericrayl]

Interesting, I recently bought Performance Sailcraft HIN zfs01625m79i built in 1979. PS must have changed from old format HIN to new format between the time your boat was built and mine. On mine the HIN is molded into the transom. Anway, my boat is also getting some love this winter, so happy to correspond here or off list.

My boat has been upgraded/modernized quite a bit over the years. I'll be doing a daggerboard case mod to match the way new boats are built, but not much else is needed except cleanup.

If you can't find the bits you want at West Coast Sailing, I just ordered some parts from Signal Locker in the UK https://www.tasarsailing.com/spare_parts_menu They made it very easy. For example I changed the rudder head from the original tiller hood (rectangular socket) to a laser-style hood with the sloped top, so I can use a carbon laser tiller I had sitting around.

I can see a few things different between your boat and how new boats are rigged-the style of vang cleat and the spacer blocks under them, the lack of shroud pullbacks. Tons of high res. pictures of how racers now rig their boats here: https://seantrew.smugmug.com/2022-T...J9cysJ_DD_QEEa8gf8Zs0hm0SZanAAwAQ_FmF8NHUaadM

 

[carlhartman]

West Coast Sailing is the only Tasar supplier at this point, to my knowledge. They supply all new boats and parts so you might want to get to know their site.

I'm with @steveo I would wet sand and buff the deck as you may be able to save all of the original gelcoat. That black moss may have extended the life of the gelcoat.

Already working with West Coast Sailing, but they only have so many answers. I found them while searching for a Dacron sail I could use during refurbishing.

I have purchased replacement parts. Between WCS, the manual and the Tasar Class Rules, I am fumbling through the process.
Much of the deck gelcoat are pitted down to the fiberglass/kevlar fibers. I have gelcoat to refurbish the deck, my primary concern is the color. Did they come as pure white or off white/cream color?

Thanks.

 

[carlhartman]

Interesting, I recently bought Performance Sailcraft HIN zfs01625m79i built in 1979. PS must have changed from old format HIN to new format between the time your boat was built and mine. On mine the HIN is molded into the transom. Anway, my boat is also getting some love this winter, so happy to correspond here or off list.

My boat has been upgraded/modernized quite a bit over the years. I'll be doing a daggerboard case mod to match the way new boats are built, but not much else is needed except cleanup.

If you can't find the bits you want at West Coast Sailing, I just ordered some parts from Signal Locker in the UK https://www.tasarsailing.com/spare_parts_menu They made it very easy. For example I changed the rudder head from the original tiller hood (rectangular socket) to a laser-style hood with the sloped top, so I can use a carbon laser tiller I had sitting around.

I can see a few things different between your boat and how new boats are rigged-the style of vang cleat and the spacer blocks under them, the lack of shroud pullbacks. Tons of high res. pictures of how racers now rig their boats here: https://seantrew.smugmug.com/2022-T...J9cysJ_DD_QEEa8gf8Zs0hm0SZanAAwAQ_FmF8NHUaadM

Super cool. I will check out those links.

The info I got on the HIN may be incorrect. After some research, what I found is that Performance Sailcraft used PSL until they went out of business. I found old paperwork in the boat from 25 years ago, in a plastic baggie. The first 2 letters were not legible. You may be absolutely correct. I am checking with our local authorities to see what information they may have.

West Coast Sailing has been really helpful. I contacted the current manufacturer several times without a response.

I can see where the HIN was riveted to the boat. I have been looking at pictures of older boats to get some ideas. I may get some brass strips and use punches to make a placard or have one made/engraved at a trophy shop.

Thanks for the info.

 

[carlhartman]

So we had Tasar's 172, 174, 176 & 178. Phillip Rowe, Bob Hammond and John Diacopoulos as well as ourselves (owning 176) onwed the boats, that would have been 1974-5 (I was 17teen). All where built by PSI in Montreal, non were Kevlar.

They stopped Kevlar quite early because it had a "negative expansion coeficent" so in Montreal in the winter they "oil-canned" and inverted the laminate. So if it is Kevlar, depending on were it wintered it could be good or it could be not so good.

Ian Bruce had a thing about Ivory (the colour) so my guess is the deck would be Ivory.
The Orange hull, thought we only did those in Australia (Navy order) but I could be wrong.
I worked for Ian in Montreal 1977-78, so I could well have seen, delivered or even sailed that boat.
We where selling a lot of Tasars then 200-300/year, especially in UK, until Paul Davis decided to drive at 120mph in the fog and found the back of a truck! That sort of killed everything (excuse the pun) except for Australia, were Dad being Dad, it really never stopped, and JOhn Evets in Canada.

The boat, again, depends on where it was wintered, is very likely just fine. Tasar's at 25-30 years old still are sort after and win World Championships. We are still building new ones, class is enduring and likely to continue to do so.

Have fun, jB

So very interesting. I am new to the Tasar. A Tasar virgin, if you will. I only know what I have found. My previous sailboat was multihull and larger. I am also close to 60, work out with a pro trainer. When I saw the work involved in sailing the boat, I was all in.

I am sure my friend that gave it to me had limited idea what he had. He purchased in 1998, sailed it for a season and parked it in a vacant lot here in Colorado. I had no idea what it was, until I found the original Colorado registration in a plastic baggie in the rear hold.

The deck is ivory through the entire gelcoat. It is heavily pitted in areas. The deck also has some smooth stripes and more rough areas. We want to preserve that and not simply gelcoat over it. Total Boat makes a lightly textured gelcoat for decks, the other areas I will meticulously mask off and keep that design.

The orange gelcoat is in relatively good condition. The trailer put gouges in the hull, which we are repairing. I purchased a compound from Total Boat to make repairs below the waterline, primer and then gelcoat that I can tint to match the orange or ivory color. I am modifying the trailer so the boat is suspended on wide bands that support the hull rather than resting directly on a hard surface, thus an attempt to protect the craft from further damage. (Damn, I have another sailboat that I just sold after refurbishing. The new owner passed me for the boat looking like it was new. People need to care for their stuff.)

I have inspected all of the connection points in the fiberglass. There are no cracks or separations. I have also accessed all the connection points where drilled through the hall, like all the slides. I am going to replace all the connections with some kind of backing and/or fender washers to spread the load as insurance. I also started using a technique on my last boat of purchasing 1/4" thick sheets of PVC at an industrial supply and making large backing plates of my own. They are extremely strong. The material is millable and durable.

The tiller and rudder that came with the boat I got are made out of a huge chunk of cedar. This has to be home made. I purchased new guncheons, a new laser head and will likely buy a new rudder unless I can find an older one used.

The daggerboard was totally stripped of any gelcoat on one side. A lot of scratches. The other side, I am trying to salvage what I have before buying something new, mostly as training for boat repair.

After reading up and watching many YouTube videos on the Tasar I decided to bring it back as close to original as possible.

Thank you so much for responding!

 

[Marty Gingras]

I don't know these boats but from the web they seem quite cool. Checked integrity of the trunk and the hull-to-deck joint?

 

[JulianB]

PM me and I can give you a range of contacts, here in Australia, also in the US and UK who are Tasar affidicios.
Lots of GM sail the boat, especially out of Seattle and Vancouver.
WCS owner was a mad Tasar sailor also, hence the conection.

jB

 

[carlhartman]

Super cool. I will check out those links.

The info I got on the HIN may be incorrect. After some research, what I found is that Performance Sailcraft used PSL until they went out of business. I found old paperwork in the boat from 25 years ago, in a plastic baggie. The first 2 letters were not legible. You may be absolutely correct. I am checking with our local authorities to see what information they may have.

West Coast Sailing has been really helpful. I contacted the current manufacturer several times without a response.

I can see where the HIN was riveted to the boat. I have been looking at pictures of older boats to get some ideas. I may get some brass strips and use punches to make a placard or have one made/engraved at a trophy shop.

Thanks for the info.

I found the registration docs from 1997-8, scanned, blew up and adjusted the contrast in photoshop. The first 3 characters of the HIN look like PSL to me. The first number on the form is blacked out (too many characters).

 

[Recidivist]

... Checked integrity of the trunk and the hull-to-deck joint?

I briefly owned an old Tasar, but my son stole it from me so he and his mate could sail it in the Worlds in Darwin (2005 IIRC). Contrary to the common wisdom, they sailed with a VERY tight rig, and were quite fast. That is, until the port shroud tension unzipped the hull/deck bonding and tore both hull and deck. (Julian, stop reading now).

I repaired the tears in the glass and rebonded the hull and deck together with thickened West System, but to make sure they stayed together, I bought a couple of broken carbon fishing rod blanks, cut them into short lengths and used them as dowells that were epoxied into holes drilled through the hull/deck flange about every foot/300 mm - both sides (closer together near the highest load areas). As I had to paint the repaired hull and deck, the carbon dowells were not visible after, so the legality of this fix was never queried, but there was no way the hull and deck was going to unzip again!

 

[WCB]

Already working with West Coast Sailing, but they only have so many answers. I found them while searching for a Dacron sail I could use during refurbishing.

I have purchased replacement parts. Between WCS, the manual and the Tasar Class Rules, I am fumbling through the process.
Much of the deck gelcoat are pitted down to the fiberglass/kevlar fibers. I have gelcoat to refurbish the deck, my primary concern is the color. Did they come as pure white or off white/cream color?

Thanks.

@JulianB mentioned that the cream is a legit gelcoat color for the boat. I have a 505 here in Utah, that came from Colorado as a matter of fact, that was left out like your Tasar and the gelcoat was sun-baked. I sailed the boat here and I was getting itchy as the fiberglass was starting to poke through. I decided to strip the entire deck of gelcoat, prime and paint with awlgrip. It won't be the same color but there's no market for original 505s or Tasars like there is for numbers matching cars so I'd suggest that you do what makes you happy. Pic of Waterat 505 #7772 stripped as it preps for primer.

 

[WCB]

By the way, regarding sails, just find the class form of communication via the class classifieds...etc and see who has used sails you can buy. Far easier than trying to source a dacron set.

 

[JulianB]

The std "off white" deck others wise know as Matterhorn White is 3 parts black in 1,000 parts white, just takes the sting out of the white, dose not burn your retnas out. And it's repeatable.

 

[LiquidSun]

will repair scratches, dings, etc. with boat epoxy and then spray new gelcoat on the hull

Note there is debate here if gelcoat will properly adhere to epoxy. Cool project. I hope to see more as you progress.

 

[carlhartman]

Note there is debate here if gelcoat will properly adhere to epoxy. Cool project. I hope to see more as you progress.

Total Boat makes a primer specifically for preparing epoxy to be painted with gelcoat.

 

[WCB]

With an epoxy boat, why bother with gelcoat? Awlgrip 545 primer and Awlcraft 2000 is very likely to be much lighter, which is why I'm going that direction. I'm doing the whole boat but the bottom was not sun-baked so it's a lot harder to get the old gelcoat off. I'm about 1/4 of the way through that process.

Plus, you don't need a bonding primer between gelcoat layers if the current beige deck is gelcoat. The issue is between the epoxy in the laminate and the gelcoat deck. Re-coating the deck with more gelcoat is not an issue as long as it truly is gelcoat on the deck.