1D 35 Modifications

[crashtestdummy]

Looking for information from those that have turboed a 1D. What worked? What didn’t? How did you convert to masthead halyards?

Anyone do a mast jack? Internal?

Anyone remove forestay cylinder?

Anyone set up for shorthanded racing?

Success against modern boats in turboed configuration?

Mast stiffened? Jumpers?

I have read just a kit very old thread here but those are very old and I know many are currently racing in turboed config.

 

[jackolantern]

Looking for information from those that have turboed a 1D. What worked? What didn’t? How did you convert to masthead halyards?

Anyone do a mast jack? Internal?

Anyone remove forestay cylinder?

Anyone set up for shorthanded racing?

Success against modern boats in turboed configuration?

Mast stiffened? Jumpers?

I have read just a kit very old thread here but those are very old and I know many are currently racing in turboed config.

Don’t you have enough boats?!

Looking at True and Zefiro Torna (now dire wolf) they’ve never had success against modern boats no matter how much $ was spent.

 

[WCB]

Did you buy that broken mast 1D 35 in Maine?

 

[crashtestdummy]

Don’t you have enough boats?!

Is there such a thing?

Looking at True and Zefiro Torna (now dire wolf) they’ve never had success against modern boats no matter how much $ was spent.

Agree on those two but boats out west seem to have had more success. Was it becomes of races skewed more towards downwind or better mods?

 

[crashtestdummy]

Did you guy that broken mast 1D 35 in Maine?

Yes

 

[WCB]

Yes

Sweet! Did you source a new mast already too?

By the way, did you see that I sent that guy to you for your Melges 20?

 

[jackolantern]

Is there such a thing?

Agree on those two but boats out west seem to have had more success. Was it becomes of races skewed more towards downwind or better mods?

I think part of that is the west coast races are ORR based and the IMS heritage of both the 1D35 and ORR combine to yield favorable results.

Hull has less form stability than you’d think for the era it came from. Trying to lean on the boat on a reach with a Sprit and big asym means you’re digging a surprisingly large hole for its size and weight.

 

[Black Jack]

If he is looking for a spartan downhill sled, We did ok in a refreshed 1D35 this year in the OYRA. We won the division.

View attachment 560096
View attachment 560098

Not turbo'd. Didn't really need to be running successfully in original configuration. There was some discussion of getting a 8 foot sprit over a new smaller nose as the boat is being prepared for a transpac.

Crew weight and position placement on the boat had a difference in speed.

 

[jackolantern]

To play the optimization game with you:

-Delete the hydraulic forestay and switch to a fathead with twin runners.
Move partners aft 8” and reduce sweep in shrouds accordingly. Will make mast more responsive to backstays.
-non overlapping headsails on inhaulers that fit the larger fore triangle. This will move CE forward.
-reduce mainsail foot length proportional to the area added to the top of the main in a square top. This will move CE aft and balance out the increased fore triangle area while getting you a more efficient sail shape.
-Increase stability in the keel. Lead Shoe should do it.
-Masthead kite halyard with a extra 1’ penalty pole
-Modern rudder shape sized to support rejiggered sail plan. Possibly move forward?

The hull shape wants to go vmg Windward and vmg leeward. Optimize for that. Anything else and you’re getting smoked by real sport boats like a Melges 32.

 

[Black Jack]

^ No matter what you do - you are going to get smoked by an awake Melges around the buoys.

 

[viper43]

Looking for information from those that have turboed a 1D. What worked? What didn’t? How did you convert to masthead halyards?

Anyone do a mast jack? Internal?

Anyone remove forestay cylinder?

Anyone set up for shorthanded racing?

Success against modern boats in turboed configuration?

Mast stiffened? Jumpers?

I have read just a kit very old thread here but those are very old and I know many are currently racing in turboed config.

I sail on a turboed 1D in the detroit area. the masthead conversion is a carbon fiber reinforcement sleeve epoxied on, and the sheave is part of this. the masthead (not quite to the masthead, more like 7/8 to the top) halyard is only for the turboed assym. our a2 and a3 are still on the existing halyards. no mast jack, we use a line to a winch to adjust the mast at the partners. the hydraulic forestay cylinder is how we adjust the rig and have not added checkstays yet, but are considering it to help depower the main.

 

[crashtestdummy]

Sweet! Did you source a new mast already too?

Yes

By the way, did you see that I sent that guy to you for your Melges 20?

Thank You but it sold last fall and went to Michigan

 

[crashtestdummy]

I sail on a turboed 1D in the detroit area. the masthead conversion is a carbon fiber reinforcement sleeve epoxied on, and the sheave is part of this. the masthead (not quite to the masthead, more like 7/8 to the top) halyard is only for the turboed assym. our a2 and a3 are still on the existing halyards. no mast jack, we use a line to a winch to adjust the mast at the partners. the hydraulic forestay cylinder is how we adjust the rig and have not added checkstays yet, but are considering it to help depower the main.

Sailing under PHRF? Around 25-30? Fat head main?

 

[crashtestdummy]

To play the optimization game with you:

-Delete the hydraulic forestay and switch to a fathead with twin runners.
Move partners aft 8” and reduce sweep in shrouds accordingly. Will make mast more responsive to backstays.
-non overlapping headsails on inhaulers that fit the larger fore triangle. This will move CE forward.
-reduce mainsail foot length proportional to the area added to the top of the main in a square top. This will move CE aft and balance out the increased fore triangle area while getting you a more efficient sail shape.
-Increase stability in the keel. Lead Shoe should do it.
-Masthead kite halyard with a extra 1’ penalty pole
-Modern rudder shape sized to support rejiggered sail plan. Possibly move forward?

The hull shape wants to go vmg Windward and vmg leeward. Optimize for that. Anything else and you’re getting smoked by real sport boats like a Melges 32.

Some of the above will be done but not everything! May just get it racing and put up for sale

 

[WCB]

Yes

Thank You but it sold last fall and went to Michigan

Oh good...I think the owner was just put in touch with me

 

[Peter Andersen]

To play the optimization game with you:

-Delete the hydraulic forestay and switch to a fathead with twin runners.
Move partners aft 8” and reduce sweep in shrouds accordingly. Will make mast more responsive to backstays.
-non overlapping headsails on inhaulers that fit the larger fore triangle. This will move CE forward.
-reduce mainsail foot length proportional to the area added to the top of the main in a square top. This will move CE aft and balance out the increased fore triangle area while getting you a more efficient sail shape.
-Increase stability in the keel. Lead Shoe should do it.
-Masthead kite halyard with a extra 1’ penalty pole
-Modern rudder shape sized to support rejiggered sail plan. Possibly move forward?

The hull shape wants to go vmg Windward and vmg leeward. Optimize for that. Anything else and you’re getting smoked by real sport boats like a Melges 32.

Adding a lead shoe on a Carroll built shitbox....hmmmmmmn

 

[viper43]

Sailing under PHRF? Around 25-30? Fat head main?

PHRF 36 IRC 1.1092 Fathead main.