20+ Footer - Building in Hawaii

Will1073

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Friday (in Montreal, we had -31C/-24F) we were gluing up a rudder in our fairly new construction shop and had the overhead natural gas heater coming on at least 50% of the time to keep temps in the high 60s. I guess on the plus side we did have lots of working time.
 

Jim Donovan

Anarchist
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Got a photo yesterday of my 2001 MORC 27 footer “Remedy” with a new coat of paint.

Doesn’t anyone have a different color can of paint?

REMEDY

GP 26 HULLS 7 & 10 Remedy.jpg Hulls 7 and 10.jpg

WAARSCHIP 1010 "THISTLE" Thistle.jpg

T4
T4 08Nov 22.JPG
 

@last

Anarchist
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Thanks for posting the pic of Remedy with her new paint job. New owner is a very experienced sailor on many levels from build to the boats he currently races, i.e. she should be in good hands with a fun summer in front of her. Thanks again too for all the 20 pics, it helps shorten winter a bit.
 

Jim Donovan

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Remedy is in very good hands; that's a boat designed and built for a very good friend and really happy it's found it's way back to someone who's taking care of her. Looking forward to spending some time back aboard.
 

@last

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Well it wouldn't be your first boat in the D. I remember when the 52 came out, it made it's way over to this side of the state and saw it hauled out/thought it was a good looking boat (don't think I have seen any you designed that are not).
 

Jim Donovan

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Super Bowl Sunday and out in the shed putting the final layers of carbon on the rudder "pintles"? Not sure exactly what to call these; they are the things on the rudder that attach it to the transom with the rudder pin.

Remember a conversation with Paul Bieker about building these things. His comment was, "You'd be surprised how much torsional load these things see". Added a bunch of double-bias material in the 15 ply stack. Will split the laminate down the middle and glue the two pieces to the rudder head; fair and then cover with a layer of DB over the entire rudder head.

Rudder Pintles.jpg

I had shortened the rudder oven for the bulb, and made a modification so it could be used to cure the rudder head. This cardboard box has been a lifesaver.

Rudder Oven 1.jpg
Rudder Oven 2.jpg
 

Jim Donovan

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Keel fin to bulb connection is 98% done; added a fillet to the fin where it plugs into the bulb.
It'll be be super easy to fair this perfectly to the bulb after final attachment. 20 Bulb Fin Fillet 1.jpg

Just a couple spots in the primer that need a tiny amount of filler; will take care of that when I fill the bolt recesses on the bottom of the bulb; just can't do "as is"!

20 Bulb Fin Fillet 2.jpg
 

Jim Donovan

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Any suggestions re: what color to paint the bulb?
I've got a bunch of Stars and Stripes blue left in the can . . .

Thinking I may go for this cool copper colored VC17; we rolled a coat on the T 10 and it went on on so slick we didn't bother to sand it; sanding would just rough up the surface!

This paint turns black after a while in the water.

VC17.jpg
 

Will1073

Anarchist
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I'd go VC17, Jim. Lovely AF for fresh water. Will the boat be drysailed or spending some time sitting in the water? My only gripe with VC17 on my Shark is everytime we load it on the trailer I end up with it smearing on to my hands and clothes.
 

Sail4beer

Starboard!
Those are some nice carbon gudgeons. The pintles are the pin shaped things on the rudder that slip into the gudgeons. You may be doing a pintle rod and locking pin with gudgeons on a carbon rudder as well.

By the way, they look well made, just like all the rest, great build.
 

Sail4beer

Starboard!
My Fareast28R had a carbon fiber rudder with really thick stainless gudgeons through bolted. I couldn’t understand why all the weight would be bolted on and not laminated in with carbon instead. Price point I guess.
 

Jim Donovan

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Cut the laminate in half, sanded a few millimeters shy of final and checked the fit.

There's a single pin that fits through the boat and rudder that I'll use to align these fittings on the rudder. Under the laminate is a G10 tube with a plain bronze bushing. And, "Yes", that's probably twice as much carbon as needed; I don't like rudder problems so I stuck on as much carbon as will fit - the extra weight is negligible.

Before laminating these parts, I packed out the rudder with some plastic sheet to give about a 1mm gap for the adhesive. If you don't provide a space for the adhesive, it'll all squeeze out when you try and glue them on. The result is no adhesive = no bond.

rudderhead.jpg

Will use Proset 176/276 super-toughened which is perfect for this application.
 
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PurpleOnion

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926
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New York, NY
Readers with good memories will probably do a double take after seeing this category's winner, the Ultimate 20. Yes, there was a boat called the Ultimate 20 in last year's contest, too. But after presenting their prototype for last year's judging, the creators at Ultimate Sailboats International went back to the drawing board and produced a complete overhaul- a new boat by the same name.
...
Naval architect Jim Antrim consulted on the make over. Eventually the hull was lengthened about 9 inches in the stern, the bow knuckle was softened slightly and the freeboard increased. The keel was redesigned and the rig enlarged.
 

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WCB

Super Anarchist
4,735
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Park City, UT
Readers with good memories will probably do a double take after seeing this category's winner, the Ultimate 20. Yes, there was a boat called the Ultimate 20 in last year's contest, too. But after presenting their prototype for last year's judging, the creators at Ultimate Sailboats International went back to the drawing board and produced a complete overhaul- a new boat by the same name.
...
Naval architect Jim Antrim consulted on the make over. Eventually the hull was lengthened about 9 inches in the stern, the bow knuckle was softened slightly and the freeboard increased. The keel was redesigned and the rig enlarged.
I think that you're in the wrong thread
 
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