20+ Footer - Building in Hawaii

[Jim Donovan]

No problem - Jim Antrim is a friend; Eva and I built most of his own boat.

 

[Jim Donovan]

We had two days in a row of 50ish weather which has brought on the second season in Vermont; "Mud". Careful route planning is required to avoid loosing a shoe in the muck.


No worries, the thermometer is headed south and we'll wake up to freezing rain and then a hard freeze (12 F) Saturday morning = frozen/slippery mud.

The "weather window" I've been waiting for to shift a few boats out of the shed so I can get the 20 elevated and fit the keel and rudder is not happening. But it's the middle of February and normally it'd be a blizzard outside. I washed the truck today in the "sunshine".

 

[WCB]

We had two days in a row of 50ish weather which has brought on the second season in Vermont; "Mud". Careful route planning is required to avoid loosing a shoe in the muck.
View attachment 575241

No worries, the thermometer is headed south and we'll wake up to freezing rain and then a hard freeze (12 F) Saturday morning = frozen/slippery mud.

The "weather window" I've been waiting for to shift a few boats out of the shed so I can get the 20 elevated and fit the keel and rudder is not happening. But it's the middle of February and normally it'd be a blizzard outside. I washed the truck today in the "sunshine".

I used to live in a log cabin one mile up a dirt road in Middlesex, VT. In the Spring, mud season was a "treat". I had an S10 Blazer and it would get tugged from side to side as I went up and down the road.

 

[solosailor]

My Fareast28R had a carbon fiber rudder with really thick stainless gudgeons through bolted. I couldn’t understand why all the weight would be bolted on and not laminated in with carbon instead.

Well there is a concern of a built up laminate to pin the rudder to would get delaminated as it's only attaches to the outside skin layer. Even some nice carbon gudgeons I've seen are bolted in place to carry the load all the way through.

 

[Irrational 14]

Waterat on a C32. Prepreg gudgeons with oil impregnated bronze bushings.
I was originally using a pin mount (saddle at top would lock pin) but switched to bolts.

 

[Jim Donovan]

Larry makes some pretty rudders

 

[Jim Donovan]

-

 

[Sail4beer]

That could sell as art, so you should copyright it! Seriously. I’m just using it for a few days if you don’t mind.

 

[Jim Donovan]

great idea and probably a better business than yacht design!

and sure go ahead and use it for a few days Sail 4

 

[Jim Donovan]

Well there is a concern of a built up laminate to pin the rudder to would get delaminated as it's only attaches to the outside skin layer. Even some nice carbon gudgeons I've seen are bolted in place to carry the load all the way through.

Had a rudder I built literally fall off the transom of my friends boat the first 5 minutes of use.
REALLY embarrassing. The gudgeons glued onto the transom let loose; suspect an old tube of glue was the culprit. Bolts were the solution to that problem.

If your laminate's any good, you shouldn't have to worry about delams.

The biggest concern with glued-on fittings is having them peel off the rudder. The toughened adhesives seem best at preventing this; they're a bit more flexible/less brittle.

The easiest way to prevent peel failures is with a fastener or two; they'll prevent the peel failure. That's exactly how I'm going to attach my rudder gudgeons; I'll use a couple small flat-head screws to hold the parts in alignment while the adhesive sets, and these will stay in the part.

 

[Crash]

13 days and counting with no update. Hey Jim, where'd you go?

 

[Varan]

Snow, I suppose. Cool boat though.

 

[LucaHynnek]

Snow, I suppose. Cool boat though.

Lots of it this past weekend in VT

 

[JulianB]

We had two days in a row of 50ish weather which has brought on the second season in Vermont; "Mud". Careful route planning is required to avoid loosing a shoe in the muck.
View attachment 575241

No worries, the thermometer is headed south and we'll wake up to freezing rain and then a hard freeze (12 F) Saturday morning = frozen/slippery mud.

The "weather window" I've been waiting for to shift a few boats out of the shed so I can get the 20 elevated and fit the keel and rudder is not happening. But it's the middle of February and normally it'd be a blizzard outside. I washed the truck today in the "sunshine".

You should come down under, 32c today!

 

[WCB]

Miami, FL was just fine at 30c last week! But then I got home to lots more snow.

 

[Jim Donovan]

the 20 has been locked in a garage most of the winter waiting for shed space.

In the meantime I've been getting the Atlantic cleaned up for racing this year; 50 years of paint flaking off every surface in the cockpit, new toe-rails, fresh varnish, etc. (I'll post some photos later).

Also developed a 3D sail plan for the 90 footer; decided to go a bit further and make a pretty picture:

 

[Sail4beer]

You’ve been busy!!

 

[Jim Donovan]

Had a few stellar days here; been sunny and in the 80s in mid April?

Shifted some boats around and the 20 is back in the BIG shed and up on the high cradle.
Final fit for keel fin and rudder on the short list (finally!).

 

[Jim Donovan]

And while the 20 waited, the Atlantic got some attention . . .

Last November we looked over Transit and discussed preparing for the 2023 sailing season; it was obvious it needed some TLC.


Toe rails and coamings were “tired”, so they were removed for refinishing. Coamings were repaired, holes plugged, sanded and sealed before reinstall. Toe rails were beyond help and were replaced with identical. Floorboards came out and were disassembled for sanding and refinishing (oiled).



Cockpit paint was bad to horrible, so a long week of sanding removed the flaking layers, revealing an extremely lumpy (and colorful) surface.

Some of the cockpit knees had been hacked at over the years; these were rebuilt to original, sail friendlier condition.

 

[Jim Donovan]

Cheese-grater non-skid came off with the rest of the the cockpit paint, and will be replaced with 2.5mm EVA decking from my friends at Raptor Deck.



Small amount of micro-balloon filler applied to the topsides to provide a smooth surface for the EVA decking, and coats of Awlgrip primer applied to seal all surfaces.






Bilge coated with epoxy bilge paint.

Rolled some grey primer to seal the old sanded-off non-skid surface; the EVA is about an inch bigger all around than the grey paint which explains the crappy masking job

Surfaces not painted with bilge paint or covered with EVA will get a coat of Awlgrip topsides paint, flattened a bit so it’s semi-gloss.