Hmm… okay I think I understand what needs to happen. The pump is 20W 110V. So the A/C unit and the pump would need to be on the two breakers in the box (Blue Sea 3118). And the main load can just go directly to the 30A existing panel.If running is 11A then 20A should be fine. For motor loads you size a circuit breaker between 175% and 250% of the FLA assuming full voltage (across the line) starting. A 20A is right around 180%. If it is soft start, even better. 30A would be over 250% and might not protect the unit or wiring properly and would violate NEC. If you are concerned about nuisance tripping, you could split the difference with a 25A.
When you plug into shore power they prevent your boat from eating away nearby boats anodes. You are a bad neighbor without one. You could be eroding another boat's prop.What do they actually do? The articles I’ve read talk about electrocuting someone in the water. Give me a break. No one swims near this pier.
20W at 110 is tiny. 0.18A. That could go off spare on the main panel if you have one and then you can keep it per your sketch.Hmm… okay I think I understand what needs to happen. The pump is 20W 110V. So the A/C unit and the pump would need to be on the two breakers in the box (Blue Sea 3118). And the main load can just go directly to the 30A existing panel.
It is probably OK to use a 30 A breaker to the HVAC (as long as the wire can handle 30 A). If you add up all the breakers on a panel, they are often > the main breaker, at least in domestic AC systems. I am not up on ABYC, etc.Okay I’ve thought more about this and I don’t think I need both 240 legs because that’s 100A of 120 which is way more than I need. Instead, I would use Blue Seas 3118 breaker and box (https://www.bluesea.com/products/31...C___50A_ELCI_Main_-_2_blank_circuit_positions) which has two extra breaker positions. Does this make sense? Sorry about the drawing. I left off the wiring for the reverse polarity indicator. The diagram for the box is here: https://d2pyqm2yd3fw2i.cloudfront.net/files/resources/instructions/980009850.pdf
I am not sure how the ELCI breaker would connect to the other two breakers so that part of the drawing is probably wrong.
Also I suppose the HVAC breaker could be 30A as well, I don’t know what the correct breaker size is for a startup draw of 17A.
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I don’t understand why having unprotected breaker spots would be a selling point. Seems like they just had a box with extra space in it after installing the breaker.No buss bars in the box. The 2 blanks are for 125/240v wiring. everything on the load side is elci protected, you could possibly add branch breakers and connect to main breaker load side within the box and have them elci protected but there's not a lot of room in the box for extra wiring.
Best would use separate breaker or at main panel.