If your tooling is made with 35-40kg tooling board be very careful of trying to coat it in epoxy. The closed cell nature of PU and epoxy tooling board means it doesn't really absorb anything, definitely not 2-3mm of depth like MDF. If you want a buffable gloss finish just go straight to paint. In that density range you can also just start applying mold release like freekote 770 or start with a mold sealer and then freekote. Another option for guaranteed release is to put down teflon release film. In my experience while not cheap and ends up with a distinct but subtle texture it tends to result in the least amount of pinholes whether doing wet laminate or prepreg and is also the quickest of the three options. If you go that route it's good to do a 30 minute vacuum debulk after putting it down. The number of parts your looking to get out of the tool is also a factor.Bit more time, less flippant answer, I belive it's High Density Tooling Board, it's design to cut very cleanly and that it has. I will give them a coat of thinned epoxy, which I expect to penetrate 2-3mm, and then a epoxy primer which I will wet & dry and polish and I will work off that surface. Probably 2 days work, moulds will be good for 10 pulls probably. When I get to it very happy to explain the whole process. The fin (keel) mould is 400mm over length, so I can play with longer fin lengths if I or someone else wants to.
They are heavy, I can just lift 1/2 of the fin mould, my guess is it's 35-40kgs.
I can do that, but probably the other side of Easter.Heya JB - can you take a progress pic or three from a bit back from the boat so we can get a sense of how she looks proportionally/ overall? The last ones were in the shed and much progress made!!!
Looking forward to catching up at some point - its been a crazy year!
Been a very long time since someone called me young so thankyou.Happy B-day young man; I'm only a couple months ahead of you - going to the beach on my B-day!
What you are looking at is the internal baffel, it is structual in that it carries rig tension & torque. It has been sanded and undercoated, but all the Vee-cleat will come off and a bit more attention will be paid to the surface, but in no way do I expect it to be pristine.It's very nice to see the somewhat rough looking appearance of the fabrics!
I take it this is a case of not bothering with work or weight to get a smoother finish when its all about function here? I like that practical approach.
Also just neat to see the foam tape method you described earlier in action. Pictures make visualization easier and it is something I've committed to memory for future endeavors where I am sure it will come in handy!
Getting ready for completing that 65th lap around the sun in a few weeks; afraid there's a shop full of work before I get to finally relax :blink: .Been a very long time since someone called me young so thankyou.