justsomeguy!
Super Anarchist
Neighbor hoped to ID. I don't know.
Anyone know what brand this cutlass bearing is?
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justsomeguy!
Super Anarchist
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks. Hopefully others will chime in, but those are the letters I was trying to remember.
See Level
Working to overcome my inner peace
Yup, PYI's PSS shaft seal
SloopJonB
Super Anarchist
Is only a stuffing box with packing a cutless bearing?
I thought that was a generic "Kleenex" name for shaft seals.
silent bob
Super Anarchist
One night during a Broadway performance, the curtain suddenly came down and the stage manager stood before the audience.
"I'm sorry," he said, "but we have to stop the show. The leading man just died!" After a gasp from the crowd, a little old lady in the balcony shouted, "Give him an enema!"
"Madam, maybe you didn't hear me! The man is dead!"
"Give him an enema!" she velled again.
"Are you crazy or something?" retorted the stage manager. "The man is dead.
An enema can't help him!"
"It couldn't hurt!"
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Working to overcome my inner peace
NaClH20
Semper ubi sub ubi
^^^^^ what he said. The set screw on the stainless stator are known to slip time to time, and the easiest work around is to just clamp an anode on there as a backup. Usually use the donut type rather than the football type, but end result is the same.
SloopJonB
Super Anarchist
Why not just put a hose clamp there and save the rotational weight of the zinc?
00seven
James "Grumpy" Bond
Balance
Grizz
Beats the crap out of me
I think the manufacturer does not recommend using a zinc as a retainer, since it may erode. At least that was the case when I spoke with their tech folks a few years ago.
justsomeguy!
Super Anarchist
- Thread starter
- #13
Okay, use two clamps opposed.
SloopJonB
Super Anarchist
I doubt the weight of a hose clamp screw will have any effect at the speeds a diesel shaft turns.
The set screws and keys on couplings are seldom balanced and they weigh a lot more than a hose clamp.
Vaeredil
Anarchist
Some people seem a little confused on terminology. The picture is indeed a PYI dripless shaft seal.
A cutless bearing is the finned rubber sleeve that a prop shaft goes through, either in the hull or a prop shaft strut. Here's a picture.
A cutless bearing is the finned rubber sleeve that a prop shaft goes through, either in the hull or a prop shaft strut. Here's a picture.
SloopJonB
Super Anarchist
I used a hose clamp on mine after the stainless collar slipped forward and started sinking the boat.
Given the mass and size of the prop blades a hose clamp screw on one side has neg. effects on shaft balance.
Shaft couplings are not evenly distributed in weight but nobody worries about them.
Given the mass and size of the prop blades a hose clamp screw on one side has neg. effects on shaft balance.
Shaft couplings are not evenly distributed in weight but nobody worries about them.
Hitchhiker
Hoopy Frood
Love me some ported and polished couplings. Saves wear on the catastrophic converter.
SloopJonB
Super Anarchist
True but they could easily be unbalanced by the gram or two of unbalance a hose clamp would introduce.
We aren't talking about an 8000 RPM engine here.
