Anyone know what brand this cutlass bearing is?

Zonker

Super Anarchist
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Symmetric about 2 axes yes, but not EVENLY distributed.

Look at the mass along these 2 planes. About 1/2 the mass.

1674688335485.png
 

NaClH20

Semper ubi sub ubi
Johnson uses the spelling "cutless" for their product, whereas the traditional spelling is "cutlass'.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
But thanks to all.
Aktchually, it is, to be perfectly pedantic, a “cut less” bearing. Comparatively to the wood bearing it replaced, it “cut less” of a groove in the shaft. I think it was water lubricated mining pump shafts, originally. This is of course by memory and I’m too lazy to google it. To go back to the beginning of the thread, the fitting being discussed is, as has been pointed out, a shaft seal and does not perform the function of a cutless bearing at all. Incidentally, in the original photo that hose clamp around the carbon seal on the bellows shouldn’t be there, I don’t think. Should be a fitting for a water injection line there, or at least a vent line for displacement hulls. Though dripless, it’s still a water lubricated seal and it’s gonna wear out without the proper install
 
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justsomeguy!

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Aktchually, it is, to be perfectly pedantic, a “cut less” bearing. Comparatively to the wood bearing it replaced, it “cut less” of a groove in the shaft. I think it was water lubricated mining pump shafts, originally. This is of course by memory and I’m too lazy to google it. To go back to the beginning of the thread, the fitting being discussed is, as has been pointed out, a shaft seal and does not perform the function of a cutless bearing at all. Incidentally, in the original photo that hose clamp around the carbon seal on the bellows shouldn’t be there, I don’t think. Should be a fitting for a water injection line there, or at least a vent line for displacement hulls. Though dripless, it’s still a water lubricated seal and it’s gonna wear out without the proper install
No stranger to pedantics. The owner didn't seem all that excited to do the research needed (or the enema joke). I'll light a fire under him.
 
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Vaeredil

Anarchist
The original PYI seals did not have vents, one was supposed to "burp" them after re-launching
You can still purchase some seals that use this ventless method, as long as you stay under 12 knots (according to PYI instructions at least).

For over 12 knots PYI reccomends a positive water pressure flow to the seal, taken from a "T" before the exhaust water injection I believe.


Freja II has a Volvo dripless shaft seal that is exceedingly simple, that you must burp after launching. No vent.
 

Leeroy Jenkins

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You can still purchase some seals that use this ventless method, as long as you stay under 12 knots (according to PYI instructions at least).

For over 12 knots PYI reccomends a positive water pressure flow to the seal, taken from a "T" before the exhaust water injection I believe.


Freja II has a Volvo dripless shaft seal that is exceedingly simple, that you must burp after launching. No vent.
what happens in the (unlikely) event that bellows is torn?
 

Zonker

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what happens in the (unlikely) event that bellows is torn?
LOTS of water comes in when the stainless collar slips.

If you do get a torn bellows I'd be in there with rags and grease to fill the gap between the shaft and the stern tube. Water pressure will be fighting you. Have a punch or bolt and a hammer to drive the rags in tight.

You want to slow down the water ingress so your bilge pump can keep up.
 

Leeroy Jenkins

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LOTS of water comes in when the stainless collar slips.

If you do get a torn bellows I'd be in there with rags and grease to fill the gap between the shaft and the stern tube. Water pressure will be fighting you. Have a punch or bolt and a hammer to drive the rags in tight.

You want to slow down the water ingress so your bilge pump can keep up.
Exactly. Imagine getting into that space to swing a hammer. I prefer a traditional stuffing box.
 

SloopJonB

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LOTS of water comes in when the stainless collar slips.

If you do get a torn bellows I'd be in there with rags and grease to fill the gap between the shaft and the stern tube. Water pressure will be fighting you. Have a punch or bolt and a hammer to drive the rags in tight.

You want to slow down the water ingress so your bilge pump can keep up.
I do it by sticking with conventional stuffing boxes.
 

herzogone

New member
what happens in the (unlikely) event that bellows is torn?

Water comes in! Replacing bellows is recommended on a schedule by PYI

LOTS of water comes in when the stainless collar slips.

If you do get a torn bellows I'd be in there with rags and grease to fill the gap between the shaft and the stern tube. Water pressure will be fighting you. Have a punch or bolt and a hammer to drive the rags in tight.

You want to slow down the water ingress so your bilge pump can keep up.

We experienced a bellows rupture a few years back with our old boat. It was a PYI PSS as shown (low speed, no water line). The bellows was past the 10 year mark. We had installed it, but failed to remember to replace the bellows on schedule. Luckily, we were wintering in a shallower slip than usual so the boat rested on the bottom after only about 1 foot of flooding. Thankfully, the club steward noticed the boat riding low before the tide came in, called us, and got pumps going. We replaced the PSS with a traditional stuffing box in-water. I dove on it and placed Stay-Afloat putty in the gap between the prop shaft and tube on the outside. Friends inside doing the replacement reported just a trickle. Took a video:

 
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