B&G H2000 Setup Memory

[Blizzard]

The boat has B&G H2000 w/ performance processor. We added a clinometer for heel a few years ago, and another for trim last year.

When we fired up the system today, the heel sensor did not work, but trim worked fine. I checked CalVal for the heel sensor, and it was on the wrong “type” to denote the sensor for heel. After setting correctly, it worked fine for the morning.

Went out sailing for the evening, and the value was off at startup. After resetting the value, it worked for a while before shutting off - though the entire system remained on.

Any ideas why I’m losing the sensor value, even while powered up and sailing? Both clinometers worked last year without trouble.

 

[LeCanard]

First of all, figure out if it is a sensor problem or the processor. Easiest done by temporary switch heel and trim inputs to see if the same sensor or the same input shuts down.

 

[toddster]

I have no solution, but have noticed some similar problems with the H2000. (I've been living aboard and running it almost continuously for the last eight months.) The depth calibration has spontaneously reset to some improbable value twice. Resulting in the waving dashes "no depth" display. What if other calibration values reset themselves? Critical data might be trash! About once a week, the H2000 simply shuts down. Heat??
I haven't got anything out of the old ultrasonic speed sensor, unless the water is really muddy. But that might be a separate problem. PO said "it used to work."
It's got me thinking that H2000 might be on its last legs and and it might be time to start thinking about new stuff. Might even purchase new through-hull sensors and keep them in the spare parts stock, so they're ready whenever the next haul-out occurs.

 

[LeCanard]

Backup batteries might need to be replaced.

 

[Blizzard]

First of all, figure out if it is a sensor problem or the processor. Easiest done by temporary switch heel and trim inputs to see if the same sensor or the same input shuts down.

Great idea, thanks.

Turns out, it may have been a dirty connection. I switched the inputs, and both worked for several hours.

 

[LeCanard]

Pre-solded wire ends? Those should be banned for eternity. Cut them all off and simply connect the copper to the screw terminals. Alt. use crimp ends to make it easier to reconnect next time.

 

[Blizzard]

Pre-solded wire ends? Those should be banned for eternity. Cut them all off and simply connect the copper to the screw terminals. Alt. use crimp ends to make it easier to reconnect next time.

That’s correct, but only on the one that continued to work. Most everything else in the system is bare wire. These stay connected in the off season.

Any ideas for connectors to use for mast instruments? We have just been using bare wire screw connectors, and trimming back as needed. But something more permanent would be pretty slick.

 

[El Borracho]

That’s correct, but only on the one that continued to work. Most everything else in the system is bare wire. These stay connected in the off season.

Any ideas for connectors to use for mast instruments? We have just been using bare wire screw connectors, and trimming back as needed. But something more permanent would be pretty slick.

At the mast step? Crimps screwed to a marine terminal strip. Soaked with dielectric grease, or whatever, especially where the insulation ends. Bcuz fiddling with fancy connectors in the bilge while underway is zero fun. Attempt drip loops, mounting in a dry airy spot. Avoid boxes or wrapping or heatshrink, IMO, bcuz they seem to trap water that might better simply drain away. Getting fancy also slows the inevitable future repair.

Tinned wire is good, but rare. Yes, soldered wire ends are suspiciously near many failures.

 

[Blizzard]

At the mast step?

Yes, and this system has worked OK for a long time. The wire travels through the head, and connects directly to the processor. So luckily, no connection submerged in bilge water.

Also, where 4 x 20/20's are connected through the hard rubber mast boot at the deck. Each year, 4 sets of wires are taped and crammed through the boot to a screw connector. I am imagining a universal waterproof multi-pin connector, which would have to remain installed in the boot.

Seems easy at dry dock, but repair under way is a valid concern.

 

[LeCanard]

I used Bulgin Mini Buccaneer connectors for MHUs and 20/20s. Although, they need soldering.