mexican
Super Anarchist
Anyone able to steer me in the direction of a winch service manual for a Barlow 3 speed automatic sheet winch (no self-tailer) or an equivalent guide which would do the job?
Barlow 3 Speed Automatic
- Thread starter mexican
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Ocean View
Member
SloopJonB
Super Anarchist
If you have more than one of them, just service them one at a time - you'll have the other as a reference if you get stumped on reassembly. It can be a bit intimidating when you first pop the drum off but take a variety of pics and get started - they are simpler than they look and in my experience things only fit one way.
It worked fine for me on a pair of Barient 736 3 speed self tailers. I had the documentation like an exploded diagram but I found it didn't help - too small.
It worked fine for me on a pair of Barient 736 3 speed self tailers. I had the documentation like an exploded diagram but I found it didn't help - too small.
El Borracho
Verified User
The worst that can happen is easily preventable: Place some towels, or something, to catch any loose parts that try to jump into the sea. Bearings falling out of the lifted drum are popular swimmers.
The parts are usually weird enough that a winch only goes together one way. Shaft size, gear diameter, ratchet direction.
One 3-Speed Barlow I serviced had one gear that could fit either way. A boss on one side and a raised ring on the other. Inspection of the worn mating surface was a guide.
The springs on pawls have a definite right way around.
Take pictures while disassembling.
Expect to make a few tries. Don't try it on a race morning. Allow no left over parts.
I would just go fo it. One at a time.
LionessRacing
Super Anarchist
Take a cardboard box, and cut out a circle the diameter of the base. Place over winch, with a towel or mat to reduce bounce height.
SloopJonB
Super Anarchist
For a three speed winch, I'd dismount it and take it home to service. You'll still need to take the drum off first to access the mounting bolts so Daddle & Lion's advice still applies but they take quite a while to strip, clean, inspect, lube & reassemble so it's nice to have them indoors.
Plus you get to check the deck penetrations and reseal the bolts properly.
By the way, use white lithium grease on them - not water pump grease or the ridiculously overpriced "winch grease" from the OEM's.
White lithium is much nicer and cleaner stuff - it has a texture similar to stiff yogurt and it won't dry to a crust that has the be scraped & wire brushed off.
Plus you get to check the deck penetrations and reseal the bolts properly.
By the way, use white lithium grease on them - not water pump grease or the ridiculously overpriced "winch grease" from the OEM's.
White lithium is much nicer and cleaner stuff - it has a texture similar to stiff yogurt and it won't dry to a crust that has the be scraped & wire brushed off.
Alcatraz5768
Super Anarchist
If you want quick and dirty, lift the drum off, spray brake clean into all the bearings, etc, have heaps of paper towels available then spray the whole thing down with Motorcycle teflon chain lube. Works remarkably well.
SloopJonB
Super Anarchist
A friend of mine who worked in the bearing industry for 25 years said to NOT use Teflon lube on caged roller bearings. Apparently the stuff is so slippery that the rollers tend to skid instead of rolling.
Alcatraz5768
Super Anarchist
Good info, i used it for about 3 years and didnt notice anything adrift, but i may just have been lucky.
