Two areas stand out to me.View attachment 541872
I'm wondering what I can do to improve performance on my big liveaboard cruiser, pictured above. I recently sailed to the US for the wooden boat festival in Port Townsend Washington from Victoria, and even with a pretty clean hull (free dove on it for 4 or 5 hours total to get everything as scraped off as possible) and good wind, she has been acting like a pig.
Can't seem to get her above 5.5 knots upwind under sail, even in good wind, eventually it pipes up enough that it's time to reef and still I won't break that. Really would think I can get at least 6+ on this kind of waterline and a decent sail plan. 55-60 degree tacks on a good day. I can't use the (full size) tiller and have to use the hydraulic wheel as the weather helm is very high, to the point where even with the outhaul and halyard tension high to flatten the sail I have to ease it to the point of luffing to get anything close to reasonable forces at the helm. The rudder is always about 7-9 degrees to windward or more to counteract that, which isn't helping at all.
I'm sure some or most of it is fixable or "user error".
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Don't usually use the staysail inshore because I am almost always singlehanded.
She's definitely in cruising trim, with all kinds of spares I need and some that I don't, but I really question how much that makes a difference on a 35' boat with a nominal 17,000 lb displacement. I am considering getting rid of the entire stern pole arrangment (dinghy sits on cabintop forward of the mast), as at it currently holds is a defunct radar and a very old wind gen that would be better replaced with some solar panels down low. Possibly the Bimini as well, as I only use it when at anchor anyhow and it could be replaced with a Sunbrella boom tent to similar effect for those instances. I figure possibly all that windage at the end of the boat and the weight up high is contributing to the weather helm problem?
I'm currently unable to rake the mast more forward due to running out of room on the turnbuckles in the jib furler, and there's already noticeable prebend that I haven't changed, as that should flatten the main more. Any suggestions would be lovely!
Attached are some pictures sailing. I do love this boat but I hate turning on the engine every time I sail upwind. My last boat was a Ranger 29 I took to the Alaskan border and back solo, and I'd love to make this one manageable and sailable in even a similar way. Freja is a good home but so far at least not the best sailing boat.
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2. Aero hamper: you have (too much) running rigging hamper, and some in the transom area: gizmos, aerials, ... that you could reduce. Think of your deck and space above it as an airplane's fuselage.
1. Casual sailors and many cruisers, even some racers, believe that deck sweeping 150% genoas are for racing rule advantage. But, in spite of the fwd visibility obstruction (many class racers have windows in the foot, even the deep foot of a mainsail), those genoas seal much of the loss of lift(for the WHOLE rig) due to pressure differential escaping/dying below the high foot of a genoa or self-tending jib (and the high boom, which upwind, may effectively leave 5+ feet unsealed below it. If they were on a jetliner missing the first 5-10 ft of wing skin just outboard of the fuselage, they might try to get off before it took off. A sail does not need to touch the deck to seal, close is good.
This loss below the sailing rig about doubles the nominal induced drag of the rig, which is the largest component of the rig's drag.
At the peak of the rig there's not as much that can be done to reduce tip losses. Sails $$ with high, fat, properly shaped, batten-supported mainsail (jibs $$ too) roaches can help some.
Aside: the usual - clean bottom especially the keel. Don't pinch even if it seems too far off the wind. Get the self-tacking inner jib down hard on the wind.