Changing engine key switch ignition to push-button

[Jud - s/v Sputnik]

I want to remove my key switch and change it to a push button start.  The engine panel is low-ish, just to the side of where you access the nav table, at foot level, and I’m always paranoid that someone’s gonna kick or bump  the key and break something.  As well, the panel is just above the hatch to the ice chest, so it’s somewhat in the way when opening the hatch.  I’m going to change the on-off toggle switch for panel lights to a push button as well - same reasons.

For the panel lights, I’ll use a standard Blue Sea on-off push button switch, part # 4162.  

For the engine ignition, how do I do this?  I’m not quite grasping this!  My key switch has three positions, like most others, I assume : off - on (power to low oil pressure alarm/gauges) - momentary on to crank

Do I still need an on/off switch of some sort (button or rocker) for power to a momentary switch (for cranking)?  (If so, then the trick is to choose a low-profile switch or button, and locate it on the instrument panel higher up, where it can’t be accidentally be kicked/bumped.)

 

[IStream]

They make off-on-(on) toggle switches that do exactly what your keyswitch currently does. You just need to know how many poles and how much current it needs to handle before you choose one.

 

[phill_nz]

need a pic of the back to give you an idea how many switches you will need

you can get ... off- on - mom on

but an off on and a separate mom on is usually easier and better

looks plenty of room for another switch position

and if you dont like things sticking out you might want to replace that toggle with a rocker

 

[slug zitski]

I want to remove my key switch and change it to a push button start.  The engine panel is low-ish, just to the side of where you access the nav table, at foot level, and I’m always paranoid that someone’s gonna kick or bump  the key and break something.  As well, the panel is just above the hatch to the ice chest, so it’s somewhat in the way when opening the hatch.  I’m going to change the on-off toggle switch for panel lights to a push button as well - same reasons.

For the panel lights, I’ll use a standard Blue Sea on-off push button switch, part # 4162.  

For the engine ignition, how do I do this?  I’m not quite grasping this!  My key switch has three positions, like most others, I assume : off - on (power to low oil pressure alarm/gauges) - momentary on to crank

Do I still need an on/off switch of some sort (button or rocker) for power to a momentary switch (for cranking)?  (If so, then the trick is to choose a low-profile switch or button, and locate it on the instrument panel higher up, where it can’t be accidentally be kicked/bumped.)

View attachment 504046

Ignition ON /OFF two position switch 

START switch  momentary 

STOP switch  momentary 

ignition on switch has a light that glows in  on position 

starts switch  is green 

stop switch is red 

This  is a common setup

switches operate relays , not the component 

Engines with glow plugs may need addition details 

 

[Jud - s/v Sputnik]

Thanks for the replies.

Thinking this through a bit more, I think I’m changing my mind on this one.  Realized that the benefits of keeping the key switch solution simpler outweigh the benefits of going keyless.

Think I’m gonna just keep the key switch and install some guards around it - little blocks of starboard as a “roof and walls” left/top/right around it.  That’ll solve the potential problem of bumping into the key and breaking it (but not solve the only minor problem of access for opening the ice chest door below, which is just slightly prevented from fully opening by the key sticking out).  
 

I’ll just change the panel lights toggle switch to a push button, but go with a simple solution for key switch.  That’s how this whole idea started, with the toggle switch for panel lights.  And the idea, only half-formed —and meanwhile interrupted by a hundred rigging and other projects over the winter— migrated like a lost juvenile salmon, over to the key switch project...up the wrong stream  

 

[SASSAFRASS]

I would recommend two switches or three if you have electric stop solenoid. Use Cole herse or similar quality. A pull switch for power on and off, super simple and robust, momentary  push button for start and or stop.  Supply fuse or breaker to pull switch, then power to panel parallel to start and stop switch.  I would use a heavier gauge run for the feed and power jumpers.  All three of these are small and easy to remote mount and don't need to go on the engine panel.  Might be a better common sense location.

 

[Jud - s/v Sputnik]

I would recommend two switches or three if you have electric stop solenoid. Use Cole herse or similar quality. A pull switch for power on and off, super simple and robust, momentary  push button for start and or stop.  Supply fuse or breaker to pull switch, then power to panel parallel to start and stop switch.  I would use a heavier gauge run for the feed and power jumpers.  All three of these are small and easy to remote mount and don't need to go on the engine panel.  Might be a better common sense location.

Thanks, Sassafrass.

No electric stop solenoid.  Manual stop.

Good point - never occurred to me to remotely mount the switches if I went that route.  Pretty easy to do - will see if I can find/think of a good location (that may be the hardest part, in fact!)

 

[Quickstep192]

Here’s a picture of mine made by AC/DC marine. 
 

It’s got off-on-start on one switch and glow-stop on the other switch. 
 

I really wish I had thought of the remote switch idea. I suppose I could wire a second set of switches in parallel at some point. 

 

[Zonker]

When the Yanmar key switch on our panel died I installed one of these + a push button to start. Felt more bad-ass

 

[IStream]

When the Yanmar key switch on our panel died I installed one of these + a push button to start. Felt more bad-ass

View attachment 504150

With that style, you really need a second one wired in series and placed more than 10 feet away for a second operator who'll toggle it at the same time you do. 

 

[hoektron]

When the Yanmar key switch on our panel died I installed one of these + a push button to start. Felt more bad-ass

ENGINE IS ARMED, YOU ARE FREE TO ENGAGE

 

[SloopJonB]

My last boat had no key for the 2GMF - just a pushbutton inside much like you propose.

I have since discovered that Yanmar keys are pretty meaningless anyway - they only have about 6 different ones. The key on my current boat - also a 2GMF - got bent just like you are concerned about.

I took it to the local Yanmar shop to get a blank for cutting and they just pulled out a matching key from their stock - no cutting required. To add insult to injury, the bent key bent back with no problem.

 

[SASSAFRASS]

When the Yanmar key switch on our panel died I installed one of these + a push button to start. Felt more bad-ass

View attachment 504150

Is that for putting the chute up, idle to rated....

 

[Mark Morwood]

Not that it really matters for panel lights, but you might want to think about a rocker switch instead of a push button switch as it is possible to see and feel what state it is in by its position.

 

[Jud - s/v Sputnik]

Not that it really matters for panel lights, but you might want to think about a rocker switch instead of a push button switch as it is possible to see and feel what state it is in by its position.

Good point - the push button switch I’d use is red LED lit when on...but good point, since won’t be too visible in daylight.  Ideally, nothing would stick out on that panel.  Panel light switch, and key switch, would be remote.  I’m gonna look into a reasonable place for this - no easy task on a 33’ boat.  Good project for best winter to pick away at next years now that most of my big offshore-related sail and rig projects are done, engine is rebuilt, etc.

More and more I like Sassafrass’s remote panel idea for buttons/switches, given where engine panel is located.  Could be quite small/compact.

 

[ryley]

I have since discovered that Yanmar keys are pretty meaningless anyway

I lost my key and found out that the key to my "fireproof strongbox" worked just fine.

 

[slug zitski]

I lost my key and found out that the key to my "fireproof strongbox" worked just fine.

It’s the water intrusion thru  the key slot into the interior of the component. that is an issue 

 

[ryley]

It’s the water intrusion thru  the key slot into the interior of the component. that is an issue 

well I sure as hell don't know what you're talking about. there is no chance of water intrusion into the interior component in my setup. My comment was simply that their keys are so shitty a cheap walmart safe key will work as well.

 

[slug zitski]