Cheap Reliable High Performance AutoPilots?

Foolish

Super Anarchist
1,737
409
Victoria, BC
Do you have any photos of the rudder sensor you could post?
Here you go. For some reason this post comes up twice, and I can't delete one without deleting the other???

tiller.jpg


Rudder Sensor.jpg
 
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El Borracho

Verified User
6,841
2,802
Pacific Rim
Anyone here want this AP. Absolutely nails the cheap requirement. Laying around the cabin unwanted. Veteran of many Mexico cruises. Worked when removed. There is an S1 computer too, but no display/button thingy for it. For the cost of shipping: 78752C5E-2F93-4F70-A2A3-44053CBD3091.jpeg
 

SailingTips.Ca

Feigns Knowledge
823
370
Victoria, BC
That looks EXACTLY like the Pelagic linear actuator!!!
After doing a bit more research, I think I'll get a Pelagic above deck linear actuator to go with the current Raymarine EV-1 / ACU-100. I'll add a Raymarine rudder angle sensor as well.
The Pelagic actuator (and apparently PCNautic) is a generic off-the-shelf part which can be sourced directly from the supplier but without Pelagic support (obviously).

IMG_3256.jpeg
 
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Chrick

New member
23
24
Chester, NS
My last boat had a tiller pilot (Raymarine, EV-100) and the control unit was over the companionway, so it wasn't possible to reach both the tiller and the controller without moving. I found it only slightly awkward - generally when the autopilot is shut down and put away it's centred, or nearly so, so I would just attach it in whatever direction it was pointing and then move forward to click on Auto and away we'd go. That few seconds of starting to steer the wrong way never bothered me much - so it may not be so bad if you decide to put the display somewhere you want vs. somewhere you think it needs to be.
 

erdb

Anarchist
786
575
My last boat had a tiller pilot (Raymarine, EV-100) and the control unit was over the companionway, so it wasn't possible to reach both the tiller and the controller without moving. I found it only slightly awkward - generally when the autopilot is shut down and put away it's centred, or nearly so, so I would just attach it in whatever direction it was pointing and then move forward to click on Auto and away we'd go. That few seconds of starting to steer the wrong way never bothered me much - so it may not be so bad if you decide to put the display somewhere you want vs. somewhere you think it needs to be.
Great thanks!
 
I like my standard size tiller controlling Pelagic on my Olson 40. Thus far, all experience is in light to moderate wind and seas, so surf max speed has been 10 knots, 8.5 knot averages.

I don't have any external signals connected to it, so I cannot use the apparent wind direction mode, hence absolutely close hauled is not practical. Footing by 5 degrees works fine.

It surfs nicely in light to moderate air and seas. I am impressed with the steering algorithm using all those MEMS sensors: steers in waves downwind like a really good helmsman, including adding in helm as the boat rolls to leeward, and backing off on the helm as the bow rises when falling off a wave.

I don't have any problems connecting the tiller pilot to the tiller. No servos or weird circuits required.

I use the Pelagic remote control only: I mounted the AP control head down below.

A spare actuator is only $400, and even an entire second system is only $950. So redundancy is easy, and I intend to just buy a complete second unit before any long passage.

I also use Foolish's approach of having a bungee cord and line as a simple and effective temporary or backup: works great close hauled to reaching, not so well downwind.

I had an Octopus hydraulic drive on an under deck quadrant, but the B&G electronics were all trash and tossed into a dumpster. I also did not notice the drag on the helm, but I did notice the limited rudder travel that made getting into and out of a slip challenging. Another disadvantage of an under deck always connected drive is that the power to engage the clutch is non trivial, about the same as the total draw of my autopilot.
 

Alaris

Super Anarchist
1,874
697
Annapolis
I’m looking for great-ish, cheap-ish and reliable. And plays well with B&G 5000 on a fast boat.
If you’ve already got B&G 5000, get the 5000 pilot. I just bought one for $1k from a B&G reseller, tested and complete. Will outperform any of the pilot computers you might find for that money (since it requires the 5000 cpu that you already have), and will talk to pretty much any drive.
 

Alaris

Super Anarchist
1,874
697
Annapolis
He is looking at the Simrad SD10 drive which is ~$1700,
If you sell brand new SD10s with Simrad's warranty @$750, let me know I have a couple of businesses that would like to buy from you. :)
If you are going to pay $2800 for a T1 or a T2 let me know..He needs a T1 if he is displacing 9000 pounds.

B&G t0 =~$1700
B&G t1= ~ $2200
B&G t2 =~ $2500
L&S are in the same price range.
If you are in the US order from the EU and the drives will be even cheaper.
You don’t need a B&G drive for a B&G pilot, FWIW
 

dreamingwet

Member
231
75
You don’t need a B&G drive for a B&G pilot, FWIW
Read my post in context, we were discussing pricing around B&G and L&S, nothing else.
:rolleyes: Really? I would have not know if you haven't told me, who would have known that you can use anything you want, or even your own fabrication.:ROFLMAO:
 

Alaris

Super Anarchist
1,874
697
Annapolis
Read my post in context, we were discussing pricing around B&G and L&S, nothing else.
:rolleyes: Really? I would have not know if you haven't told me, who would have known that you can use anything you want, or even your own fabrication.:ROFLMAO:
Many people do not know that drives are usually not proprietary and can be used with different systems. You never know who reads these threads who have been searching for answers. That’s how I found it. It’s not all about you.
 

dreamingwet

Member
231
75
Many people do not know that drives are usually not proprietary and can be used with different systems. You never know who reads these threads who have been searching for answers. That’s how I found it. It’s not all about you.
It is all about reading the thread and understanding the context before assuming.
It looks like to me it is about not assuming what others know or don’t and reading the thread before making even more assumptions 🙏
 

Maus

New member
4
2
I have been looking into their offering and dove into the code to see what options there are to tune or adapt. You can create your own version of the autopilot model to actually change downwind and upwind behaviour in tacks and gybes for example. Which I would like to do out of dislike for the behaviour of other pilots.

How are you using it?

Have you used it in a (semi-)planing sailboat, downwind spinnaker with a following sea?
On down wind courses (up to 6Bft North Sea, moderate, following seas) on manetic compass mode.

Not yet on Spinnaker conditions.
 


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