Choosing the right performance cruising cat for Uhuru.

loop

Member
85
34
farr out
I agree, they’re trying to tick all the boxes for where the market appears to be heading, a push button fully automated boat.
.
They also heard, that a stepped hull is cool and good for speed. So they designed a big lethal step into the side decks :cool:
 

smj

Member
250
190
They also heard, that a stepped hull is cool and good for speed. So they designed a big lethal step into the side decks :cool:
Yes, they flared the hulls above the waterline, but how does that make a lethal step?
 
I really like the design.
The only thing I don’t like about it is what looks to be a very low underwing clearance.
Assuming that each boat is a custom build (?) their overall weight calculation could possibly be achieved just as long as the customer doesn’t require it to include all mod cons.
 

jmh2002

Anarchist
721
584
I didn't see the underwing / bridgedeck clearance mentioned anywhere (weird?), but I did find an extra spec sheet on their website, see below.

But what I will say is that if a buyer can get past not having a 'brand new' boat, then a second hand Atlantic 55 or similar plus the cost of a refit seems like it could provide real value for some people.


 
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Zonker

Super Anarchist
10,901
7,467
Canada
It's a rendering but usually you don't do them until you have a finished 3D model to build from. Trouble is renderings can be "isometric" i.e. you are looking at from 3000 miles away, just scaled to visible or "perspective" where get converging lines. Perspective view can look nicer but distort scale. For example this is a perspective rendering of the same boat

1679810313829.png


This rendering makes it look like there is heaps of clearance. Well except the stupid centerline wave catching device. That is not really clever engineering.

1679810379785.png

This may tell the story. The person doing the rendering put the antifoul up way too high (helps disguise the high freeboard). Again it looks pretty good.

I'd ask for the clearance to the underside of that bow centerline structure when the boat is fully loaded. That's what the waves will hit first.

1679810469563.png


1679810066452.png
 
Yeah, the bottom photo that Zonker posted is what I based my low bridgedeck clearance opinion on. The amount of bridgedeck below the deck/forebeam level in that photo looks(to me) to be more like a Lagoonseque condomaran than the otherwise sexy performance catamaran in the other photos. Quite out of character to the usual good looking Dazcats.
 

loop

Member
85
34
farr out
Yes, they flared the hulls above the waterline, but how does that make a lethal step?
I think I saw a big step in the side decks in the renderings. For me that's just a disaster waiting to happen for crew needing to get fwd or aft quickly, not only on a dark and windy night.
 
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Tark1

Member
81
43
France
I guess it allows them to keep everything lower. The coach roof and therefore the boom can be lower. Keeping the COE of the main lower. Looks great and sleek from beam on.
But at the expense of waves hitting the underside earlier?
 

Tark1

Member
81
43
France

Not a cat but after lots of good info on here about power, what are peoples thaughts on this. Sure its easy to say go 110 and 220 but you would have to make sure you needed it if you are trying to build a light boat.
Lots of other good little tips about hose clamps, when double clamps are needed etc as well. And as Zonker said use those good quality ones. I like to cover them in vaseline and then wrap them in self amalgamating tape. Keeps them brand new and stops you catching the annoying bit that sticks out. Make sure the bolt is on top when they are horizontal if possible. That way if it does leak it wont rust/sieze the bolt part.
 

Tark1

Member
81
43
France
A couple of things my dad's dream cat had. A protected wheel steering that a tiller could be attatched too and sit outboard for the nice times. A simple mainsheet and traveller system that could be easily released from either/all helm positions.
A stern anchor so you could anchor stern or bow too and always face the beach. A fixed system with a windlass like on the bow, the anchor would be easily accesable so you could change it for a drogue if need be. Not much chain needed. Just a long line.
A big sail plan that is easily reduced and a good storm staysail that is acessable and easy to hoist.You will spend 90% of the time sailing in good or OK conditions. It's that 10% of the time you find out what the boat and yourself are capable of and you get into trouble.
And I am 49 so this is a whlie ago.
Weight! Weight is everything on a cat. Dont fill it full of shit and you want have to build it out of carbon. Build it out of good quality S2-glass and foam, carbon where needed and good epoxy. No point using carbon and shit epoxy, or shit carbon and shit epoxy. Specify the quality of the carbon and epoxy.
Put your dryer or washing machine on and hang on to it? Plus the weight of someone sitting on it during the spin cycele?? How much do they have to reinforce those areas. The list goes on.
 
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Dogfish

Member
333
201
Tark it's a struggle with a light boat, just look how much room those electrics take up. The longer the run the thicker the cable etc. The simple answer is do you really need it ?
 

Dogfish

Member
333
201
Well you do if you don't have all that shit onboard thats for sure. I can release from either steering position and it is sheltered. I can also stern anchor from the cockpit and I have a tall rig for light air sailing, as you say you can always reef. So I tick a few of your boxes, but I have a big anchor and a lot of chain so not so good on that one. You kind of make compromises but I guess if am been honest if I could carry more crap I probably would thats just the nature of things. You end up making the boat light so you can carry all stuff to have fun......good tender, sup's, surfboards, wingboard, diving gear never mind the essentials like food. Oh shit now I need to make the boat ten foot longer.
 

ol70

Member
113
117
HH - mostly good, but too much interior cover paneling thru out. I much prefer smooth hull interior for most of interior. Look at pics of the 60' boat above. But 44 is too short, 52 a bit big
So you should take another look at the HH if it’s mostly good for you. The new 52 is actually the exact same hulls at the old HH50…which was originally designed as the HH48 that they had to extend. It is only 48’ of waterline, so significantly smaller in length and beam than the Balance 526 and the Kinetic. Their new forward cockpit option does look interesting and much better than the old HH50 model they are retiring.
 

CapDave

Anarchist
615
710
Bermuda

Not a cat but after lots of good info on here about power, what are peoples thaughts on this. Sure its easy to say go 110 and 220 but you would have to make sure you needed it if you are trying to build a light boat.
Lots of other good little tips about hose clamps, when double clamps are needed etc as well. And as Zonker said use those good quality ones. I like to cover them in vaseline and then wrap them in self amalgamating tape. Keeps them brand new and stops you catching the annoying bit that sticks out. Make sure the bolt is on top when they are horizontal if possible. That way if it does leak it wont rust/sieze the bolt part.

Sorry, I watched the first 40 seconds and my head exploded. They're installing the inverter/chargers right over the main engine. Which runs at 180F. Oy vey iz mir.
 


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