Clean way to mount new instrument displays

ordkhntr

Member
334
21
Oregon
I am getting ready to switch out the old Raymarine I-40 instruments and am going to be replacing them with a Triton2. On the port side of the companionway, there are 2 I-40 instruments,  stacked vertically. The Tritons cut out will be much smaller than the two I-40's. What's a good looking clean way to mount the new Triton. I've seen some boats where they have put up a piece of wood as a cover/trim. Not sure I like that look. I don't really feel like trying to re-glass the holes. What other options are there for a nice looking installation?

 

longy

Overlord of Anarchy
7,443
1,560
San Diego
Covering up big/old holes you have two approaches: fill in the old holes or use cover plates. Depends on your budget/capabilities/final desired looks. Filling in holes is easy, coating the exposed new material to match the existing surrounding areas can be difficult. Gives the best "stock" look.

Cover plates give a visual separation from existing surroundings, so can be any color. Thin G-10 plate works well, easily coated, can be glued or screwed to boat. Almost any flat material can be used as a cover plate, just depends on what you want aesthetics to be.

 
610
36
A friend did some similar work on his boat. On the exterior he used some 1/8th inch (maybe a bit thicker) aluminum plate to cover the old mounting area and fit the new displays. After sizing the plate, rounding the edges, adding the needed cutout and some mounting holes, he had the plate powder coated in a red color he thought was complementary to the boat. On the interior he used an easily-removable wood panel to cover the old mounting area. It was stained to somewhat match the rest of the interior.

Ended up looking pretty good, except for the powder coating which was a shade or so off what was needed. Probably should have gone with a greyish white or similar neutral coating.

 
Electronics have rather tight tolorances and not alot of give.  Whatever you use its best to layout the new stuff on it and make off the boat.  Starboard is really easy to work with and does well with this sort of thing.  I would stick with materials that need no finish if doing a doubler, starboard or SS.

 

dfw_sailor

Super Anarchist
1,695
790
DFW
this. over and over and over is the easiest and least expensive solution.
The cheapest method I've found,  is the new part is smaller than the old part,  and if you have access to a 3d printer is a wood /petg composite.

Tough as nails,  looks decent,  no visible change in 2 years of texas sun. 

This example was $2 of filament.  

20200815_130726.jpg

 

Zonker

Super Anarchist
10,904
7,468
Canada
New instrument bezels.com

Trim cover plates cause I made an ugly hole.com

Lost my car's dummy switch cover plate.com

I think we're on to something here....as your agent I only want 3% - of the gross

 

dfw_sailor

Super Anarchist
1,695
790
DFW
New instrument bezels.com

Trim cover plates cause I made an ugly hole.com

Lost my car's dummy switch cover plate.com

I think we're on to something here....as your agent I only want 3% - of the gross
Heck you can take 10% of gross if you do all the marketing. 

But you left out the forestay retaining seat that pushes into the back of the foil joiner part.  Did a few of those last week for a friend.  Apparently they can't be found for love or money. 

 
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