Construction of a Pogo 12.50

shaggybaxter

Super Anarchist
4,338
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Australia
Our build has started on our Pogo 12.50.

.

In the hope it is of interest to some of you as well as just me. I thought I'd post some of the pictures and info on the build as we progress.

The selection criteria was we wanted something that was:

  • fast. I've done my time in the IOR stuff, I wanted something that could plane easily, and bugger the handicap rating.
  • comfortable..ish. Yes i want my wife to be comfortable, but I didn't want head linings and trimmings everywhere, mainly for serviceability.
  • safe. Can I get that as unsinkable please?
  • shorthanded capable. Yes and no, this was one of those decisions that caused the most angst. As the boat will have some corporate guest duties, we have gone for the dual wheels rather than a tiller.
  • Cat A rated.
Our short-mid term aim is for the Qld coastal stuff in year 1, working up to S2H in year 2.

We will have a learning curve to surmount, the Pogo is a bit different to our current IOR era symmetrical roly poly rides, with no backstay, no traditional vang, square top main, asymetrical kites, etc etc.

One challenge is the build is happening on the other side of the globe.

This is ultimate faith in your builder time, the good thing is we have that faith!

So, without further ado, our first pics, this is the part of the bulkheads being infused. This one is for the starboard rear cabin. Really it is the toilet/ technical area.

Build 1.jpg

You walk through the toilet area to a rear cabin, this is an area I plan to use for storage mostly.

Pic of what it should look like on completion.

Rear starboard Cabin.jpg

The foam is 20 mm and comes in denser grades where used around the structural areas like rudder posts , chainplates etc. The denser foam is surprisingly hard, you can't dint it with your fingernail even though it looks like normal foam.

And what the finished product should look like hopefully(edit...with dual wheels though) ..

That reminds me, I have to work out the hull colors (its a strip) next, which I am not good at. Any suggestions please let me know.

prototype_LARGE_t_11_1064.jpg

Hope you guys find it interesting! We're a bit like expectant fathers at the moment!

SB

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shaggybaxter

Super Anarchist
4,338
2,361
Australia
A bit more...

This is the longitudinal upper members being prepped for infusion.......

Build 2.jpg

And the lowers after infusing....

Build 3.jpg

I have to sort out the interior color as a priority, not the the hull color. This makes sense as the hull color strips are actually done as a removable sticker. Good for when its time to "repaint" I suppose.

Options on the power outlets: hmmm...I think no more than the 1 x 240V outlet in the technical area, and 2 x 12V in the front and 1 x 12V in the port rear cabin? I don't want loads of 240v cabling, but IPad and phone chargers I can never seem to have enough....but keep it simple, keep it simple.

SB

 

shaggybaxter

Super Anarchist
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Australia
Mmm.. I have a dilemma on the dual wheels. This is a shot from the back, showing a sister ship setup.

Wheels rear view.jpg

To me , from this angle the pedestal and wheel selection, and design, look in the right proportion and fit the the boat.

So far, all good.

But viewed from the front, this doesn't look so pleasing to the eye. Something looks out of place.

Wheels Front view.jpg

I am thinking two things..

Option 1: Cover the black boss of the wheel post. Is it as simple as a nice white cover over the boss that would correct it?

Option 2; Change the wheel design. Does it need something like this instead?

Carbon_Steering_wheel_for_Yacht.jpg

 

SeaWay

Super Anarchist
Why not use 12v iPhone chargers?

Seems pointless and inefficient to go from 12v DC to 240v AC then back to 5v DC

In face why hard wire an inverter at all? Most good toys can be run from 12v these days anyway.

Cheers

SW

 

Somebody Else

a person of little consequence
7,523
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PNW
Yup! You can build in cell phone and tablet chargers by modifying ultra-cheap car charger adaptors. Look for the ones that have as much plastic as possible; the cheap plated metal covers will rust in a week. If you've got reading lights in bunks, it is easy to fit one of these chargers in parallel with the light wiring.

12v-to-5v_USB_charger.jpg


 

shaggybaxter

Super Anarchist
4,338
2,361
Australia
So what is it about 'corporate guest duties' that leads to wheels instead of a tiller?
We take clients out, and you have certain clientele that love the experience but know not the first thing about a sail boat. Give them a wheel and they're grinning like they've won the lotto, whereas a tiller they are plain scared of. I know it sounds a bit money-centric, which it probably is, but if it gets people liking sailing and I keep happy customers, its a sacrifice I can make.

 

shaggybaxter

Super Anarchist
4,338
2,361
Australia
Why not use 12v iPhone chargers?

Seems pointless and inefficient to go from 12v DC to 240v AC then back to 5v DC

In face why hard wire an inverter at all? Most good toys can be run from 12v these days anyway.

Cheers

SW
Good point Seaway, good food for thought.

 

cms

Super Anarchist
You get some quite cool looking multiple socket things for cars. My wife has one that is made for the drink cup/can hole, and has phone and other type of socket. Would be easy to build in either on a vertical or horizontal surface, like outboard of the chart table.

 

Jaramaz

Anarchist
585
25
Sweden
Why not use 12v iPhone chargers?

Seems pointless and inefficient to go from 12v DC to 240v AC then back to 5v DC

In face why hard wire an inverter at all? Most good toys can be run from 12v these days anyway.

Cheers

SW

No, they can't.

PC:s / Laptops usually on 19-20 V

Phones, tablets, pads ... on USG voltage ~ 5 V.

All other voltages are conversion.

Conversion means losses.

/J

 

cms

Super Anarchist
12v to 5v is no drama.

Not just phones these days but many tablets, even powerful Windows one will charge from 12v socket.

12v to 19v for laptops etc needs a convertor, many of which are dodgy, so buy the best.

Converting 12v to 240v (or 110v US) then back to 19v is losing more.

 

shaggybaxter

Super Anarchist
4,338
2,361
Australia
Very cool, keep the updates coming.

Are you goiing with Incidences sails, or local
This was another tough call. I have a great local sail maker, but I am going with Incidence for the first set,

This was mainly due to me being a bit conservative, several aspects of the 12.50 rig and sails will be new to us, and I am conscious of the time it will take to absorb all this and dial it all in.

I just didn't want to be sitting there all the time thinking "is it the sails" whilst learning how to make it go,

I don't have many Pogo's/"insert similar design" near me to swap notes with I am afraid. There is Krakatoa II, a 2008 model Open 40 in Sydney I know of, but that's about it. Does anybody know of any others I'm not aware of?

Here's my scratchlist of the rig and sail options that are different compared to my existing boat:

No backstay/runners.

Vang's kinda weird.

Furler gennaker and solent.

Babystay and staysail

Aso.

Do sailors all have just some masochistic desire to keep learning new things? :unsure:

 
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