Corsair/Farrier Anarchy

nige

Super Anarchist
I kind of missed this thread but figured I'd share the modifications I've made to Makika (f25-c).   I've un-farriered the cockpit and removed the annoying "lid" over the huge hole that was there.  I found both to be unnecessary design choices where compromises were made.

Just finished the cockpit remodel for a race this last weekend and it is SO much nicer to race this way, feels like a sports boat.   you can stand side by side in the cockpit trimming etc with plenty of space and you can quickly pass float to float when tacking/gybing etc.     The removal of the diagonal combing means that you have a flat spot, further outboard to help from if you are helming in the cockpit which is actually passable now (typically we helm from the float).   I also removed the annoying, loose "lid" over the cabin top and its a lot sleeker now.

94A75BEF-9E18-4038-8484-FC161DDBFDE8.jpeg

IMG_9482.jpeg

IMG_9481.jpeg

 
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Wess

Super Anarchist
I kind of missed this thread but figured I'd share the modifications I've made to Makika (f25-c).   I've un-farriered the cockpit and removed the annoying "lid" over the huge hole that was there.  I found both to be unnecessary design choices where compromises were made.

Just finished the cockpit remodel for a race this last weekend and it is SO much nicer to race this way, feels like a sports boat.   you can stand side by side in the cockpit trimming etc with plenty of space and you can quickly pass float to float when tacking/gybing etc.     The removal of the diagonal combing means that you have a flat spot, further outboard to help from if you are helming in the cockpit which is actually passable now (typically we helm from the float).   I also removed the annoying, loose "lid" over the cabin top and its a lot sleeker now.

View attachment 474471

View attachment 474472

View attachment 474473
That is a sleek looking boat.  Very nice.  Did you build her?  Do you need the 3 to race? 

 
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Mizzmo

Anarchist
700
125
Monterey, CA
I love that you removed the diagonal coamings. Those are stupid. Removal would make the cockpit of the F-27 so much better. The pop top not so much, I love that. Its really nice to have standing headroom at the galley. I realize yours is a pure race boat though. 

 

nige

Super Anarchist
I love that you removed the diagonal coamings. Those are stupid. Removal would make the cockpit of the F-27 so much better. The pop top not so much, I love that. Its really nice to have standing headroom at the galley. I realize yours is a pure race boat though. 
Yeah the combings drove me nuts.     I would not remove the pop top either if I had a galley or a reason to spend more than 5 mins wanting to stand up inside.   I do cruise with my kids every now and again but its a "take a jet boil and think about the boat as a hard shell tent" kind of cruise.  

 

nige

Super Anarchist
Thats Totoro and yes they are C foils.  They look a long way back but that is the COG, light boat with long bows means the COG is pretty far aft (We moved them further aft a few years ago).

Oh, and you can't have it ;)

IMG_3594.jpeg

 

Hitchhiker

Hoopy Frood
4,684
1,321
Saquo-Pilia Hensha
It was my first time ever with the boat, but those silly trimarans weren’t an issue. Hell, we even stuck the rig in the water to slow down!  

View attachment 465849

View attachment 465850
Not sure a modified MG 30 against a couple of shorter "Silly" trimarans is a good comp. Especially if it was a windward leeward course.  

I just sea trialed a F28 yesterday with the prospective buyer in maybe 4-5 knots of wind.  We were doing windspeed with the screacher up.  Your MG 30 would be parked up!

Horses for courses.  I'm a heeler blow boter, but that F28 has got me thinking!

 

MultiThom

Super Anarchist
1,802
430
Benicia, CA
Here’s a quick and easy way to slacken/tighten your synthetic shrouds for folding on boats that require it:

https://youtu.be/M-XTyauyiJc
Personally, I'm not a fan of snap shackles holding up the mast.  But if you use a soft shackle instead...would be OK.  Issue with that system is you have to have the shroud exactly the right length so the cascade tension is exactly the amount of distance from top colligo to aft where you shackle it--but once you get them the right lengths, would be OK.  Beats the heck out of tying off the cascade over and over.  Something you "could" do instead of shackling it aft is to make a loop in the lashing line as it exits the final colligo (like a truckers hitch loop), then slip a soft shackle through the loop.  Won't fit through the colligo lashing hole (jam) so you're good to go.  When ready to fold, just pull the knot on the soft shackle to get slack, remove the shackle and pull out the loop.  Voila.  

 

SailingTips.Ca

Feigns Knowledge
823
370
Victoria, BC
Personally, I'm not a fan of snap shackles holding up the mast.  But if you use a soft shackle instead...would be OK.  Issue with that system is you have to have the shroud exactly the right length so the cascade tension is exactly the amount of distance from top colligo to aft where you shackle it--but once you get them the right lengths, would be OK.  Beats the heck out of tying off the cascade over and over.  Something you "could" do instead of shackling it aft is to make a loop in the lashing line as it exits the final colligo (like a truckers hitch loop), then slip a soft shackle through the loop.  Won't fit through the colligo lashing hole (jam) so you're good to go.  When ready to fold, just pull the knot on the soft shackle to get slack, remove the shackle and pull out the loop.  Voila.  
I think this system really has the following key concepts, which could be replaced with any device of your liking e.g. soft shackle as you noted:

  1. Stopper: Keeps the coarse lashing from releasing more than necessary to fold the boat
  2. Fine Adjustment: Allows fine-tuning of rig tension, and to compensate for any variability in the height of the upper Colligo block
  3. Quick Release: Keeps stopper in tensioned position while sailing, and enables it to be quickly freed to float to upper Colligo block to fold

AA54A459-9B34-4679-ABB6-7DCF6B87CCF9.jpeg

In this example, if the snap shackle failed or released inadvertently, the stopper would simply float to the upper Colligo fitting and the mast would cant by eight inches or so, which wouldn’t be a serious problem if you have a rotating mast on a ball. The quick release doesn’t have much tension on it, only 1/8 of shroud minus deflection angle. 

The only thing you really have to get right in terms of length is the placement of the stopper, which needs to be in the right place to allow enough slack for the boat to fold, but no more. 

One improvement I might make is to replace the fine adjustment with a block and tackle and cam cleat, which would enable more dynamic fine tuning of rig tension, kind of like the original F-27 tensioning system. 

 
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I think this system really has the following key concepts, which could be replaced with any device of your liking e.g. soft shackle as you noted:

  1. Stopper: Keeps the coarse lashing from releasing more than necessary to fold the boat
  2. Fine Adjustment: Allows fine-tuning of rig tension, and to compensate for any variability in the height of the upper Colligo block
  3. Quick Release: Keeps stopper in tensioned position while sailing, and enables it to be quickly freed to float to upper Colligo block to fold

View attachment 485561

In this example, if the snap shackle failed or released inadvertently, the stopper would simply float to the upper Colligo fitting and the mast would cant by eight inches or so, which wouldn’t be a serious problem if you have a rotating mast on a ball. The quick release doesn’t have much tension on it, only 1/8 of shroud minus deflection angle. 

The only thing you really have to get right in terms of length is the placement of the stopper, which needs to be in the right place to allow enough slack for the boat to fold, but no more. 

One improvement I might make is to replace the fine adjustment with a block and tackle and cam cleat, which would enable more dynamic fine tuning of rig tension, kind of like the original F-27 tensioning system. 
I have a block and tackle system with constrictors

http://f32thriller.blogspot.com/2018/12/canting-rig-option-setup.html

 

MultiThom

Super Anarchist
1,802
430
Benicia, CA
One improvement I might make is to replace the fine adjustment with a block and tackle and cam cleat, which would enable more dynamic fine tuning of rig tension, kind of like the original F-27 tensioning system. 
That is certainly safe enough with that stopper.  Just an aside about the F27 tensioner.  F27 has a fixed mast and the tensioner was used to bend the mast to depower or power up the mainsail.  Don't know how useful it'd be on a rotating mast--you might end up closing the slot with mast bend.

 

SailingTips.Ca

Feigns Knowledge
823
370
Victoria, BC
That is certainly safe enough with that stopper.  Just an aside about the F27 tensioner.  F27 has a fixed mast and the tensioner was used to bend the mast to depower or power up the mainsail.  Don't know how useful it'd be on a rotating mast--you might end up closing the slot with mast bend.
With a rotating mast the bend is pretty much pre-determined by the tension on the diamond wires, and the rig tension isn't going to do much to change that. 

We typically adjust the rig tension when we've been sailing in rough seas, as the pounding of the boat tends to introduce a tiny bit of slop, so we're just pulling that out so the mast doesn't flop around.  

If we're not sailing in rough seas we pretty much leave the rig tension as-is.

 
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huey 2

Super Anarchist
3,423
1,645
syd
Hello Nige,   Love seeing your projects...I had originally come across you when you were doing the Bieker Boats 35mk2 and 42....you were building the components for a baby Bieker 25  did you ever finish it.?..love Totora and Farrier  Thanks

 




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