Corsair/Farrier Anarchy
- Thread starter deminimis
- Start date
prskier17
New member
I would use the hardware under question as a 2:1 tack line unless it's easy for you to access the tack/furler connection on your sprit. Otherwise getting the sail on/off is a pain. If the furler can be connected to that Harken Classic block is basically already setup for this.
MultiThom
Super Anarchist
It is true that folks who routinely fly Zero/Screachers competitively try to find ways to add luff tension to sail higher angles with them up. However, having broken the bow off my F242 a couple times and reinforcing it with 1/4" plate Stainless and watching that stainless bend over time, it might be best to wait to use a 2:1 until it is really needed. These boats are robust, but they are still breakable.
prskier17
New member
Right, don't winch the crap out of the 2:1 tack line. The beauty of the 2:1 is that it effectively prevents rotation of the furler body although there are other options for doing that.
- Thread starter
- #146
Confession time: A week and half back we were in Hood River (windsurfing capital of the world...for a reason). Friends came by in their little monohull and wanted us to meet them out at Wells Island. Wind was up pretty good (forecast was for light winds all weekend....They lied), so only planned on motoring to the island (threading all the windsurfers and kiteboarders in the process). As a result, mistake #1, I did not have sails ready to deploy quickly. A mistake I will never make again. While motoring out of the marina, the outboard died. We were just outside the wind shadow of the marina. The wind was quickly driving our boat towards the bridge. I had a friend on the prime bulb and he said there was no pressure. Ah, fuel delivery problem. With not much time to spare I discovered that although I had opened my tank vent cap (non-EPA), I failed to open it enough (mistake #2). Many years of dirt bikes and outboards, and yet I made this bonehead move. Opened it up more, friend quickly got pressure in the bulb, the outboard started and we avoided a disaster. Yup, should have been in a position to deploy the jib, if nothing else. As I said, I will never make that mistake again. Also, I had the anchor in an ama, not in the locker (I was going to set it up once at Wells mistake #3). Locker is full of chain/rode, so I just put the anchor in the ama. I will correct this as well. The wind had increased so much we decided to just head back to the dock and drink nerve-calming beers (Smart Move #1). They worked. There. I admit it. F'd up big time. Other friends came by later, in their big Sea Ray, and asked us to join them (We did. They had lots of beer on hand.... Smart Move #2).
Loose Cannon
Super Anarchist
What could possibly be a better way to raise a kid than with an Fboat and a boston terrier. Love it!
Mizzmo
Anarchist
Glad you got it sorted before the bridge. I had a similar event where a line wrapped around the prop leaving me seconds and one chance to set the anchor before the boat would have been driven up on the on the rocks. If the anchor had not held the boat would have been a write off.
RedHerring
New member
Yup. When the main isn't up, spin halyard to the port ama, screacher halyard to the starbord ama, tightened enough to remove/dampen any slop. Shrouds are just loose enough that mast rotation is uninhibited under light wind loading, which seems really loose when the main is down in sloppy wave conditions.
When powered up, windward halyard is eased so that the shroud is taking the load, and the mast position and rotation are locked by the forestay/shroud/mainsheet triangle.
That's how I do it, anyway. And @johnAk, beautiful pics, and serious location envy.
RedHerring
New member
"Ah, Beer. The cause of and the solution to all the worlds problems." - Homer Simpson
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- Thread starter
- #151
Not Corsair Specific: Honda (Scepter) tanks are rotomolded. My orig tank has a wear hole in an upper corner. Only an issue when full, but an issue. Bought a replacement tank, but want to keep the orig tank on board as well (better than a gas can -Easier to swap out tanks than trying to fill from a can). There are plenty of kits available to repair rotomolded plastic. Anyone had success doing this with gas tank/can? There's a cost/benefit analysis to consider as well (a Scepter tank (the maker of the Honda tank and identical to the Honda tank) is only $65 (wish I would have known this before buying my $100 Honda branded Scepter tank)). Kits run the gambit, price wise, but seems a bunch cost more than a replacement Scepter tank. I guess I just answered my question. Disregard.
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MultiThom
Super Anarchist
A small hole such as you describe will likely be able to be closed with just a heat gun. Some sacrificial additional plastic might make it easier. You are just looking for leak seal, not pressure seal, right?
Practical Sailor magazine did a test on rotomolded fuel tank repair. If the tank was faded by the sun, they were unable to repair it. They apparently were able to repair tanks that had no sun damage, but they pretty strongly recommended against it. I've plastic welded with moderate success on rotomolded boats. I used G-Flex 655, which is thickened, a couple of times, and those repairs held up well. G-Flex 655 is about $40 or so.
Help.
Our f27 just sold. We had it for 15 years. Loved it. We're just getting to old for the lack of cruising comfort.
My wife wants a F31. Other than the increase in head room is it really a more comfortable as a cruiser? Clearly a more sailing performance but lets set that aside for a moment.
NW summertime live aboard for 30 days is the goal.
I'm ready for a 35' monomaran like a J 32 or some such for interior volume. I want shelter in the cockpit and good motoring at 5 knots to head further up the inside passage.
She gets seasick and has only ever sailed on the 2 trimarans we have owned and thinks she will hate a monohull leaner.
Will I be shocked if I get a monohull and discover that sailing at 6 knots is dull?
Our f27 just sold. We had it for 15 years. Loved it. We're just getting to old for the lack of cruising comfort.
My wife wants a F31. Other than the increase in head room is it really a more comfortable as a cruiser? Clearly a more sailing performance but lets set that aside for a moment.
NW summertime live aboard for 30 days is the goal.
I'm ready for a 35' monomaran like a J 32 or some such for interior volume. I want shelter in the cockpit and good motoring at 5 knots to head further up the inside passage.
She gets seasick and has only ever sailed on the 2 trimarans we have owned and thinks she will hate a monohull leaner.
Will I be shocked if I get a monohull and discover that sailing at 6 knots is dull?
MultiThom
Super Anarchist
Shocked? Probably not. But you won't like leaning in a blow and you also will likely want more crew on a keelboat. Did you guys ever live aboard the F27 for 30 days?
