"Yikes!" is sooooooo right.Steve,
Thanks so much for this great piece of history, that was fun. I think the Finn sailors are still nerding out over masts. I haven't gotten my head around it yet but I was reading about hanging the 12kg weight off the tip of the mast and measuring deflection at 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and tip, along with both fore/aft and sideways. Yikes.
I was wondering about the mainsheet cleat setup. Doesn't look like the standard Harken swivel base. I'll get better pictures next weekend. Lots of upgrading to be done. Thanks on the deck collar. I'll have to look into that one.Looks like a nice boat, mainsheet cleat is unusual, but individual taste is what it is.
There is plenty of original equipment, like the hiking straps! And all the cleats and blocks, so I’m thinking it has spent more time sitting than sailing. Deck collar has been upgraded and looks like whoever did it at least did a nice gel coat repair. Not easy with grey gel coat....
BobBill: our tests were done with ( I don’t remember how many) kg hanging from the mid length. 3/4-1/2-1/4 deflection fore and aft as well as side to side were taken. Interestingly, individual measures were consistent within their own dataset, but there were differences between each measures data sets. Even when using the same set up and equipment. We imported all the Needlespars into North America, and as Chip was racing Finns at the time, he measured every Finn mast we sold for 10 years.
On further review, I retract the deck collar comment. The deck collar adjustment was made after we stopped building Finns, so the deck mold was never modified. Standard Finn mainsheet cleats are one on each side tank and that weird upside down one on thwart. That was so you could pump 2:1. At the time you weren’t allowed to pump 1:1. So you would use that cleat to block half the mainsheet purchase like so: round mark and let the main way the hell out, put the next to last fall in the cleat and pump away.
I think this is unnecessary in the modern age of athletic sailing. ISAF was still mired in “ the sport of gentlemen” mindset in the 90’s and throwing people out of races for pumping. I guess they still do when it isn’t blowing hard enough.
from front to back:
Steve, as always, thank you so much for your knowledge and insight. I'm going to copy and paste this for Ryan to work with as he's rigging the boat this week. I'm looking forward to seeing how he does with the rigging and bringing this boat back to life.Also notice the nice feature of how the bailers are installed.
A molded plate is bonded to the inside of the hull to capture the flanges of the bailer. So there are no fasteners that need to be faired /puttied on the outside.
Now that I see the CB pivot...I get it. That may not be worth the change. That would be a hassle of a modification.from front to back:
Top rank vang cunningham, outhaul, inhaul. Don't have to be in that order. There is a hole plate on the front of the trunk with 082 bullet blocks on it. All controls have are tied to a bullet block under the foredeck and the control line is split to either side. you have to dick around to get the lengths right.
The lines pass through a holes in the mast collar and down to 4 blocks on the back if the mast step and are then tied the block on the spliter.
Inhaul is a Finn only thing. I'm not sure why it exists but it always has.
Lower rank is CB up and traveler.
Under the thwart is hiking strap length.
Layout was designed by Harken, so if there was a place to put a Harken block there is a Harken block. This was also in the stone age before Dynemma, so everything looks oversize because we used 3/16 and 1/4" tails on all the control systems. I'm sure a modern Finn looks less clunky.
You can see what I mean about clearance to drill the CB pivot hole.
Sounds kind alike the common cents test for building a cane fly rod. Makes sense. More nerd flexing.I was reading about hanging the 12kg weight off the tip of the mast and measuring deflection at 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and tip, along with both fore/aft and sideways. Yikes.