Crash bar fabrication

thefuture

Anarchist
649
0
H20
How many sailboats have you ever seen with CrMo anything on it? None? There's a reason for that. Powdercoated or not, the marine environment will destroy CrMo in short order. Especially in salt water.

After a good powdercoating job the material choice would really be unsubstantial environmental wise. There would be no corrosion or rust to be heard of. Again we use crmo on dune buggies, hell even jeep's, that spend 90% of there life covered in wet mud. We had one at the shop for over a year that was caked in mud and grime. Cleans right off. The powdercoating is key. If it where not to be powdercoated than you would be absolutely right.

 

Shife

Super Anarchist
7,657
12
After a good powdercoating job the material choice would really be unsubstantial environmental wise. There would be no corrosion or rust to be heard of. Again we use crmo on dune buggies, hell even jeep's, that spend 90% of there life covered in wet mud. We had one at the shop for over a year that was caked in mud and grime. Cleans right off. The powdercoating is key. If it where not to be powdercoated than you would be absolutely right.
Go park your sandrail in salt water and let me know how it works out for ya. I'm not sure if they teach this up north, but the water in the Great Lakes isn't the same as the water in the Oceans.

I was building Jeeps while you were still learning how to tie your shoes.

 

Ishmael

Granfalloon
58,810
16,561
Fuctifino
Go park your sandrail in salt water and let me know how it works out for ya. I'm not sure if they teach this up north, but the water in the Great Lakes isn't the same as the water in the Oceans.
I was building Jeeps while you were still learning how to tie your shoes.
Never learned to tie laces, he uses Velcro. He's a Real Dick, hey Future?

 
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tyler

Member
148
0
I was building Jeeps while you were still learning how to tie your shoes.
My dog could build a jeep. It takes real skill to build a toyota.

Use stainless, or carbon. Its your money, you decide.

 
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Timo42

Super Anarchist
Kind of hard to powdercoat the inside of the tube, you wouldn't see the corrosion until it failed. It's easy to build a fast Toyota... just put a chevy motor in it :lol:

 

Infidel

Super Anarchist
If I read correctly, this boat is still being built? Couldn't the builder sort this out for you and deliver the boat with the bars in place?
King 40 is a production boat. But might be possible with project manager on site soon in Argentina. The boat will come pretty basic to the US and then the fun starts-Nov or Dec.

 

Infidel

Super Anarchist
Also keep in mind that they are used to keep sails from hitting the wheels when put outboard for stacking or changing and also to support the compass.
Understood. Still not sure of the ultimate compass location. Don't care for the stock option at the companionway right over the engine.

 

bowgeezer

Member
484
0
Not sure what the King 40 pedestals are made from but you may want to check out these arrangements from Jefa if the pedestal structures are aluminum

http://www.jefa.com/steering/steering.htm

specifically the WP800 pedestal guard used on the X50. Not exactly elegant, but it would serve as an adequate hand hold in a seaway and give you someplace to put a plotter, instruments, etc and probably be far less expensive than carbon fiber. From personal experience, using carbon fiber for a pedestal guard has some serious drawbacks in that when it fails from a serious impact, it doesn't bend but instead turns into razor sharp edges and shards that can tear ligaments and sever arteries. If a boom comes crashing down on one of these guards or if someone wraps the mainsheet around it during a crash jibe, I would want something that would bend and not break.

 

Infidel

Super Anarchist
Not sure what the King 40 pedestals are made from but you may want to check out these arrangements from Jefa if the pedestal structures are aluminumhttp://www.jefa.com/steering/steering.htm

specifically the WP800 pedestal guard used on the X50. Not exactly elegant, but it would serve as an adequate hand hold in a seaway and give you someplace to put a plotter, instruments, etc and probably be far less expensive than carbon fiber. From personal experience, using carbon fiber for a pedestal guard has some serious drawbacks in that when it fails from a serious impact, it doesn't bend but instead turns into razor sharp edges and shards that can tear ligaments and sever arteries. If a boom comes crashing down on one of these guards or if someone wraps the mainsheet around it during a crash jibe, I would want something that would bend and not break.
Like it. On the short list. Thanks.

 
You can have an aluminum brace made, then strap a net of nylon webbing across in a grid pattern. I've seen it on BT challenge boats. They added this feature after a few people slid from the foredeck into the wheel spokes and got their legs broken in half. You can also add little pockets and stuff too. Lighter then carbon maybe. I have a picture at home that I took that is much better but I think this is what your talking about.

f9e74caca6b284de2cc51fd380868a52.jpg

 

Infidel

Super Anarchist
You can have an aluminum brace made, then strap a net of nylon webbing across in a grid pattern. I've seen it on BT challenge boats. They added this feature after a few people slid from the foredeck into the wheel spokes and got their legs broken in half. You can also add little pockets and stuff too. Lighter then carbon maybe. I have a picture at home that I took that is much better but I think this is what your talking about.
Looks effective. Not a very pretty solution though. Pretty is important. Boat is American Girl and my daughters hit me hard for any uglies including my wrinkles.

 

equivocator

Anarchist
677
1
I think you should keep in mind that there is a fundamental difference between your King 40 and a Volvo 70. A Volvo 70 is designed and equipped to sail in extreme weather conditions at speed of 25-30 kts or more, and to take large amounts of blue water aboard. I don't know where you live, but I think it is unlikely that you will be sailing your King 40 in conditions of that kind, and even if you do, there will not be as much blue water on board because the boat is so much lighter and less powerful than a Volvo 70 or Open 60. Another thing to keep in mind is that the King 40 has a limited amount of cockpit area, and you do not want a large structure that will impede your crew.

However, what you will need is a rail to assist you in getting past the wheels in heavy air or rough seas. This is typically a U-shaped rail, attached to the steering pedestal or compass mount. If it is a couple of inches higher than the rim of the wheel, it will be easier to grab from in front or behind the wheel. It can also serve as compass guard and a mount for an instrument display. It should be mounted forward of the compass, rather than over the top of it, so that it does not obstruct the helmsman's view. Because it is difficult to make a strong small diameter rail from carbon or aluminum, I think stainless steel is probably the best material. Because the rail is close to the compass, I would avoid ferrous metal.

Good luck with your new boat.

 

Infidel

Super Anarchist
I think you should keep in mind that there is a fundamental difference between your King 40 and a Volvo 70. A Volvo 70 is designed and equipped to sail in extreme weather conditions at speed of 25-30 kts or more, and to take large amounts of blue water aboard. I don't know where you live, but I think it is unlikely that you will be sailing your King 40 in conditions of that kind, and even if you do, there will not be as much blue water on board because the boat is so much lighter and less powerful than a Volvo 70 or Open 60. Another thing to keep in mind is that the King 40 has a limited amount of cockpit area, and you do not want a large structure that will impede your crew.
However, what you will need is a rail to assist you in getting past the wheels in heavy air or rough seas. This is typically a U-shaped rail, attached to the steering pedestal or compass mount. If it is a couple of inches higher than the rim of the wheel, it will be easier to grab from in front or behind the wheel. It can also serve as compass guard and a mount for an instrument display. It should be mounted forward of the compass, rather than over the top of it, so that it does not obstruct the helmsman's view. Because it is difficult to make a strong small diameter rail from carbon or aluminum, I think stainless steel is probably the best material. Because the rail is close to the compass, I would avoid ferrous metal.

Good luck with your new boat.
Thanks. Points well taken. Not planning to hit Volvo 70 speeds and the grab rail function is more critical.The Jefa unit is actually built for the Jefa wheel pedestal that comes with the boat, so that seems to make the most sense. Hoping to make a decision after the Newport show and another walk around hull 2.

 
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