Deck Fitting Repair

Bela Brisa

New member
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0
Hull, MA
Accidentally stepped on this fitting and it pulled out of the deck and cracked the fiberglass shell. It secures the bottom of the dodger so doesn’t see much load.

What’s the best way to repair?
Can I just squeeze some epoxy in there or should I unscrew and fill it all in?

459E3398-E57B-41D2-B060-BBFC30E7014E.jpeg
 

Crash

Super Anarchist
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SoCal
The stress cracks (small, spidery cracks) with rust in them indicate that there is more stress/movement than you may realize. The newer cracks, and the "chip" that is coming off means you at the very least need to remove the fitting, drill out oversize, and then redrill/tap the epoxy to take the screw. Hold the top of the chip down with tape while you drill out oversize, and then fill with thickened epoxy. Use a syringe and then tape over end of the whole so epoxy doesn't run out.
 

See Level

Working to overcome my inner peace
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Over there
The area above towards the track has already been repaired once (poorly, you can see where they didn't do any second fill over the divots).
It may even be all Bondo, which could be why the post broke it out so easy.

Open it up, do a proper repair with fiberglass mat

Screenshot_20230205-130741~2.png
 
Last edited:

longy

Overlord of Anarchy
7,489
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San Diego
That fitting exerts a LOT of leverage into a single screw, with a small footprint. I would advise having a washer welded to the bottom to enlarge that footprint & spread that load out
If that post is 1/4" I'd add a 5/8" washer
 

Crash

Super Anarchist
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SoCal
The area above towards the track has already been repaired once (poorly, you can see where they didn't do any second fill over the divots).
It may even be all Bondo, which could be why the post broke it out so easy.

Open it up, do a proper repair with fiberglass mat

View attachment 572810
Great catch, I was looking at it on my phone, not my computer. Looking closer, it looks like the whole top of the companionway was either repaired or maybe widened? Lots of little craters in the filling, and mismatched color as well.... :unsure:
 

Zonker

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Canada
It don't need a washer welded to a tiny dodger fitting. The point load is still the screw into the glasswork.

Grind away the chips, drill the hole a bit bigger and fill with thickened epoxy. That type of failure cracks is gelcoat, unless somebody gelcoated over Bondo instead of just painting.

The rust marks means yes, it's been flexing and cracking for some time. Put a dab of caulking on it this time when you screw it in after the epoxy has cured.
 

slug zitski

Super Anarchist
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worldwide
That fitting exerts a LOT of leverage into a single screw, with a small footprint. I would advise having a washer welded to the bottom to enlarge that footprint & spread that load out
If that post is 1/4" I'd add a 5/8" washer
Yes indeed .. the lever arm overpowers the fastener substrate

Poor engineering
 

phillysailor

Super Anarchist
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When do you know that drilling out the hole oversized wont be enough and you’ll have to scarf in new glass or G10?
 

Zonker

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Well I would say anything with a significant load on it:

- dodger frame mounting foot
- cleat
- jammer/clutches of course
- rope fairleads/diverter
- etc.

But you would hope none of them rely on a screw but would be through bolted instead
 
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