Diesel Loading: how much is enough?

DDW

Super Anarchist
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Interesting - haven't seen that behavior in my installation, but I'll put it in my notes for the Lithium upgrade in March, thanks!
You do have to watch pretty closely to see it. One advantage of the Wakespeed is you can just plug it into your laptop and log everything than happens once a second. Can be done with a terminal emulator, but I got tired of setting that up and wrote a Mac application that connects and does this automatically. Also lets you force it to bulk or float or whatever, and a few other things.
 

CapDave

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Antigua
It's common practice in the commercial world. You just have to not overdo it or the engine room door slams open into you.
I worked on a Royal Huisman build for a 58m ketch. The engine room was positive pressure as normal yard practice, and planned for 6 complete air changes per hour plus combustion supply. Fire shutters on both intake and exhaust.
 

DDW

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External rectifiers are key for high output alternators and will help tremendously with thermal regulation. Even if the rectifier is mounted in the engine bay the additional surface area and fans make heat dissipation much more effective.

Companies like Electromaxx sell alternators with external rectification.
My engine room is fairly well sealed, the intake is ducted to direct it onto the Electrodyne alternator, which might partially explain why it stays cooler. Air exits via the engine exhaust. At 2.2 liters and 2000 rpm cruise is it pumping 2200 liters (78 cu ft) through per minute - probably around 1 air change/min. Heat does build up at the top though. I probably should duct the intake closer to the top.
 

slug zitski

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I worked on a Royal Huisman build for a 58m ketch. The engine room was positive pressure as normal yard practice, and planned for 6 complete air changes per hour plus combustion supply. Fire shutters on both intake and exhaust.
That’s typical engine room engineering

someplace on the internet is a Cummins pdf technical document concerning engine room ventilation , volume, hot spots and residual heat after the engine and ventilation has been shut down

engine room heat peaks after the engine is shut down
 

jmh2002

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But if I were buying a new alternator I would likely buy an Electrodyne and regulate it with an APS Wakespeed. I put an E-225-24 on a boat in 2002 and then cruised it 20K miles over 2 years, it performed perfectly. Serious kit.


Agreed. I had a similar experience with Electrodyne back in the late 1990s. Learnt about the company from Steve Dashew and dealt directly with the old man at Electrodyne who was semi-retired by then and dealt with the one off projects for pleasure. But actually still needed to convince him that we were suitable customers, as he didn't want to sell product that wouldn't be installed properly and perform properly. Company reputation and product performance were way more important than just another sale for him.

We installed a model with the remote mounted rectifier/diode box that included it's own cooling fan and went in an electrical cupboard. Fantastic. Only way to go if it's within budget.

The alternator itself was in a less than ideal typical monohull installation, shoe horned into the available space in the engine compartment, up against the side cover, with generally poor airflow, and the alternator still normally performed ABOVE it's rated output, except maybe after extended motoring (I mean hours and hours) and an eventual residual heat build up in the compartment. Then it finally dropped down to the rated output, give or take a few amps.

Even the fan on the alternator itself was machined out of billet aluminium - none of this cheap pressed steel nonsense.

As you said - Serious Kit - and the type of quality and performance we were pleased to pay extra for at the time.

Here's a photo I found online of the very cool remote mounted rectifier/diode box with it's own fan (not my previous installation mentioned above but the same concept). Beautiful kit, even just to look at:

IMG_20200515_190603.jpg
 




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