Dyneema Lifelines

Baldur

Super Anarchist
I was thinking about the whole coated/uncoated wire thing and the reasons for banning coated wire.

Does anyone here have personal knowledge of anyone going over the side because a lifeline corroded undetected under the coating?

I don't.
I don't either. Maybe we will see what it takes to break the 45yo coated stainless on my SJ24 when I do Dyneema later this season. 

I went over once on someone else's boat and had a lifeline separate last weekend. Both because the aft fitting, with a tight lock nut, had backed out to the final thread and sperated. How does that even happen? I'll never hike again if I am not certain that fitting has been inspected. It was January when I went over in Vancouver. 

Just did Round Whidbey. (1st in class, & 1st overall for Whidbey Sprint, btw, hold your applause, hold your applause) the SERs say "coated stainless only allowed if less than 10 years old and inspected by the skipper within the last year" Dyneema was allowed, but I don't remember the rule on age or anything  I am going to do Dyneema for the SJ24 very soon. 

 

Baldur

Super Anarchist
Nothing wrong with having two sets, one SS and the other dyneema.  I know which ones I would prefer to have on the boat all the time, and which ones I would only put on when I had to.

The OSR rules are quite specific on the sizes you are required to use.  Splicing dyneema is dead easy.  I question the "questionable DIYS mentality" comment.  I have had to re-do the work of professional riggers when they screwed up on several occasions, most recently this spring.  

Then we have SJB's rigger telling him SS lifelines are required for racing, when they clearly are not with a few exceptions.  It is always a good idea to consult a professional, but one should not abandon common sense.
When it comes to the rules I prefer to read them, rather than have someone tell me what they think. 

 

overdraft

Anarchist
I was thinking about the whole coated/uncoated wire thing and the reasons for banning coated wire.

Does anyone here have personal knowledge of anyone going over the side because a lifeline corroded undetected under the coating?

I don't.
Not exactly, but we just blew up the stainless clew ring on the blade with a dyneema soft shackle... the ring looked like it might have picked up some corrosion that was hidden by the webbing that attached it to the sail... just sayin’

 

Locus

locus
775
99
Seattle, WA
all the boats here in PS I raced on in the past 20y have had Dyneema lifelines. Even boats I raced on in the 90s had dyneema lowers and wire uppers.

we all hang fenders from the lines and I have stood on them as well. Near a stanchion  for sure.

Most boats I have seen recently with wire also use lashing to tension so that would be the weak point. 

Never had a dyneema break while hiking, but had a few wire break when the whole crew leaned on them (lower) All were failures of the fitting or the wire loop on the pulpit (or pushpit) don't remember which failed

 
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Haligonian Winterr

Super Anarchist
1,490
63
Halifax, NS
I am making up new lifelines now in  7mm WR2.  The challenge I find is getting exact lengths and not wasting alot of expensive line or cutting it too short.

For instance, if I do a brummel eye at one end and then want say 21' to the other brummel eye, how do I compensate for the amount lost in the splice versus the amount gained through creep when loaded to figure out where to cut the line off the spool before splicing?  This gets extra critical with gate openings where the the lengths are short and you are for instance, using a cow hitched eye to an eye fitting that goes through the stanchion (no room for adjustment) and then eye splice or eye splice for cow hitch to a pelican hook - the whole thing being only a couple of feet long?

I'd be interested to hear anyone's insights on this-it seems to me that getting exact bearing point to bearing point lengths after two splices,  compensating for splice loss and creep gain is pretty difficult or pretty imprecise?
7mm WR2 covered eye splice. For 100x bury give 14mm for splice shortening. Cover takes 45mm of slack pushed to middle to accomodate extra dia in splice bury.

Use winch or ram plus prussik loup to pull splices in. Splice shortening numbers are based on splice set at 100% MWL

HW

 

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