Dynex Dux vs. New England STS


Newport, RI
We have used both for standing rigging, halyards and lifelines. Excellent results and durable ropes.

When adding a cover if you need to make it a double braid, may need to work quite hard on the core to core splice to finish the bury, but it can be done.

DUX is slightly stronger, but if you stay within the safety range based on the application, it should be fine to go either way. As single braids, they work similar to Amsteel, Endura 12 (STS) and Marlow D12.

The coating is not sticky and the main physical difference you'll find is that the are a little more stiffer than the standard DSK single braids and, therefore, you may want to have a larger bearing point when using the splice, such as a thimble, low friction ring, etc.

More people may elaborate more. Bam Miller, Mark Vannote?

Our 0.02
Hey Rod,

I was just checking the forums out and saw this. Got myself a different job. I am still happy to help out with any rigging questions but am not on here as much as before.

Good luck.


When you guys are talking about creep, are you stretching the stays, post splicing, prior to mounting them on the spars? Because from what I understand about this stuff, doing such is key, in terms of reducing creep. And the post splice length added by the pre-mounting stretch, needs to be accounted for when splicing the rigging initially. Or you may be abck splicing it again, only a bit shorter the 2nd time around.



Cape Cod MA
I hooked one end of the spliced setups to my trailer hitch on a small incline the other end to the trailer with the wheels blocked.

Trailblazer in neutral than in light gear stretched out a couple inches in 30 ft. I haven't noted any creep since then. 7mm STS. 24' Corsair.



New member
@ SySunday The toggles you use with the eye welded on, where do you find these? I have not been able to locate them because I have no idea what the common name or trade name is. When I go looking all I find is the swage style for wire terminations.

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New member
SF Bay
So I'm wrestling with going with Colligo mast terminators with the larger radius, or if I can use the T-Ball fittings with the ring for shrouds and forestay.  Is the bend radius of these 'running back' fittings adequate not to degrade the 7mm Dux? The T-Ball fittings seem simpler, lighter, and less windage...



Super Anarchist
i'm doing a similar type of shroud, though with much smaller line. I decided I didn't like the luggage tag loss of strength, so decided to terminate the upper end of shroud in a nylon thimble. The T-ball fitting is lashed to the thimble. The smaller line does better with the smaller radii.

The other end terminates in a LFR, through which a cascade of another LFR and then a Practice Laser vang (3:1) setup tensions. Figure around 10:1 total purchase, since the LFR add a bit more friction than blocks. 


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