Ever heard about Coppercoat? Is it effective?

psychosailing

Anarchist
549
0
I bumped into this http://www.coppercoatusa.com/The_Product.htmland I've never heard of it before.

They claim it is a 10 year lasting solution for your bottom which I doubt (knowing sea creatures). But I may be wrong. They also claim it is a barrier coat for osmosis. In fact it looks just like a barrier coat epoxy paint to which you add copper powder.

According to their online calculator I would need a total of 6kits of 1.5liters for the bottom of my boat (29ft modified full keel) bringing the total cost to 780$ .I already have a barrier coat on my hull so I am more interested in the antifouling properties than anything.

Now if their 10yrs protection claim is correct the saving can be considerable. With a regular antifouling paint application every two year the math can go up to 400+ per coat considering haul out and yard time for a boat like mine. If it only Coppercoat would last 6 years with no need for recoats and drydock maintenanca the saving can be great.

But I am skeptical. Don't know why but it look too easy.

Anybody tried it or have first hand experience, observation on Coppercoat?

Being about to leave for a long term cruising I would be very happy to have a long lasting bottom paint with no need to haul out or invent creative drydock solution every 2 years.

 

TwoLegged

Super Anarchist
5,665
2,081
If it kinda works 50%, isn't that still okay?

A few more scrubbing sessions, but save the big bills from complete repaints. Maybe not so easy if your boat isn't the sort that can dry out (whether freestanding like a bilge-keeler or alongside like an old long-keeler), but that's just a reason to buy a snorkel

 
I saw this a few years ago and looked into it then. If I misremember correctly, the powdered copper goes into an epoxy 'paint' which then goes onto your hull. there are a couple of issues -

First is that if you don't prep well - hey, it's a hard epoxy and it'll peel right off. Given that it's really expensive, that doesn't sound terribly interesting.

Second, assuming that you did get that really good bond - the copper will eventually leech out (doing what it is supposed to do), and you are left with - you guessed it - a hard epoxy sponge, with lots and lots of teeny tiny holes where the copper used to be. Getting that epoxy off is a copper plated beyotch; and painting over a porous epoxy surface isn't something I'd want to do to my boat.

I'm sure that you'll find people who swear that it's the best stuff since Astro-glide and you'll find others who rank it right up there with used kitty litter.

Best of luck either way you choose.

 

Recidivist

Super Anarchist
I used an Australian product from ATL Composites - they stopped making it because the EPA licences were too expensive. My boat was the "test platform" for tropical waters. My thoughts were that if it didn't work well, I'd antifoul over the top of it and when the antifoul wore through, I'd still have *some* protection. I never did antifoul over the top. Once or twice a year I'd rub with a stiff scourer or even wet and dry to burnish the surface and refresh the copper surface.

After ATL stopped making it, I wanted some more to freshen up (this was probably 5 years after applying it). ATL gave me the grade of powder and the contact details of a mill in Tasmania. I ordered the copper and mixed it with standard West System resin, using a super slow tropical hardener that ATL had developed for me (now 209 in the West System range). It wasn't a big success because I didn't add enough thixotropic mixer, but that just meant I had to sand off some runs to get a decent racing finish.

That boat was kept in the water all year round and never had any osmosis, so I was happy with the barrier effect as well. ATL told me that there was a synergistic effect from the copper that made the copper/epoxy almost totally impermeable, much more so than plain epoxy, and exceeded only (in their testing) by adding powdered aluminium to the resin.

My next boat had an inboard motor. With ss shaft, bronze propellor, copper HF groundplate and bronze hull fittings, I was too scared to add a copper coating to the mix and create some sort of monster battery, so I used Micron CSC on that boat. However, I'm now building a glass over ply cat and intend applying the copper/epoxy coating on that as there will be no other metals immersed full time.

 
I've heard and read mixed reports so I wonder if it has to do with mixing, prep, or application. But I also think this is true of any bottom paint, that success is a product of your local yard as much as the product itself.

I think Harbor 20s came out of the mold with Copperpoxy, basically the same thing. I know a lot of H20 folks, but never asked how their original bottoms held up.

 
Last edited by a moderator:

Presuming Ed

Super Anarchist
11,012
166
London, UK
Lots of threads over on the YBW forums. General consensus is that it works, possibly not quite as well as A/F paint, but does need to be applied exactly as specified. No shortcuts allowed.

 

USA190520

Super Anarchist
My friends father developed a system way back in the 80's called CopperLock-

Basically they applied a coat of epoxy resin then they blew micro balloons on to the surface to create a semi porous surface then they sprayed a molten copper/nickel alloy over the resin-

It was freakin cool, it used these guns that fed wire into the back and sprayed molten metal out the front like paint... You could spray copper, copper nickel, stainless, aluminum, etc.

Not sure what ever became of it... My buddy has a guns and sprays all sorts of stuff from garden statues to ceramics. Their biggest contracts were with oil rigs offshore-

 

mrming

Member
We have a small swing keeler which sits on the trailer with the keel up, and as a result is a PITA to antifoul.

I re-did the bottom and chose Coppercoat because:

I wanted to do the bottom once. The boat is hard to paint and I don't want to be under there every season. Coppercoat is tough as hell and lasts at least 10 years.

We scrub every 4 weeks so the actual antifouling properties aren't that important. It works okay but not amazingly. People report different results depending on their area. We're in a high fouling area and nothing works that well. Coppercoat works just as well as the International Hard Racing I used before.

So I would say it depends what you want. If you scrub regularly it's good. If you're in an area where people have had good results with it, happy days. Also as others have said, bottom prep is key. It stuck to our hull like glue.

 

jhiller

Anarchist
786
12
I used Copper Coat on 2 Valiants, a Contessa 32 and my Tartan 4700. Here is the Tartan after 4 years.

IMG_7101.JPG

 

bljones

Super Anarchist
1,431
0
CA
I'm sure that you'll find people who swear that it's the best stuff since Astro-glide and you'll find others who rank it right up there with used kitty litter.
If those are your only options, you're really doing it wrong.

 

jhiller

Anarchist
786
12
Where do your boats live, jhiller?
The Contessa in the UK and Michigan and the Tartan in Biscayne Bay and the Great Lakes.

The secret of getting really good antifouling properties with Coppercoat is in the preparation and the application.I have been very happy with it and an added bonus is that it increases the resistance to water penetration of the hull. I’m rather surprised more people don’t use it

 
Top