Expedition 14.5 Hatch

[Dex Sawash]

Also got a SLO SAILS Laser2 top cover, doesn't have holes for anything on top but all the spars fit underneath on Intensity foam spar blocks, $200ish with bottom strap with buckle upgrade.

 

[valcour2]

Can you guys enlighten me on how the mainsheet attaches to the boom? There is only a small nub screw on the top of the boom about midway aft, so I’m guessing the sheet hooks to that somehow. @bluelaser2, your boat appears to have a webbing loop, but maybe that’s unique to your carbon retrofit boom. Might be some missing pieces in my setup, so photos of the attachment point are welcome.

Also, what are the diameters of the furler and outhaul lines? My boat is missing both.

Thanks

 

[Dex Sawash]

The original setup was a strap around 1 to 1.5 feet long with a loop over boom. Your nub keeps the loop from sliding forward to the "gooseneck" when running square (it would never tend to slide aft so the single nub is all it needed). At botom of strap was a single block with becket on a swivel. On sole was a swivel fiddle with cam. The sheet was rigged 3:1 tied to upper becket. The strap may not serve a purpose beyond reduction of sheet length. The swivels allow the tail of the sheet to be handled ahead or behind the purchase (go forward or aft of it when tacking). This worked fine except cleat/uncleat is sub-optimal with cam on flopping block.

I hate a sheet cam on a block so I binned the lot and put cams on the beveled edge of cockpit. And changed to 2:1 end boom with split tail.

 

[Dex Sawash]

 

[valcour2]

Thanks Dex. Good, clear description on the mainsheet.

Nice mod on the tiller.

 

[bluelaser2]

Here is my mainsheet setup. I use the dyneema strop to lower windage and lessen the amount of mainsheet needed. I use a Spinlock mini-clutch cleat instead of a standard cam cleat. Love the action- it just clicks open and closed. So much better. The boom attachment is just a nylon loop and the stainless eyestrap serves the same purpose as the nub on the original boom. This is my 21st season with the 14.5

[ICODE][/ICODE]

 

[valcour2]

Sailed the resurrected Expedition. Really great boat, both 1 and 2 up. Was out in 12-15 and caught some good downwind rides while 1 up.

Couple things to refine, after sailing it:

1. The Daggerboard doesn’t stay down unless it’s loaded under upwind sailing. Did these boats ever have the “W” shaped rubber friction pad that Lasers had? I was thinking of trying the soft side of 2” Velcro at the top and bottom of the slot.

2. The furling line has a ton of friction when trying to furl the mast, even with zero load on the sail and the outhaul line completely slacked. I ended up furling the sail by manually twisting the mast. Since I don’t plan to sail partly furled, I may forgo the furling completely, but it would be nice to be able to easily furl the sail during launch and takeout.

@Lex Teredo and @bluelaser2 - any guidance on the above is appreciated.

 

[Lex Teredo]

I think you wanted @Dex Sawash. I haven't been commenting on this thread.

 

[Dex Sawash]

I did the velcro trick, better but didn't cure it, need more thickness. Keep meaning to go to fabric store and get non-stickyback 1/2" wide velcro to add thickness a strip at a time until it works better.

There was slot carpet at some point, 1 of 4 strips was still there when I got it. 29er slot carpet looks like it will work but is eye-wateringly expensive (West Coast Sailing had it, I think)

BL2 determined the board had too much area anyway and cut his shorter. I don't know if that is correct, but now I worry less about the 6" it floats up.

My furler bearing races are very rough from PO ignoring the balls disintegrating. New torlon balls helped. Catalina sells an aluminum furler for their version that looks to be an alloy duplicate but I don't know if it will work for sure and it was $700 last time I looked.

Toyed with the idea of making a larger diameter furling surface/drum somehow to increase mechanical advantage when furling. Finding the perfect wind angle to furl/unfurl helps. When unrolling, changing between a firm pull and just tailing slack so the wind does the unrolling helps on mine. Also leave 2-3' unrolled but cleated tight with both furler cleats when you launch or any time you furl helps it unfurl since you have a little sail area available then.

 

[valcour2]

Thanks Dex. On the daggerboard, there is some residue from 4200 or similar that was used to glue in the slot carpet. I’ll play around with the Velcro and also try to find something beefier. I’ll let you know if I find a cheaper solution.

On the furler, the small diameter of the mast, plus the increasing lead angle as the wraps move up the mast, are definitely a disadvantage.

Sorry for the misquote, Lex!

 

[bluelaser2]

On the furler, the small diameter of the mast, plus the increasing lead angle as the wraps move up the mast, are definitely a disadvantage.


Def want to replace the torlon balls to get the furler back in spec. I use a very small diameter furling line and have zero problems furling in and out. My mainsail is made of .6 poly spinnaker cloth so it furls super easy without creasing.

My boat has the centerboard carpet and it works well. As noted above, I cut 1/3 off the board. its faster upwind and down, set it once and forget it.

 

[valcour2]

Was out playing with the 14.5 in 12-15, and some 2-3’ waves. Lots of fun.

I did have one problem when the furler drum sheered the plastic nub that holds it under the aluminum plate, and bounced out of the step. The base of the mast came off the pin in the step, and then bent that pin. I re-bent the pin to align with the hole. But now there’s nothing to hold the mast in the step.

How are you guys keeping the mast in the boat? I was thinking of adding eyestraps to the drum and aluminum plate, to ensure it’s secured to the boat.

Thanks

 

[bluelaser2]

Was out playing with the 14.5 in 12-15, and some 2-3’ waves. Lots of fun.

I did have one problem when the furler drum sheered the plastic nub that holds it under the aluminum plate, and bounced out of the step. The base of the mast came off the pin in the step, and then bent that pin. I re-bent the pin to align with the hole. But now there’s nothing to hold the mast in the step.

How are you guys keeping the mast in the boat? I was thinking of adding eyestraps to the drum and aluminum plate, to ensure it’s secured to the boat.

Thanks

My bearing plate is some kind of starboard plastic, not aluminum. That's a pisser

 

[Dex Sawash]

Was out playing with the 14.5 in 12-15, and some 2-3’ waves. Lots of fun.

I did have one problem when the furler drum sheered the plastic nub that holds it under the aluminum plate, and bounced out of the step. The base of the mast came off the pin in the step, and then bent that pin. I re-bent the pin to align with the hole. But now there’s nothing to hold the mast in the step.

How are you guys keeping the mast in the boat? I was thinking of adding eyestraps to the drum and aluminum plate, to ensure it’s secured to the boat.

Thanks

Been meaning to screw a bar to the aluminum plate that would swing across the furler and get secured under a "hook"
There is nothing that keeps the rig in my boat, outhaul tension loads it enough I can't lift it up and have turtled it a bunch of times.
There are 2 half-moon protuberances on the OD of the drum, the lower one keeps mast from _fully_ dropping out when turtled because the pin is longer than the distance between the 2 half moons. It is just plastic so I do want to add a backup.

The top of my furler is just a few mm higher than the aluminum plate, but my mast has been repaired and my furler may not be at standard height.

 

[valcour2]

Dex,

I’ll think about the bar idea. I was also considering some sort of lashing from eyestraps on the plate that go over the furler.

The top of my furler drum sits about an inch above the aluminum plate when the mast is seated.

To insert, I need to align the (now broken off) half-moon nub with the hole in the aluminum plate so the bottom of the furler drops through. I can’t figure out what the upper half-moon nub does. Maybe the top and bottom of the furler drum are the same injected molded piece, just bolted together?

 

[Dex Sawash]

General arrangement. Left my SUP paddle at home. The paddle clips work very well. Need to rig a JC strap to hold boom out when paddling.

 

[valcour2]

My current arrangement. I re-aligned the base pin with some help from a 3’ piece of galvanized pipe and a centering jig made from 1/2 copper pipe. I suspect some of my furlong friction was due to the base pin not being aligned with the center of the drum hole on the plate. Next time sailing will confirm that.

Also a shot of my furler. What you no longer see is the lower “nub” that broke off the drum. I have a spare mast and furler, so I will scavenge the drum and maybe replace the balls at the same time.

 

[bluelaser2]

The idea is to sink the lower key into the plate, then rotate the drum until the upper key aligns with the keyhole, and drop it into place. The upper key should be in the keyhole when sailing.

 

[valcour2]

Oddly, the upper key does not drop into the keyhole when aligned. It sits above it, even with the mast fully seated on the pin.

 

[bluelaser2]

Oddly, the upper key does not drop into the keyhole when aligned. It sits above it, even with the mast fully seated on the pin.

That means the furler is out of position on the tube or the mast plug at the bottom is not fully inserted