'Fanzy' shroud adjusters

I have owned a Laser Vortex for the last 2 years now, and it's been great. Except for 1 ting, getting the shrouds set is a pain! I have standard 8-hole shroud adjusters on each of my cap shrouds. End of last season I moved the shrouds 1 hole, but the rig seems too loose which both causes performance decrease and the risk of the mast popping from the deck (as the mast is mounted with a ball joint). Long story short, this season I want to solve it, I also plan on buying a tension gauge. 

Options I currently consider:
Riggins screw - Will require some changes to the shrouds, looks elegant, but is it safe?

Sta-Master - Easy replacement, will need some PVC tape though!

RWO Shroud lever - A bit over-engineered?

I'm keen on hearing about other community members' experiences with more 'fanzy' shroud adjusters?

Not sure I follow you, do you want to move up a hole to lessen rig tension? Otherwise, whenever you lengthen your shrouds by moving a step up in the shroud adjuster it must be followed by shortening the forestay one way or another.

About rig tensioner, I can really recommend Spinlock Rig-sense.



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I want to be able to lessen the rig when taking the mast down/up and tighten it, once the mast has been raised, that way I get the best of both worlds: easy set-up and tight rig. I'm just wondering which of the options (or others?) is the best?

The Spinlock Rig-sense looks indeed very nice!


The Q

Super Anarchist
1, Riggins screw or a similar type with forks both ends, used them for many years, perfectly safe . Biggest problem is the split rings on the ends, they need to be taped over or they get damaged by jib sheets etc. Sometimes it's possible for the barrel to unscrew a bit, but not if you check done up properly each time out. 

2, Stay master, not used them, have seen them, you end up with a shackle to the shrouds which can catch on the jib sheets, depending on what you have on the bottom may be bolted on or need another shackle, yes needs to be taped to protect jib sheets.

3, RWO, Have seen them in use, in a class that released its leeward shrouds while sailing.. not good if you have a lot of tacking to do. Again split rings need taping up.

4, The cheapest method... string... yep a couple of feet of Dyneema cord, doing a few loops from shroud plate to shroud eye, very dependent on your knot tying (and untying). I've used it on a couple of boats.. ( with a shackle on the shroud plate if the hole is too small for multiple loops of Dyneema)

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martin 'hoff

Super Anarchist
RWO levers are great. I love them, but tape the pin, i can wiggle out.

Dyneema is also excellent, but you'll want a way to measure your settings in some easy way for a reproduceable setup. 

Loos and rigsense are both excellent. I end up liking the rigsense more.


Major Tom

Super Anarchist
Darkest Africa
I'd use a block and tackle on the forestay.  Loosen it, adjust the shrouds as desired then tighten it up.
Definitely the cheap and easy option, most of the boats I sail we have a block on the stem fitting through which the forestay runs, it is then attached to a purchase system running down the centre of the foredeck. This includes boats which have stamasters as you can’t adjust them if you have any significant rig tension on. 

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I think in a vortex, the shrouds are pinned, and a lashing on the forestay gets you rig tension.  Save your pennies for spinnakers.  

It sucks that the UK class hides it's tuning guide etc behind a paywall.  You could email them to ask, they might do you an overseas discount?  No point in reinventing the wheel.



half moon bay
Simple modification to a hays 1/4" open turnbuckle.

TB scale.JPG


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