Favorite Standing Rigging Systems for Bluewater Boats?
- Thread starter Kolibri
- Start date
2airishuman
The Loyal Opposition
Chainplates yes but help me out on the turnbuckles. Has a rig ever failed solely because the turnbuckle were hors de combat?
Elegua
Generalissimo
Never heard of it. But if you don’t you have all this shiny new kit with ratty looking turnbuckles.
Ease the sheet.
ignoring stupid people is easy
- 20,679
- 2,510
Sounds like me after a haircut...
Panope
Super Anarchist
Remind me again why you Marconi people don't use Galvanized Wire.
(I'm not saying you should)
Steve
(I'm not saying you should)
Steve
Almost all t/b bodies are bronze - which is quite well suited for this purpose. No corrosion issues, reasonable strength. The only bronze unit's I've condemned were physically abused to where they were bent. SS t/b bodies will suffer cracking (esp off of sharp corners) and will gall horribly. Tghen there were the Navtec screws that were made of ss and would fail under the nut boss where you could not see the cracking developing
We had quite a few 'traditional' cruisers ask for gal wire in Hawaii. However, all the source references were to something called "plow steel" which did not seem to be available anymore. And the 1x19 equivalent in gal was more like 1x7 strand, very stiff. We did make some 7x7 gal wire stuff using Nico press sleeves, and some poured zinc sockets.
Finished up my standing re-rigging last December. Original was rod, I went with wire, recommended by my rigger, and for cost. The rod wasn't significantly lighter to get equivalent strength, just smaller diameter so slightly less windage.
My rigger is an old guy like me in his 60s, and has done lots of race boat rigging, as well as cruising rigs. He is quite negative on rod, says it is too prone to catastrophic failure without any warning. His take on synthetic is that if you want the weight savings and have deep pockets to replace it every couple of years, so be it. If you want long lasting and aren't trying to sqeak out another 0.05 kts, then get wire.
My rigger is an old guy like me in his 60s, and has done lots of race boat rigging, as well as cruising rigs. He is quite negative on rod, says it is too prone to catastrophic failure without any warning. His take on synthetic is that if you want the weight savings and have deep pockets to replace it every couple of years, so be it. If you want long lasting and aren't trying to sqeak out another 0.05 kts, then get wire.
slug zitski
Banned
- Banned
- #31
Rod and wire both have the same rated life span..about ten years
ive never seen rod or wire actually break . The failure has always been at the terminations
the advantage that wire has is that the condition of the termination can be easily inspected
with rod you can’t because the termination is inside the terminal
wire is perfectly suitable for a small sailboat …
rod has a windage , weight , stretch benefi best suited for high powered,, narrow shroud base , multi spreader rigs
ive never seen rod or wire actually break . The failure has always been at the terminations
the advantage that wire has is that the condition of the termination can be easily inspected
with rod you can’t because the termination is inside the terminal
wire is perfectly suitable for a small sailboat …
rod has a windage , weight , stretch benefi best suited for high powered,, narrow shroud base , multi spreader rigs
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robtoujours
Communist
Any opinions on Dyform slug? It's slightly heavier than 1x19 but not enough to make a serious difference in most cases IMO, and not that much more expensive either. Thinking of trying it for the next re-rig...
slug zitski
Banned
- Banned
- #33
It’s one step up from wire…good stuff
bit more expensive , sometimes difficult to source
it’s up to you
i would go with dyform …always advantageous to use the best standing rigging suitable to your rig
ask your rigger
Ajax
Super Anarchist
Bacon Sails has a peg board of failed rigging components attached to it as a set of examples. Shattered turnbuckles are on it.
slug zitski
Banned
- Banned
- #35
Yah
And remember ….many times the mast, spreader roots , chainplates , stemhead and rigging terminations were poorly designed and built on day one
hopefully a pro rigger goes up your mast and surveys it at reasonable time intervals
they can spot mis alighted terminals and bad practice
a pro rigger uses his eye, experience plus a camera ..very important
you the client..and the insurance company have access to these rig survey photos and the riggers report
robtoujours
Communist
Yup, someone uploaded the "Inspecting your rig" video by Brion Toss on YT a while back, worth a watch - there are 5 parts.
Ajax
Super Anarchist
The one thing I dread about re-rigging, is safely taking down the furler. I have a Harken Mk I Unit 0. Long obsolete, no parts to be found if I screw up the foil.
It works perfectly and I don't have money to upgrade it just for the sake of upgrading it.
It works perfectly and I don't have money to upgrade it just for the sake of upgrading it.
slug zitski
Banned
- Banned
- #38
Don’t know that unit
furlers are long lasting …serviceable
you need to ask harken…foil splices, bearings …
sometimes. you loose….Reckman , the super expensive stuff, change thier foil construction to nose and tail sections …expensive to adapt
furlers are long lasting …serviceable
you need to ask harken…foil splices, bearings …
sometimes. you loose….Reckman , the super expensive stuff, change thier foil construction to nose and tail sections …expensive to adapt
slug zitski
Banned
- Banned
- #39
Yikes…at about a minute in , when that video snowflake referred to a Norseman terminal as a NorsePerson terminal , I shut it down
robtoujours
Communist
He was making a joke! Also that's Brion Toss, he wrote a book about rigging you might have heard of??
