It's no big thang (having done it a few times). Just be slow and gentle. You need at least 3 and preferably 4 people.The one thing I dread about re-rigging, is safely taking down the furler.
It’s a shame …S and S , on thier website previously had a file called “ type plans “. A fantastic collection of design details like fuel tank sumps, sea chest design , companionways , steering systems , stem heads , anchor rollers….the best knowledge from a lifetime spent designing the best boatsI'll paste this in an email to myself or something. Thanks.
Yah@Zonker, why make the mast guy do the hard work? Whenever I've lowered a furler the person on deck removes the lower clevis pin first.
@Ajax, if you are going to replace all the standing rigging you're going to have the mast unstepped right? so just let a boatyard deal with the furler and then it's their problem if it gets damaged. Also the mki foils are the same as the mkiii foils, with differences in shiny-ness (assuming you dont have the old roll-pin foils). Parts aren't available from Harken necessarily but some rigging shops might have some spare connectors or foils about.
I installed a new furler with three people - key is a few hands, not bending the foils, and being tied alongside a long dock.I'll paste this in an email to myself or something. Thanks.
But the chafe scares me.
Many times that’s a fools gameActually, I intend to replace the rigging "in situ" as I did with my Pearson 30.
I think the only tricky ones are the uppers. Rigger suggested I do those with mast down, so I did. The rest I’ve been doing piece by piece in situ. (I did more or less rebuild/rewire/repaint mast previously when it was down earlier, before I did the uppers.)Actually, I intend to replace the rigging "in situ" as I did with my Pearson 30.
Agreed. I think the bottom swages act like little buckets, catching water and accumulating salt (or freezing in my part of the world). How did the wire stands look when you opened them up to install the long-stud Sta-loks?I am glad to see he recommends the Sta-Lok system I used to replace the lower swages on my rigging, and that he recommends filling the Sta-Lok with goop to prevent salt water getting in there, which is what I am convinced caused the wires to begin breaking at the bottom swages on my boat.