Flying Tiger
- Thread starter Jerryd
- Start date
the boat came with with a smaller assym. I haven't yet explored options for a symm chute.
Kapt'n Kirk
Member
- 492
- 10
http://www.seaboats.net/new-build-9m-sport-sailing-yacht-.-xidp1423978.html
Are these the new FT? Same yard?
Are these the new FT? Same yard?
marcus brutus
Member
- Banned
- #286
NO !
If you want to purchase a new FT10, go to
http://www.hanshengyacht.com/content/index/91\
or PM me for a lead to the available used FT10s in the USA.
darth reapius
Super Anarchist
Anyone replace the Facnor STG furler that came with the boat? I have problems with it furling tight enough at the top, seem like in any sort or wind it begins to unfurl and flap, resulting in having to take the jib out before I destroy the sail. I want to keep the furl option so I want to put a Facnor Flat deck furler in its place. Anyone running one of these? Or just using as adjustable forstay eliminating the original STG? I think it would be nice to be able to reef in the headsail, thoughts?????
RumTumTigga
New member
I took the fuller off mine and replaced it with a Twin Track Tuff Luff forestay system. Using this we can easily peel to different jib sizes depending upon wind strength.
Using a furler to decrease sail area on a jib results in the presented sail shape becoming horrible and inefficient. In our fleet here we race against a couple of J Boats with furlers and all the furler is used for by them is rolling away the jib after the Genaker is set. I am guessing, but I suspect that same reason is originally why furlers were fitted to FT10's.
RTT
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How do you like the Tuff Luff? I haven't ruled that out but having a vertical batten head sail is a nightmare on the deck, or are you leaving the jib up off the wind? My only reason for considering the Flat deck furler is being able to reef quickly plus keep the sail furled while off the wind. Its also considerably cheaper than a new #2 and #4.
I had a tuff luff foil and am now using harkin as well. It works well for us. I think most of the racing FT10s have gotten rid of their furlers and have gone to just hank-on. Sail goes up and down pretty easy either way. An extra step for the bowman to tie-down if windy, but not really a big deal. A sail maker can change the vertical battens to horizontal, but it may not be worth it if its an old sail. I would not count on the furler for reefing. Way way better to get a smaller sail or reef the main. With the foil, the sail change will be a lot easier. It would better to save the money that you would spend on replacing the furler and put it towards a new sail. Up to about 18knots the full Jib should be ok if it's not blown out. After that, an 80% jib or flatter heavy jib is what I think most do.
DSE thanks for the advice! I have brand new sails that I haven’t taken out of the bag. I actually opted not to purchase a heavy weather (80%) jib because I had planned on installing a flat deck furler. I guess if the only reason for the furler on the tiger is to just get it out of the way of the kite then maybe I’ll rethink my options. I did have the new main built with two reef points as that seems to me where most of the over powering stems from. Maybe I’ll look into a smaller jib.
zks7
Member
Congrats on acquiring the new Tiger. Which boat did you get and where are you sailing/located?
Hey fellas
We just bought a FT10
....pretty stoked!
Im very familiar with 6 winch set-up on bigger boats, but any advice on how to set up the A-sail sheeting with this one would be appreciated.
esp....where the sheets would locate for the dropped Jib, and how to get it back on the main winch.
Sorry if this is obvious, but I'm re-learning smaller boats again.
cheers
We just bought a FT10
....pretty stoked!
Im very familiar with 6 winch set-up on bigger boats, but any advice on how to set up the A-sail sheeting with this one would be appreciated.
esp....where the sheets would locate for the dropped Jib, and how to get it back on the main winch.
Sorry if this is obvious, but I'm re-learning smaller boats again.
cheers
Zks7
i have hull #26, I bought her in 2017 and have been racing on Lake Ontario in upstate NY. I’ve been getting her back into shape with new sails, fresh bottom and getting all the instruments back up running. Hoping to take her to a Block Island or to the Chicago Mac someday.
i have hull #26, I bought her in 2017 and have been racing on Lake Ontario in upstate NY. I’ve been getting her back into shape with new sails, fresh bottom and getting all the instruments back up running. Hoping to take her to a Block Island or to the Chicago Mac someday.
crashtestdummy
Anarchist
- 838
- 38
Which one did you buy?
So....back to the question
Im very familiar with 6 winch set-up on bigger boats, but any advice on how to set up the A-sail sheeting with this one would be appreciated.
esp....where the sheets would locate for the dropped Jib, and how to get it back on the main winch.
Sorry if this is obvious, but I'm re-learning smaller boats again.
Im very familiar with 6 winch set-up on bigger boats, but any advice on how to set up the A-sail sheeting with this one would be appreciated.
esp....where the sheets would locate for the dropped Jib, and how to get it back on the main winch.
Sorry if this is obvious, but I'm re-learning smaller boats again.
It's very simple.
Jib sheeting is best done cross winched with a turning block located about 6inches (150mm) aft and outboard of the aft corners of the coach roofs. The turning block in this position means that the jib can also be led to the lee side winch should circumstances require.
Asso sheeting is (from the clew, though through tweakers can be helpful) to a turning block at the aft most stanchion base then forwards to a turning block at the next stanchion base forwards. Lead from there can be to either cabin top winch (high side preferred so that the pit crew / grinder can stand in the companion way facing uphill) but the lead also works to either of the primary winches.
Generally speaking apart from upwind in a lot of wind the jib or spinnaker sheets can be temporarily cleated to move to a different winch just by standing on them but this is rarely neccessary.
A photo or three would explain this a whole lot better but I don't have any despite trimming on the same FT10 for the last 13 years.
Jib sheeting is best done cross winched with a turning block located about 6inches (150mm) aft and outboard of the aft corners of the coach roofs. The turning block in this position means that the jib can also be led to the lee side winch should circumstances require.
Asso sheeting is (from the clew, though through tweakers can be helpful) to a turning block at the aft most stanchion base then forwards to a turning block at the next stanchion base forwards. Lead from there can be to either cabin top winch (high side preferred so that the pit crew / grinder can stand in the companion way facing uphill) but the lead also works to either of the primary winches.
Generally speaking apart from upwind in a lot of wind the jib or spinnaker sheets can be temporarily cleated to move to a different winch just by standing on them but this is rarely neccessary.
A photo or three would explain this a whole lot better but I don't have any despite trimming on the same FT10 for the last 13 years.
