Food, fixes and notes from the casual coastal sailor.

[accnick]

Very nice working galley!

I too have a shut-off panel for the tank solenoid. I'm keeping the shut off mostly for it's elbow configuration. We need the 90-degree turn at the bulkhead behind the stove to supply; straight down at the bulkhead - straight down at the stove, for the 2' hose between to function smoothly with the gimbaled stove.

In reality, that last flare fitting is in an enlarged hole in the rear bulkhead so it is easy to test.

I'm thinking I'll add a propane sniffer of some kind, and one at home which has a restaurant range with no thermocouples.

For sure put in a sniffer. I have a hard-wired one in the kickspace beneath the stove. The alarm is in the forward cabin over my berth. You can also find any number of battery-powered models online or at big box stores or hardware stores.

For better or worse, we have detectors for propane, carbon monoxide (diesel heater), and conventional smoke, with all the loud parts in the forward cabin, where we sleep.

 

[accnick]

Very nice working galley!

It's a really nice galley for a 35' powerboat. It is mostly open to the main deckhouse, so you aren't isolated when using it, and it isn't claustrophobic. Maryann really wanted galley down for this reason. You also get good storage under the side decks outboard of the counters.

The galley doesn't eat up prime real estate in the deckhouse, which really gives us a nice "living room" for the size of the boat.

 

[Fah Kiew Tu]

You absolutely need an LPG sniffer, especially if your converted stove has no thermocouples.

This. As soon as I made the final choice of stoves and settled on LPG instead of kerosene, I also installed the combined LPG/CO sniffer. And it's hard-wired via its own fuse to the house bank so turning off the power at the master switch doesn't cut power to the sniffer.

Same as the main bilge pump. You can't turn them off other than blowing their fuses or physically removing the fuses.

FKT

 

[Kris Cringle]

This. As soon as I made the final choice of stoves and settled on LPG instead of kerosene, I also installed the combined LPG/CO sniffer. And it's hard-wired via its own fuse to the house bank so turning off the power at the master switch doesn't cut power to the sniffer.

Same as the main bilge pump. You can't turn them off other than blowing their fuses or physically removing the fuses.

FKT

The only difficulty I see is locating it low enough to be effective. What's the recommended distance from the sole/bilge?

 

[billsreef]

My sniffer is directly under my stove. Puts it close to the source. Any lower and will stepped on all the time or under the sole where it will be isolated enough to not sense a leak until it is too late.

 

[Kris Cringle]

In our last boat, the most memorable meal was a cold thanksgiving day anchored off Beaufort, on the ICW.

Memorable because the 2 burner-pressure alcohol stove had 2 saucepans stacked up on one burner, and perhaps the other one had 3 saucepans at one time.

The tips of the wings on a smallish turkey were sticking out from under the lid on a Force 10 BBQ on the stern rail.

Memories of having much less onboard are why this spare old galley is still decadent for us after 20+ seasons.

 

[accnick]

The only difficulty I see is locating it low enough to be effective. What's the recommended distance from the sole/bilge?

We have the propane sensor in the kick space under the stove/sink cabinets, so just above the cabin sole.

The stove well is pretty much the same as you would have on a sailboat, but without the gimbals.

To some extent, the layout of the area where you want to mount the sensor drives the decision of where to place it, although you almost certainly want the propane sensor below the stove installation, but near it. Looking at your installation, the face of that locker below the stove, just above the cabin sole might be a good location for one of the flush-mount models, or the transverse partition bulkhead just forward of that for a surface-mount version.

I would do a little online search for best location to mount this, or even download the instructions for one of the sniffers.

There are all kinds of these detectors available online. Most RV equipment websites have them.

Be aware that the 12v hard-wired models draw about 100 mA, so roughly 2.5 amp hours per day.

 

[Elegua]

I put one in the bilge and one under the stove. Just remember to place the one in the bilge so it won’t get wet. - and have a spare.

 

[Whinging Pom]

Dunno if these controls and sniffers are available in the US. Their LPG sensors are the only waterproof ones I know.

 

[monkphunk]

You'll also learn if your battery compartment ventilation is up to snuff. We installed a small 12 volt muffin fan to improve airflow through the passive vent from the battery box after setting the propane alarm off a few times when vigorously charging our flooded lead acid batteries. The gas sniffer alarm in particular scares the hell out of me; I don't want false positives!

Edit: Far better than false negatives though

 

[Kris Cringle]

You'll also learn if your battery compartment ventilation is up to snuff. We installed a small 12 volt muffin fan to improve airflow through the passive vent from the battery box after setting the propane alarm off a few times when vigorously charging our flooded lead acid batteries. The gas sniffer alarm in particular scares the hell out of me; I don't want false positives!

Edit: Far better than false negatives though

Yes! I wondered how sensitive they are and how often they give a false alarm.

We just had a new 8 burner range checked for a leak in a house I care for.

The leak down from the lines was negative but a faint smell came out when they opened the valve, from inside the 10K shiny stove. Called the dealer.

Then the gas guy and a friend, an EMT/ fireman started talking about a few big kaBOOM incidents in the Maine area.

Those occasions are always pretty rare and often stupid like a basement filled with LPG somewhere to the Northwest. The only survivors of that incident were the firemen in the basement, that threw the switch. Anybody above, didn't survive.

I went out and bought one and will plug it in by that range, tomorrow.

I believe the highest cause of boat fire is electrical, by far. Vapor explosions on the water are pretty rare, but to be avoided...

 

[Kris Cringle]

Anchored in the inner harbor, Gloucester Mass. at 6:38am on August 6, 2018.

Gloucester harbor, 1880. Imagine the bar scene at night.

 

[Kris Cringle]

I love boat models (who doesn't). My favorites are Pond yachts. Usually more utilitarian in design and finish, the real ones often show the abuse of actual use, often by children.

My partner picked one up at of all places, the local plant and tree nursery. A fairly big operation, they display seasonal wares, many vintage, as well as plants.

She spied this and couldn't resist at the price (plus we get a 25% business discount added making the total around $65).

Not a beautiful or ornate pond yacht, this one probably sold fairly cheaply in 1956. It reminds me of toy boats sold around Barnegat Bay in the early 60's where I spent some time then.

It has the usual missing and broken bits, sewing thread rigging put on recently. But the hull is surprisingly well preserved and the paint looks original.

There is an odd tiller arrangement; rearward facing. Not sure how it was rigged or if it had a backstay at all.

But here is the tiller with the only identification: Still in one piece but loose on the rudder post (an obvious attempt the solder, failed). I take this that it was built in Essex Fells N.J. in 1956, #47 (either design# or # built)

It appears to be designed to sail with a flattish hull and deep keel. The sheet keel with a lead bulb has a simple 1/4" bend that allows it to be screwed to the hull. The stand looks original.

I can't find any info on the web about it. Anyway, we love these things around the house. A sailboat shape is one of the most pleasing art forms.

For those interested in the iPhone 14 pro max, these photos were taken with it. The lenses are great coming from a standard 11. Much more versatile for me, the resolution is about the same for these shots. But the 14 can shoot in RAW, which is important to me for that occasional shot you know is a keeper.

 

[Mid]

For those interested in the iPhone 14 pro max, these photos were taken with it. The lenses are great coming from a standard 11. Much more versatile for me, the resolution is about the same for these shots. But the 14 can shoot in RAW, which is important to me for that occasional shot you know is a keeper.

buy a fokin Ad

 

[Ajax]

@Kris Cringle a family friend just put an offer in on a very old home in Rockland. I will point her in your direction in case she needs any home repairs/upgrades. Even if you don't want the work, I'm sure you can point her in the right direction.

It is entirely conceivable that she'll be moved in before I sail up there this summer. That means that we'll have a person with a home and vehicle in the area to mooch off of.

 

[Whinging Pom]

The rear facing tiller is so a rubber band can be attached to restrain the pull from the mainsheet. It's a primitive self-steering gear. My first sailing boat was like this, which I spent many a happy time walking after by The Round Pond in Kensington Gardens, London.

Don't oversheet the sails or the boat will get stuck in irons all the time and you'll be very late back home and your mother will be worried!

 

[accnick]

I love boat models (who doesn't). My favorites are Pond yachts. Usually more utilitarian in design and finish, the real ones often show the abuse of actual use, often by children.

My partner picked one up at of all places, the local plant and tree nursery. A fairly big operation, they display seasonal wares, many vintage, as well as plants.

She spied this and couldn't resist at the price (plus we get a 25% business discount added making the total around $65).



Not a beautiful or ornate pond yacht, this one probably sold fairly cheaply in 1956. It reminds me of toy boats sold around Barnegat Bay in the early 60's where I spent some time then.

It has the usual missing and broken bits, sewing thread rigging put on recently. But the hull is surprisingly well preserved and the paint looks original.

There is an odd tiller arrangement; rearward facing. Not sure how it was rigged or if it had a backstay at all.

But here is the tiller with the only identification: Still in one piece but loose on the rudder post (an obvious attempt the solder, failed). I take this that it was built in Essex Fells N.J. in 1956, #47 (either design# or # built)




It appears to be designed to sail with a flattish hull and deep keel. The sheet keel with a lead bulb has a simple 1/4" bend that allows it to be screwed to the hull. The stand looks original.


I can't find any info on the web about it. Anyway, we love these things around the house. A sailboat shape is one of the most pleasing art forms.

For those interested in the iPhone 14 pro max, these photos were taken with it. The lenses are great coming from a standard 11. Much more versatile for me, the resolution is about the same for these shots. But the 14 can shoot in RAW, which is important to me for that occasional shot you know is a keeper.

I have a simple little pond yacht I bought at a yard sale near our boatyard around 1973. No standing rigging, but the mast is stepped through the deck into a proper step. The mast appears to original--tapered at both ends, two holes for halyards at the top, as well as a cleat on the deck to secure the bitter ends.

Sails on the boat when I bought it were (and still are) just burlap triangles, but the mast has non-ferrous metal hoops for the luff of the mainsail.

Keel is simple bronze plate with lead bulb, and the keel plate has two brackets riveted to it to secure it to the hull.

The rudder is interesting in that the stock is steel, but the blade is a bronze plate. (checked all this with a magnet)

Simple wire horses for the mainsheet and jib sheet. There is an arc of indents in the deck at the forward end of the tiller to allow you to set specific rudder angles, so it was designed to sail, for sure.

Deck is tacked on with tiny non-ferrous nails. Hull is hollow, appears to be full carved-out inside.

No original stand. Just an old, simple round block of wood, flat on the bottom, with a slot in the top for the keel.

Finish appears to be shellac, and original.

Paid $20 for it at a yard sale.

I don't know how old it is. It is simple, but well made. My guess in 1973 was that is was from the 1920s, but I've never done any research on pond yachts from that period. This was probably a child's toy.

Hull is about 19" long.

 

[Kris Cringle]

I have a simple little pond yacht I bought at a yard sale near our boatyard around 1973. No standing rigging, but the mast is stepped through the deck into a proper step. The mast appears to original--tapered at both ends, two holes for halyards at the top, as well as a cleat on the deck to secure the bitter ends.

Sails on the boat when I bought it were (and still are) just burlap triangles, but the mast has non-ferrous metal hoops for the luff of the mainsail.

Keel is simple bronze plate with lead bulb, and the keel plate has two brackets riveted to it to secure it to the hull.

The rudder is interesting in that the stock is steel, but the blade is a bronze plate. (checked all this with a magnet)

Simple wire horses for the mainsheet and jib sheet. There is an arc of indents in the deck at the forward end of the tiller to allow you to set specific rudder angles, so it was designed to sail, for sure.

Deck is tacked on with tiny non-ferrous nails. Hull is hollow, appears to be full carved-out inside.

No original stand. Just an old, simple round block of wood, flat on the bottom, with a slot in the top for the keel.

Finish appears to be shellac, and original.

Paid $20 for it at a yard sale.

I don't know how old it is. It is simple, but well made. My guess in 1973 was that is was from the 1920s, but I've never done any research on pond yachts from that period. This was probably a child's toy. View attachment 563183

Hull is about 19" long.

Interesting that the hull is hollow.

Then I checked this one, it is hollow as well. I assumed the deck pattern was just cut into the solid hull. The deck is about 1/4" clear pine by looks.

What would be the purpose of hollowing out the hulls except to remove weight up high?

Do you suppose there were rabid competitors in the pond yacht world?

 

[mgs]

Interesting that the hull is hollow.

Then I checked this one, it is hollow as well. I assumed the deck pattern was just cut into the solid hull. The deck is about 1/4" clear pine by looks.

What would be the purpose of hollowing out the hulls except to remove weight up high?

Do you suppose there were rabid competitors in the pond yacht world?

Serious enough racing that a mouse was hired on as a sailor in Central Park.

 

[accnick]

Interesting that the hull is hollow.

Then I checked this one, it is hollow as well. I assumed the deck pattern was just cut into the solid hull. The deck is about 1/4" clear pine by looks.

What would be the purpose of hollowing out the hulls except to remove weight up high?

Do you suppose there were rabid competitors in the pond yacht world?

I wonder in the days before radio control. Probably plenty of straight-line competition, at the very least.

You know what they say: if you have two sailboats in the same place, you have a race, even if only one of them knows it.

There still are rabid competitors in the model yacht world, thanks to radio control and one-design/level classes. Here's just one example: