Help me spec a new rig
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Black Jack
Super Anarchist
How tender is the boat? Appears to need some flesh on the rail.
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- #43
Not especially. The rig is not huge for the LOA and there is a decent size L-bulb (not the modern IRC type fin). Fundamentally a cruiser / racer, not like a Farr 30.
That pic is taken with an old main; the 2016 one is smaller and optimised for SH - Norths recommended a shorter E and slightly more roach up top.
Black Jack
Super Anarchist
^ I found that a shorter E and increased roach top has made a difference on my 1/2 tonner. In the windy San Francisco bay, it has proven to be quite effective. This next year - we will test the new set of sails, enhanced rig and setup against faster, newer boats. It really has become more of an endurance test of the crew rather than the boat. Not getting bashed and feeling beat up means we are more likely to finish.
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- #45
Having done a bit more research the carbon option is increasingly interesting. The Z-spars recommended Z351 profile weighs about 3.4 kg/m whereas the AG+ carbon equivalent is 1.9 kg/m. Back of the envelope maths suggests that's roughly equivalent to having a small person hiking on the rail (14m mast / 3m beam) before you consider any other benefits.
http://www.agplus-spars.fr/ecommerce/gb/content/14-sailing-boats-from-25-to-35-
http://www.agplus-spars.fr/ecommerce/gb/content/14-sailing-boats-from-25-to-35-
Sebyseb
Member
If you're going down the carbon route, I would check with Axxon, they are rigging a lot of boats at the RORC and are sensibly cheaper than the others.
The only thing about carbon on an older boat is that it's stiffer and you need to have stiffer sails and reinforce rigging points as well as other bits other bits. One Aphrodite 101 picked a carbon mast and added 26 meters of reinforcement in a 33 footer as it was bending a lot more....
The only thing about carbon on an older boat is that it's stiffer and you need to have stiffer sails and reinforce rigging points as well as other bits other bits. One Aphrodite 101 picked a carbon mast and added 26 meters of reinforcement in a 33 footer as it was bending a lot more....
Spoonie
Anarchist
Kincora
Member
Going carbon is nice if you can afford it. Would love to replace my Z351 with a carbon section. I did a lot of pricing and $28,000 ready to install was the lowest I could find, and lowest is rarely the best.
slug zitski
Super Anarchist
Make sure you can use a staysail, when reaching and broad reaching, to ventilate the lee side of the main
Staysail tack on centerline and tack to windward
lengthen spinpole for handling the poled out jib when running hard downwind
a leeward reaching strut to get the Genoa leed , leech tension, right when off wind
Leeward spreader roots take beating on aft swept rigs when running hard downwind , be sure they are up to the task
spi halyard chafe is an issue offshore ,refine your goggles , halyard exits
run a permanent boom preventer.. from mainsheet boom blocks , along boom , then down the vang and back to cabinnwinch ...this preventer is valuable when close reaching because it removes leech tension from the vang
broken goosenecks and vang attachments from overloading are all to common
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- #51
Just a quick Christmas update to say that I checked under the tree this morning and there was a nice new carbon stick for the boat there. Thanks for all input on this thread
She’s also getting a bit of love underwater (new rudder bearings, sanding back 24 years of antifoul, durepox, keel alignment) so the only excuse for lack of results next year will be my sailing abilities!
will post pics of the process if any interest.
She’s also getting a bit of love underwater (new rudder bearings, sanding back 24 years of antifoul, durepox, keel alignment) so the only excuse for lack of results next year will be my sailing abilities!
will post pics of the process if any interest.
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- #53
not sure why it’s sideways but here is the hull after a good deal of sanding. Green is some kind of barrier coat and you can see some grey and several layers of hempel hard racing black antifoul. Thanks to Tim at Race Yacht Services for doing the hard work.
Green & Grey will be most likely be Gelshield. Shame to sand though it.
Just wondering how a keel alignment works? Are you talking fore & aft, or side to side? My keel bolts are pretty snug so I don't know how much 'adjustability' a keel should have.
Make sure to post pics of the new stick.
Just wondering how a keel alignment works? Are you talking fore & aft, or side to side? My keel bolts are pretty snug so I don't know how much 'adjustability' a keel should have.
Make sure to post pics of the new stick.
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- #55
It is most likely Gelshield - given the age though we are taking it all the way back (almost 30 kgs off). Boat is dry sailed so will have durepox and no AF.
To align the keel (and rudder, saildrive and rig) you first get the lasers out. Then it is a process of conforming the mating surfaces and scraping out old bedding compound such that it lands in the right place when you tighten the bolts. Saildrive you can shift the engine around on its mounts if need be
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- #58
Yes - I had also noticed a bit of that, though it was partly due to the rig issues upthread.
The other advantages of having the keel off are to take a good look at the bolts and hull structure as well as to weigh it to help with the IRC bulb weight field and get an Rm calc for the new rig. My certificate says ‘default’ at the moment which I suspect is penalising the rating.
All the 920s (there are 3-4) had keels changed after launch in the CHS/IRC crossover.
The other advantages of having the keel off are to take a good look at the bolts and hull structure as well as to weigh it to help with the IRC bulb weight field and get an Rm calc for the new rig. My certificate says ‘default’ at the moment which I suspect is penalising the rating.
All the 920s (there are 3-4) had keels changed after launch in the CHS/IRC crossover.
So as not to blow the faired profile away? I actually don't know.
I'd thought of dropping mine to take a good look at the studs, but since its lead then they're no doubt J bolts cast in place, I can't really inspect past what's poking out.
I'm interested to find out how far off square your keel / rudder are. What do they use a reference point?
