Captain Ketamine
Anarchist
I presume the Ballistol is for the only tool you need… “toolbox in a holster”
How to Keep Tools From Rusting Onboard?
- Thread starter Israel Hands
- Start date
SASSAFRASS
Super Anarchist
Gotta be careful with that one. Used to wrap our hand planes like that and would grease our big lug crimpers and roll a old wool socks over. Was fine when using regularly but after a while of no use they all turned into rust balls and took a bunch of cleaning.
Grizz
Beats the crap out of me
In the shop I use Japanese camellia oil. haven’t tried it on the boat yet, but It’s great for planes, chisels, etc. https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/EE-785-CO9.XX
Grande Mastere Dreade
Snag's spellchecker
you don't even need the engine oil, used to spray the under-carriage of cars in the NE with kerosene to keep the salt and rusting at bay.. worked great..
ROADKILL666
Super Anarchist
Corrosion x
Israel Hands
Super Anarchist
- Thread starter
- #26
Well shit, guys, I ordered Ballistol, and then you late f'ers tell me about Corrosion X. Think it's better than Ballistol?
DriftingWithoutGrifting
Member
I just use break-free CLP. For regular tools, I give them a quick wipe down after use (sometimes) and toss the rag back in the toolbag along with the tools.
For drill bits, oscillator blades, etc. I have become fond of the 'lock & lock' brand of kitchen containers. They fasten very sturdily, seem to be resistant to CLP (a few years of testing) and are absolutely air tight. Useful for smaller electronics type items too - although obviously don't spray a bunch of CLP in the box with those!
For drill bits, oscillator blades, etc. I have become fond of the 'lock & lock' brand of kitchen containers. They fasten very sturdily, seem to be resistant to CLP (a few years of testing) and are absolutely air tight. Useful for smaller electronics type items too - although obviously don't spray a bunch of CLP in the box with those!
Grande Mastere Dreade
Snag's spellchecker
Pertinacious Tom
Importunate Member
WD40 doesn't leave much behind when it evaporates because it was designed not to. That does make it a cleaner option than my approach.
Because I only play with small boats these days, tools in the box are only used when necessary. Otherwise, they're stationary objects that never get touched. If I have to touch one, I get glom on my hands. Oh well. WD gets it off and one of the little spray cans lives in the tool box.
I don't do this to my regular tools. Those get a light coat of oil because the air is full of salt here. Interesting point above about two stroke oil. It is made to stick better but I've never used it on tools. Maybe I'll start.
Captain Ketamine
Anarchist
Use whatever oily shit you have to hand, be that sump oil, wd 40, ballistol, Kerro, grease, whatever. Probably not KY Jelly. Wrap it up in a “tool wrap” if you want or plastic bag. You’ll have to wipe it off after. Nothing is fool proof. I seem to recall an a approach that retreating armies would do to protect firearms they would bury on the off chance that on return they would be able recover workable armaments. Grease +++ wrapped in grease proof paper was one (WW1 /2). I’d be interested to hear/ read what current forces would suggest.
Captain Ketamine
Anarchist
Having said that. I use Ballistol mainly to clean the outside of firearms. ( black powder flintlock and percussion cap stuff). But I still tend to use WD40 for the lock and moving parts.
If you are going down the line of “Last Tango In Paris” and are reaching for the butter it might not be a good long term choice as it will go rancid.
I wonder about a lot of modern lubricants and whether the additives to a petroleum/ synthetic base can be used on everything or really only a limited role.
there always seems to be another expensive wonder spray around the corner. Not alot of independent comparison.
all the best with your corroding implements…
If you are going down the line of “Last Tango In Paris” and are reaching for the butter it might not be a good long term choice as it will go rancid.
I wonder about a lot of modern lubricants and whether the additives to a petroleum/ synthetic base can be used on everything or really only a limited role.
there always seems to be another expensive wonder spray around the corner. Not alot of independent comparison.
all the best with your corroding implements…
Sailabout
Super Anarchist
Pertinacious Tom
Importunate Member
Heh. Reminds me of my uncle, who declared "Oil's oil!" as he splashed the residual oil in a sardine tin all over his body.
Cosmoline. Been around since the 1870s but recently the military has switched to PET film wraps, easier to clean up.
Really this is a problem? I've got tools over 50 years old mostly with no rust or a minor rust sheen kept in a plastic sealed ammo box and have never oiled/treated them with stuff. My shoreside tools in an old craftsman metal toolbox have fared well also. Could be the San Diego weather plays a role, as it's the go to antique car buyer's mecca due to no rust damage.
DriftingWithoutGrifting
Member
Being near salt water, and ensuring that tools are reasonably readily available makes a difference. Bolt cutters - yes, smeared in grease and reasonably close if they are ever needed. Day-to-day tools, and or once a week or once a month tools, different deal. Once again - regular old CLP and keeping a light coat on even if you want to grab a paper towel again before using them is cheap and just works. As others have noted above - any kind of oily lubricant will work just fine. WD-40 is great to get water off, not so great for protection. I just like the CLP just 'cuz', not a specific recommendation.
