How To Remove Deadlights?

[occams_razor]

Going to be replacing our bridgedeck deadlights. Ten total, approx 2’x2’ each. They are installed with adhesive and an inner border of spacer tape/gasket tape. Unsure of what the adhesive is but I’m assuming it’s one of the usual DowSil/SikaFlex glazing adhesives. Any tips or thoughts on how to remove them? Ideally I’d like them to come off in one piece since I was planning on using the old ones to template the replacements.

 

[Marcjsmith]

got any pics... any chance of getting some heavy thin line between the window and cabin and then use the line to "cut" the tape" like a saw kind of like this guys doing on the video

 

[occams_razor]

Thanks @Marcjsmith. I'd initially ruled that out but thinking about it now it might be possible if I start from the outside deadlights and work in, otherwise there's no access as they're all butted against each other. It's on my list for next time I'm at the boat to get some pics, will post once I've got them.

 

[Marcjsmith]

thin flexible drywall joint knife or a drywall taping knife or flexible fillet knife couple with a heat gun to soften things up some. use a hammer and tap the flexible edged tool between the glass and deck I'm assuming that they are surface mounted and not recessed.

also look for a cable saw. Irrigation guys use themto cut PVC basiccaly a multi strand steel cable. upside its its a bit more agressive that the braided monofilment down side is that it a bitmore aggressive so it could damage important surfaces.

if you end up breaking one, keep all the pieces, glue it back together for your patterns

once you get an edge cut and pentrate the sticky goo it should get easier. Cold weathermay help you out to reduce the grip the adhesive has... but will make the glass more brittle as well..

 

[Zonker]

Are they in recesses or mounted flush on top of a surface? If the first you have my sympathy.

Utility knife, flush plug cutting saw (has teeth offset to one side only so don't mar the surface you are cutting against), putty knife and heat gun are all tools I have used for this kind of job.

 

[jsaronson]

Debond to loosen the adhesive?

 

[Feisty!]

I've had good luck using an "Oscillating Multi-Tool" with either a wide blade or saw depending on the consistency of the smoodge

 

[Zonker]

Yeah just came back to write that!

I think "Debond" works well with 5200 or Sika type polyurethanes but I have no idea if it works on silicones

 

[See Level]

Apply dish soap to any cutting blade you choose (you'll probably use a variety of them) to help reduce blade friction from the sealant and keep the sealant from trying to stick back together

 

[gkny]

A thin flexible serrated knife worked for me. I could still work it when it was flexed and this gave me a bit more room when the angles were difficult

 

[slug zitski]

Going to be replacing our bridgedeck deadlights. Ten total, approx 2’x2’ each. They are installed with adhesive and an inner border of spacer tape/gasket tape. Unsure of what the adhesive is but I’m assuming it’s one of the usual DowSil/SikaFlex glazing adhesives. Any tips or thoughts on how to remove them? Ideally I’d like them to come off in one piece since I was planning on using the old ones to template the replacements.

You remove windows by breaking the bond with a cheese cutter .. home made , wire or strong thread works fine

Google for instructions

 

[voodoochile]

Need pics.

 

[Chrick]

I haven't tackled this yet but need to - the forward two starboard side deadlights on my J/44 leak significantly when splashed by waves (seem to be fine in rain). They're recessed, embedded in some unknown black flexible sealant. My plan is pretty much what's been described: warm the area with a heater or heat gun, dig out some of the sealant, try to get a wire of any description through from outside to in, and use that to break the seal. I'm not expecting it to be fun, but hoping for satisfying. I'll read here for updates, and once I get to it (a couple of months, likely) I'll post with my own experience.

 

[SloopJonB]

I removed 10 bronze ports from a derelict wood cruiser. They were solidly embedded in what I think was Thiokol. I used a razor knife in from the outside around the spigot and around from the side on the inner flange.

It took many rounds for each cut but they eventually came free.

I didn't have to worry about scratching the surrounding surfaces but if I did I would mask them with tape - probably would have to replace it a time or three as it got worn.

Very tedious but I got all 10 out in a day.

 

[Crash]

I haven't tackled this yet but need to - the forward two starboard side deadlights on my J/44 leak significantly when splashed by waves (seem to be fine in rain). They're recessed, embedded in some unknown black flexible sealant. My plan is pretty much what's been described: warm the area with a heater or heat gun, dig out some of the sealant, try to get a wire of any description through from outside to in, and use that to break the seal. I'm not expecting it to be fun, but hoping for satisfying. I'll read here for updates, and once I get to it (a couple of months, likely) I'll post with my own experience.

That black sealant likely Dow 795...those ports are mounted on a recessed, inwards turning 90 degree flange. You are going to need to be able to get at them from both the outside and the inside to cut the sealant. A thin, flexible, serrated blade of some sort and heat likely will work best...are you planning to install new portlights? Or re-use old ones. Lots of tape and patience if re-using old ones.

 

[longy]

I think you'll be way better to just plan on replacing the plastic. Then you can just break/cut out the plastic, use vice grips to pull the pieces off the caulking, etc. Done in minutes, not hours.
If you really want to re-use the plastic, I'd figure out some way to put some force pushing out on the plastic - might open up just enuff gap to get tools into

 

[Chrick]

Good thoughts - hadn't even considered sacrificing the plastic, but now I think I'll give it heat, slicing/digging and pressure from inside (had actually thought of that also, at one point) - and if it's not seeming like it's going my way in short order I'll demo and regroup afterward. Good plan, and might prove satisfying if the initial attempt gets too frustrating!