I regressed to 6th grade (and started drawing boats during lunch)

zedboy

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Eastern Med
When I was 12 I used to draw boats all the time. I think I was channelling Ted Gozzard, because they usually had clipper bows and full keels. There might still be a drawing in a box in my dad's attic, will have to see if I can find it next time I'm down there.

I started drawing a 25' boat with hard chines for plywood construction during lunch on Monday, and by yesterday I had found FreeShip and transferred the lines. Inspirations are Pogo's, and those RM Yachts people for the plywood boats. Goal is a fast, fun boat with small-family cruising space (6' headroom, enclosed head, sleeping 4+) and SA/D around 22-23 (maybe more? could always make the rig bigger!). Beam kept to 8' (at the expense of pizza-slice-ness) - goal is to be trailerable. Not for offshore use...

Revision 1.gif

Revision 1 - hand drawn.jpg

Things still to be worked out:

  • Before anything else: are the super-hard chines a major mistake? Will it track funny if it heels beyond 15 degrees or so and starts to cut in on the hard chine?
  • I marked a 1' W/L (not including keel), which gives ~2T displacement. My goal is a bit lighter, about 1.5T, and the "rocker" from the lowest part of the hull to the ends looks a little too steep to me, so I'm going to drop the fore and aft knuckles about 6" and see where that extra volume leaves the W/L.
  • I haven't drawn a keel here, but I was envisioning a pretty heavy daggerboard (with a bulb?), race-boat style. Would a ~1000lb keel/bulb be way too heavy for any normal winch setup to lift? Maybe should go to shoal-draft fin and swing keel - advantage is swing keel folds out of the way on grounding, disadvantage for trailer-launching and righting moment.
  • LCF is about 10.5' forward of stern, which means if the keel is in the pocket I've shown built into the head walls (idea stolen from one of the McG 26's) it will cause down-trim...how much?
  • Would 6' of bilge space be enough to build stiff-enough lateral stringers in the cabin sole? Need to raise the coachroof about 6" to get to 6' headroom..
  • Need to think about mast placement, current goal is deck-stepped above station 3, have to work out where that will put CE and how that will translate to the sail area I want (somewhere in the 250-350 sq.f. range)
  • How wide do people like their cockpit soles? More than 2' seems too wide to brace on the opposite bench. How about the benches themselves - width and depth? I could reduce cockpit volume and potentially make reasonable space for coffin-berths by raising the benches and sole.
  • I have drawn 1' side decks, maybe should widen a bit to 1.5'?
  • Would a little bit of bulge (I have drawn 6") of the fore coachroof be annoying to working on the foredeck?

Have to think through the weights/materials amounts more carefully, but I think the hull (minus keel) with all hardware + rigging can be kept under 1T. Also have to work out building time, but I would hope for max 200 hours...am I nuts?

 

zedboy

Member
257
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Eastern Med
this might give you some good ideas...

http://www.dixdesign.com/26didi.htm
Yeah, that's a nice technique for doing the radiused hull. I was ab initio looking to do chines (and only a few!) to make the hull build really easy. Otherwise very similar goals, except I've got a bug in my head about headroom. Sweet looking boats though.

Will have to look at their stuff on lifting keels though, seems like it could be very relevant.

 
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