ILCA gives LPE the boot... seeking new Laser builder
- Thread starter Wess
- Start date
RobbieB
Super Anarchist
RobbieB
Super Anarchist
Wess is the ILCA Super Duper Secret Sock Puppet on the Super Duper Secret ILCA payroll. He's currently hanging out at the ILCA Super Duper Secret resort with his toes in the sand, a rum drink in his hand and a keyboard on his lap promoting his non-promotion of the class and running up our page/click count. We've never had so much press!
RobbieB
Super Anarchist
Hi Fred, tried to send you a message but it won't go.
I have a repair question for you that I know you can give good advice on. A couple of weekends ago all 6 rivets on my boom gooseneck sheered in half.
Do I use SS rivets or Aluminum ones to put the gooseneck back on? (old ones were aluminum but only lasted 3-4 years). I sail in salt water so I'm worried about the dissimilar metals corroding thing. I have that non-corrosion paste to use either way.
Which rivet should I use?
Thanks,
RobbieB
Super Anarchist
Taken from the RS Aero thread:
I hope it was a second Aero from LCYC and not Chuck's. Thought I might just head to Kolius in Houston and buy a new one. Special order, apparently. 8-10 weeks after order, but with the plague, who really knows how long. Guess I'll just take a wait and see for now.
So Wess- How is this different from the ILCA evil empire, (other than MORE expensive and NOW longer to get a new boat?).
I hope it was a second Aero from LCYC and not Chuck's. Thought I might just head to Kolius in Houston and buy a new one. Special order, apparently. 8-10 weeks after order, but with the plague, who really knows how long. Guess I'll just take a wait and see for now.
So Wess- How is this different from the ILCA evil empire, (other than MORE expensive and NOW longer to get a new boat?).
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Gouvernail
Lottsa people don’t know I’m famous
As long as the gooseneck is off the mast, my response is to install the thing so it will never need attention again
I use six #10 x 1 1/2” pan head machine screws, washers, and nylon insert lock nuts
I install the fasteners from the inside out so the pan heads, and washers are inside the mast.
before installation , I squeeze the washers against the inside of the mast to pre-curve them to match the inside of the mast
the trick is to use something like a piece of 1/2” pvc pipe.
lie the pipe outside the mast with its end at the edge of the hole through which you want to put your first fastener and mark the pipe so you will know how far to insert the pipe
make certain your gooseneck holes all line up with the mast holes. You should be able to easily stick all six in place through the gooseneck from the outside. If the gooseneck is bent a little, you need to straighten it out before proceeding. The fasteners must “drop in place.”
tape the fastener and washer to the end of the pipe with a single layer of masking tape. You don’t want the fastener and washer to fall off, but you do want it to be easy to pull the pipe loose once the fastener is in place
Slide the pipe inside the mast the right distance and you will be amazed how easily you can get the screw to come out through the hole.
Slide the gooseneck in place over the first fastener and start a nut on the end so it won’t fall off.
Put the other five screws and washer sets in place with all the nuts started.
leaving them loose while you start the others let’s you wiggle the gooseneck and makes it easier to poke the fastener out through the hole
next step . DO NOT MANGLE THE THREADS!!
maybe you should practice on a machine screw you are not going to use.
Grab the machine screws with Vice grips and tighten the nuts. Your first “grab” on each fastener has to be on a pert of the screw over which your nut will eventually need to be twisted. I like to grab the fastener such that I do not mess up the threads near the mast.
tge reason fir the 1 1/2” fastener is to have plenty of space to grab between the nut and the mast.
once you screw the nut down far enough to be able to grab the part which is sticking out past the nut, move the Vice grips . You can go ahead and squeeze hard on that part as those threads will never be used again
Tighten everything. Cut off the extra length of the fasteners and file the ends do they won’t be nasty sharp evil finger slicers.
We started using this system in the seventies on all sorts of things we fasten to spars. It is the very best solution for high load fittings like J-24 gooseneck and boom vang fittings.
Rivets like the original installation have what amounts to a wedge inside the spar that puts the entire load against the very inside edge of the drilled hole. The rivet eventually widens the hole a bit and the fitting becomes loose. Worse, the rivet helps crack the mast.
Cold working the holes: You do not want to wallow out the holes. That is not acceptable
when you drill the hole you make tiny little rips around the edge. TINY
You can put a small rod like a tiny screwdriver through the hole and sorta swizzle it around to try to rub the inside of the hole smooth. It won’t be proper cold working but it is better than not doing it. Proper cold working diminishes the likelihood of cracking at the holes.
note: the curved stainless backing washers system is overkill but super easy to accomplish. The ore curving is so the curving won’t happen later and cause the fasteners to become loose.
if you replace the rivet on a top section collar, placing a curved stainless washer on the inside of the mast takes the wedging load off the tube and decreases the chances of breaking at the rivet hole.
Bill5
Right now
Board skiff
Super Anarchist
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I can’t be the only one hearing rumours of a “fast” builder already.
VWAP
Super Anarchist
It happens in all classes,
With the ILCA it will be perceived differences and subliminal marketing.
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VWAP
Super Anarchist
Use Stainless with Duralac or Monel rivets. Plenty strong for the ILCA.
More importantly check to make sure there are not vertical cracks on top or bottom of the old rivet holes in the mast which will sooner or later lead to mast failure. If there are cracks repair and use for a practice spar
Emilio Castelli
Member
Even better, end to end it. The old holes at the top will not be a problem; you'll actually have a lighter mast.
E
VWAP
Super Anarchist
And some get sponsored by dealers and others who sell a specific brand. Not sure what your point is
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spankoka
Super Anarchist
tillerman
Super Anarchist
ALL
REGATTAS
MATTER
REGATTAS
MATTER
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spankoka
Super Anarchist
point taken
Bill5
Right now
According to a bunch of parents at the Youth Worlds last year, the PSA boats were faster than the LPs. No chance their kids could have been less skilled.
RobbieB
Super Anarchist
We've got a fast guy in our fleet sailing an older late 90's vanguard hull. My 2001 v hull seems plenty fast to me as I'm always hanging with and sometimes in front of 2015'ish LP hulls. Anyway, our 90's guy has an Ovi hull on order so it will be interesting to see how it improves his game when it gets here.
RobbieB
Super Anarchist
Those are radial only, (for now). We'll see if they spread across the fleets.
After yesterday that's all ya got?
