Installing a composting toilet.

[Kris Cringle]

If the blade is attached using threaded drifts, you may need to use similar construction to the original. That was the way many yacht rudders were built until all-glass rudder become common. The annual shrinking and swelling of a rudder built that way takes its toll, however.

Yeah, the toll on mine after 50 years was one broken drift and general looseness. While it was still operable,  I took that apart 10+ years ago. 

Alden in 59 designed it to be built more substantially than Pearson in the early 60's. Price of course. 

 

One of the toughest tasks was drilling out the 3/8" drift that would not come out of the mahogany. I abused a 1/2" drill with a bar clamp. That Makita drill still works 30 years on! 



The mahogany was like new. I replaced the drifts and up-sized a couple drilling out the rudder stock (that was oversized so took the increase easily). It was surprisingly easy work and fun! 



It's fascinating to learn and understand how the designers used the grainy longitudinal strength of wood spec'ing thickness here and there to handle the torque.

This one tapers into a flush covering bronze edge that finishes down to 1/2" thickness from a start of 2-2 1/2" stock at the rudder stock. 

Alden had pretty much abandoned the traditional shape of the Pearson Vanguard years before. Still has the vestiges though

All the original mahogany and bronze, just needed a couple new drifts after 50 seasons. 



It's a whole different building concept to a composite, better in many ways and a good idea for the Pearson.

But it would have required re-engineering another rudder stock that could handle a web/frame.

Some of the big old wooden tubs get composite rudders, I think this went on the Bermuda schooner. It's cheaper for a new build today I'd bet. 

The boys could spend a few thousand to have a composite built, re-engineer the rudder stock, change the shape, etc.

But it's still a Pearson Vanguard and will sail like a Pearson Vanguard, either way. 

 

[mrybas]

How’s the shitter? 

 

[Kris Cringle]

We won’t launch until June so it be a while before I can judge it. Right now, its the best head I ever owned

 

[thinwater]

That is some spectacular thread drift! Dunnies to rudders.

I don't care.

 

[Diarmuid]

That is some spectacular thread drift! Dunnies to rudders.

I don't care.

Shitter

Shutter

Rutter

Rudder

 

[Kris Cringle]

We won’t launch until June so it be a while before I can judge it. Right now, its the best head I ever owned

It has been a while and I promised to wrap this thread up in case someone finds it in the future. I closed the 'loop' and disposed of the solids bin and 're-set' the system.

In short, this installation is life-changing on a boat for us. It's so easy and head-odor free. My partner and I keep sniffing everywhere, just seabreeze in the head.

My biggest question was how it will perform for part-time users like us? My user source came from a large FB in the UK with composting toilets, mostly on narrow boats(canal boats). They assured me this wouldn't be a problem and they were right.

We've used the OGO for a month on weekends (one extended-4 day). Between those stints, I closed the boat up as usual leaving the tiny fan running 24/7 (a fraction of an Amp-hr). I probably operated the mixing motor a few extra cycles thinking that's a good thing. I think it was.

As the solids go, I never touched a thing, except that button, for a month.

As predicted by the UK group, this extended time only dried solid waste, further.

The storage was showing no signs of agitator slowing (bogging down) or giving off any odor.

Nonetheless, I changed it today. I ran the agitator for it's 2 min. cycle, slid the solids bin out. It looked the same as it did a month ago and had no smell (seriously, I checked). Put a bag over the pail, inverted, tapped, turned the cog to spin the wands. Tied the bag, about the volume of half a typical garden pail. So easy.

There was no leaking at the cog or anywhere inside the OGO. All dry and clean.

The only work is in liquid disposal. We soon ordered another 2.4 gal container. Now we just rotate taking one ashore when convenient to pour out in a safe place. We found we'll need to do that every other day if full-time on the boat. Also, the only odors are from the liquid container when you take it out. Tighten the cap and it's gone.

A couple sprays with the enclosed spray bottle, filled with water and a squirt of a natural plant based dish soap, over the liquid divertor after use, is all the cleaning we've needed. I quickly adapted to sitting and now it's second nature. For onboard sanitation, compared to our marine head and holding systems, we can't find a downside

That's the end.

 

[Ajax]

Refresh my memory- What are you using for "media?"
Is there a method for agitating if the motor or power fails such as an emergency knob?
Is there any risk of liquid spillage while sailing if the container is say, 2 gallons (out of 2.4 gallons) full?

That thing is mighty tempting. I'd love to remove my holding tank and open up that space for additional storage or replace the tank for a 3rd potable water tank.

I still need to measure 18.5" of height in my head to see if that'll fit but looking at your photo, I'm concerned about the width as well. You have a rectangular toilet in a rectangular space. My space is really tight and oblong, crammed against the mast.

 

[Kris Cringle]

Refresh my memory- What are you using for "media?"
Is there a method for agitating if the motor or power fails such as an emergency knob?
Is there any risk of liquid spillage while sailing if the container is say, 2 gallons (out of 2.4 gallons) full?

That thing is mighty tempting. I'd love to remove my holding tank and open up that space for additional storage or replace the tank for a 3rd potable water tank.

I still need to measure 18.5" of height in my head to see if that'll fit but looking at your photo, I'm concerned about the width as well. You have a rectangular toilet in a rectangular space. My space is really tight and oblong, crammed against the mast.

Coco coir bricks. I bought a pack of 5. Each is individually wrapped. I put one in a bucket, add 2 quarts of water and let it sit. That is on the dry side to start (too dry and it doesn't all break up) but I add a bit of water in the OGO, while mixing, if needed.

If there is a failure of the 12volt motor, you have to use your winch handle: Lift the lid and start mixing,...Joking aside, you could use anything to mix the medium. The mixing action and duration has turned out to be our favorite feature of this thing.

Seriously though, I rely on so many 12VDC motors in my life, most of which would be much more of a problem. They never let me down. But if the electric side is to Ajax that wood is to Jud, you probably should try to find a manual composter.

Interesting question on the urine tank that I hadn't considered. The saddle design would require near full and severe heel.

Now that I think of it, the full light goes off at about 3/4. If you're doing some boisterous sailing, that would be the time to change the tank and the reason to have 2 tanks onboard.

All the this design, saddle tank, electric mixing, is what helps the design achieve the short footprint. If length isn't a problem a C-head might work?

 

[joeording]

Happy Airhead user here, we put one on our SC50 when we lived aboard. It's a tall unit and the SC has a riser for the head, luckily we are tall but for short people you might want a step. The pee tank is a bit on the small size, we had a spare (and a spare #2 tank) so we could swap them out and deal with the waste later. Ran the vent hose up to a mushroom vent on the cabin top that was already there, never had any smell issues. The sight glass on the pee jug was hard to read so I tied a cheap flashlight onto the handle so I could illuminate the tank and see where the level was.

 

[SASSAFRASS]

Well, I might actually go for this. We need to replace our head and the OGO is quiet a bit farther along than the airhead and nature's way that we looked at about ten years ago. It will work very well as far as fit and asthetic in our head. The wife has said ok. One reason is we will probably sell the boat next year and I would like to have grey water containment setup. It will be pretty easy to switch our 50 gal black water holding tank over to grey water. Grey water all goes to one pump and over, tank is gravity drain over. If someone wanted to go back to a marine head it would be pretty simple. Our annual pump out fees are the same as the OGO so it's a wash on the money side.

 

[lokate]

Refresh my memory- What are you using for "media?"
Is there a method for agitating if the motor or power fails such as an emergency knob?
Is there any risk of liquid spillage while sailing if the container is say, 2 gallons (out of 2.4 gallons) full?

That thing is mighty tempting. I'd love to remove my holding tank and open up that space for additional storage or replace the tank for a 3rd potable water tank.

I still need to measure 18.5" of height in my head to see if that'll fit but looking at your photo, I'm concerned about the width as well. You have a rectangular toilet in a rectangular space. My space is really tight and oblong, crammed against the mast.

The whole spillage thing is still a glitch in my mind for all these composting heads. No so much when healing I think you'd have to have your mast almost horizontal to get to an angle of serious concern. But what if you are in a bad storm and actually roll the boat. Besides everything else that becomes a real mess, now you've got all the contents of these composters to deal with. In the OGO, solids would likely just get all over the inside of the unit, not likely much coming out, but it sure would make a mess inside the unit. Now the liquids side, that's not the same case.

This point is actually something that has kept me back for several years before deciding to pull the trigger.

So I also put the OGO in my boat a few months back. Putting in an exterior vent was going to be a real feat of engineering in my boat so I opted for the still in development carbon filter on the end of the exhaust hose and the unit vents into my head instead of outside. It seems to work very well, I haven't had any odors that I can smell at all and I've done some dumb acts - forgot to dump the liquids with a 3/4 full tank - a month later returned to the boat to dump. Long story as to why I had to take that long. The trip there was filled with that feeling where you know you really screwed up and it's like I don't even want to see what waits for me, but there is no other option.... In the words of a friend of mine, sometimes you just have to grab the bull by the tail and face the situation....

Upon arrival, found absolutely no smell at all. So I'm very happy with this head at this point - not just for this point, but it sure kicked it up a notch...

Now, about flipping upside down? May I never know....

dj

 

[Diarmuid]

But what if you are in a bad storm and actually roll the boat. {snip} Now, about flipping upside down? May I never know....

If you ever roll your boat completely, I would suggest the mess inside your pants is going to be a worse cleanup job than anything your composting head will inflict. Seriously -- I'd put "Clean up the pee and coco duff" at about #35 on your To Do list following a full capsize. It's one of those chores you will enjoy because you are still alive to do it.

 

[lokate]

If you ever roll your boat completely, I would suggest the mess inside your pants is going to be a worse cleanup job than anything your composting head will inflict. Seriously -- I'd put "Clean up the pee and coco duff" at about #35 on your To Do list following a full capsize. It's one of those chores you will enjoy because you are still alive to do it.

Well as I said, May I never know....

dj

 

[Max Rockatansky]

I would add my experience, now five years full time living aboard with a C-Head

I know the general wisdom is to add water to pressed coir to break it, but the drier the media, the better the results. I store my 5-kilo bricks in the engine room’s (heat and ambient humidity) <-which goes a long way toward breaking up the media.

 

[a8b]

Coco coir bricks. I bought a pack of 5. Each is individually wrapped. I put one in a bucket, add 2 quarts of water and let it sit. That is on the dry side to start (too dry and it doesn't all break up) but I add a bit of water in the OGO, while mixing, if needed.

If there is a failure of the 12volt motor, you have to use your winch handle: Lift the lid and start mixing,...Joking aside, you could use anything to mix the medium. The mixing action and duration has turned out to be our favorite feature of this thing.

Seriously though, I rely on so many 12VDC motors in my life, most of which would be much more of a problem. They never let me down. But if the electric side is to Ajax that wood is to Jud, you probably should try to find a manual composter.

Interesting question on the urine tank that I hadn't considered. The saddle design would require near full and severe heel.

Now that I think of it, the full light goes off at about 3/4. If you're doing some boisterous sailing, that would be the time to change the tank and the reason to have 2 tanks onboard.

View attachment 529881

All the this design, saddle tank, electric mixing, is what helps the design achieve the short footprint. If length isn't a problem a C-head might work?

Kris, if you are 'boisterous sailing' then can the fluids not go right over?

 

[Kris Cringle]

Kris, if you are 'boisterous sailing' then can the fluids not go right over?

I don't think so, haven't so far. There is a gasket between the tank and the diverter and the diverter tapers and funnels through the neck of the tank.

 

[Blue Crab]

I would add my experience, now five years full time living aboard with a C-Head

I'm with Max. Dry medium == desiccating. Dry poop doesn't stink. That's the goal. I use peat.

 

[a8b]

I don't think so, haven't so far. There is a gasket between the tank and the diverter and the diverter tapers and funnels through the neck of the tank.

My point being if you are moving enough to threaten spilliage, are you not likely out enough to just dump it?

 

[Diarmuid]

I'm with Max. Dry medium == desiccating. Dry poop doesn't stink. That's the goal. I use peat.

Sure. But the other purpose of the medium, beside direct desiccation of poop, is bulking. The medium should be maximally porous, to allow air circulation thru it. Coir bricks are highly compressed; people wet them to re-bulk the medium. After it's poofed and hairy again, then yeah, by all means, as dry as can be before dropping it into the pooper.

 

[Max Rockatansky]

Sure. But the other purpose of the medium, beside direct desiccation of poop, is bulking. The medium should be maximally porous, to allow air circulation thru it. Coir bricks are highly compressed; people wet them to re-bulk the medium. After it's poofed and hairy again, then yeah, by all means, as dry as can be before dropping it into the pooper.

Sure. But the other purpose of the medium, beside direct desiccation of poop, is bulking. The medium should be maximally porous, to allow air circulation thru it. Coir bricks are highly compressed; people wet them to re-bulk the medium. After it's poofed and hairy again, then yeah, by all means, as dry as can be before dropping it into the pooper.

The media absorbs water from the feces, and bulks (in your sense) as it is used.

It is impractical to wet and then dry the media if you are living aboard, unless you have access to shore facility or more space and inclination than I.

Storage and use for me is 5-kilo bricks in engine room, and one brick broken up in a bucket. It probably takes 3-4 months for us to get through a brick/bucket.

 

[Kris Cringle]

I've taken advice here and elsewhere and start the coir as dry as is possible to break down into the original product. It's hard to understand the advice of "moist to the touch' thinking. That makes no sense to me. Still, it is an amazingly dried product in that 2 quarts of water is the minimum to break the bricks down, if you want to do that in a short time.

But that's also the beauty of the bricks. We're about to go off for 3-4 weeks. Two dried wrapped bricks that could fit in a small drawer are the entire support system of the composter.

Best of all to me; all the spots we'll anchor overnight, old favorites and some new ones, not once will I feel the tug of the holding tank. 'I'd like to spend another day but we better get out of here and to a pump out or to the 3 mile limit' (which is sometimes a day away).

It just eliminates one more dynamic support system (tank-storage) need on the boat that controls how-when-where we can sail.