Is there a way to add sleeves to pulpits "in the field"

Quickstep192

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My bow pulpits have just drilled holes where the lifelines pass through to get to the termination loop. My stanchions have a sleeve to eliminate the sharp edge. Is there a way I can add similar sleeves to the pulpit without having to remove the pulpit? 

 
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slug zitski

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My bow pulpits have just drilled holes where the lifelines pass through to get to the termination loop. My stanchions have a sleeve to eliminate the sharp edge. Is there a way I can add similar sleeves to the pulpit without having to remove the pulpit? 
Don’t know your project 

google SS flange  bushing 

these are often  used as pass thru grommets 

8DD6DCB9-CC54-4961-ABF5-3C6AA12375AA.png

 
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Quickstep192

Super Anarchist
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Chesapeake
I'm trying to get from an unfinished hole to a sleeved opening like the one in the picture. I think the unfinished hole in my pulpit originally had some kind of grommet in it, but with nothing to hold it in place, it rides out onto the wire, defeating its purpose. The sleeve in the second picture looks like it's peened over on both sides to make it stay put. I'm guessing there's a machine that does this, but I'm trying to see if there a way to do it with the pulpit in place. 
 

31169D3C-0FB6-4B73-BCC6-BD39B289A566.jpeg

60E2DA8E-9159-43C5-A57A-5C46C2714A7C.jpeg

 

gt-MTb

Member
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I did this maybe 10yrs ago on all my stanchions, when converting to dyneema lifelines.  Wish I had pictures of the steps, but I found it was important to flare both ends at the same time.  So I got several sizes of steel ball bearings (progressively larger) and ground a flat-spot on each.  I started with the smallest set (maybe 1/4” bigger than the stainless tube I was using), then used a c-clamp to smash the bearings against both end at the same time.  Swapped to a larger set of ball-bearings, repeated, and then repeated again with even larger ball-bearings.

To roll the edge down after flaring, I used a pair of sockets that had an ID chamfer, just the right diameter to roll the edge down.  Afterwards ran a fine file around the OD of each to remove an burrs.

Worked good for me, no chafing on the dyneema after several seasons, but changed back to stainless lifelines a way when time to replace.  
 

Note, I used some plastic bushing I found on McMaster to give me a little longer tube, and something to press my flare into, As with my process, I didn’t want to risk crushing the stanchion tube... was worried I’d make the tube oval, and this easier to bend.

335BA36F-6F55-4924-9579-D1FFA1F618BB.jpeg

 


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