J36

[PaulK]

Do you have a pic of your main sheet setup ? I have to redo mine.

This is what I could find. These pictures show most of the setup.

North Haven, ME The traveler control lines go to the cheekblock mounted in the cockpit above the seat cushion. They can be cleated up in the cam above it, or cleated back in the cam cleat visible by the guardrail on the side of the cockpit - whichever is convenient. Note the block on the traveler with a third sheave at 90º to the others. This is supposed to help avoid twisting the lines.(?)

Faulkner Island, CT Four sheaves here.

Friends off Peak's Island, Casco Bay ME
Two of the lines come off the boom and down to a swiveling double ratchet block on a bracket just forward of the traveler, and then to a swivel-mounted double cam cleat. The two lines are then spliced end-to-end. This enables the two sheets to be pulled at once, with a 4:1 ratio, or just one can be pulled, with an 8:1 ratio. We went out in a 40+ knot blow (with a reef in) to see what would happen and had no trouble handling the sail. Got up to 12.5 knots going downwind.

We really liked the ss guardrail - a repurposed radar guard from some big yacht, that we got at a junkyard for $4.50 per pound. It provides a handhold that ISN'T the wheel and keeps the mainsheet from wrapping around the wheel, binnacle, or engine controls in gybes. We also added a clear hinged cover over the engine panel to help keep things drier there.

 

[sailman]

This is what I could find. These pictures show most of the setup. View attachment 575294
North Haven, ME The traveler control lines go to the cheekblock mounted in the cockpit above the seat cushion. They can be cleated up in the cam above it, or cleated back in the cam cleat visible by the guardrail on the side of the cockpit - whichever is convenient. Note the block on the traveler with a third sheave at 90º to the others. This is supposed to help avoid twisting the lines.(?)

View attachment 575300
Faulkner Island, CT Four sheaves here.



View attachment 575301
Friends off Peak's Island, Casco Bay ME
Two of the lines come off the boom and down to a swiveling double ratchet block on a bracket just forward of the traveler, and then to a swivel-mounted double cam cleat. The two lines are then spliced end-to-end. This enables the two sheets to be pulled at once, with a 4:1 ratio, or just one can be pulled, with an 8:1 ratio. We went out in a 40+ knot blow (with a reef in) to see what would happen and had no trouble handling the sail. Got up to 12.5 knots going downwind.

We really liked the ss guardrail - a repurposed radar guard from some big yacht, that we got at a junkyard for $4.50 per pound. It provides a handhold that ISN'T the wheel and keeps the mainsheet from wrapping around the wheel, binnacle, or engine controls in gybes. We also added a clear hinged cover over the engine panel to help keep things drier there.

You would be much better served by getting rid of the pinch backstay. Replace the Wye with a block so that you keep the walkthrough if you need it. Then run a 6:1 course (which gives you 12:1) and off of one of the lines on the triple block add in another 6:1 split to either side of the cockpit for fine control (72:1).

 

[PaulK]

You would be much better served by getting rid of the pinch backstay. Replace the Wye with a block so that you keep the walkthrough if you need it. Then run a 6:1 course (which gives you 12:1) and off of one of the lines on the triple block add in another 6:1 split to either side of the cockpit for fine control (72:1).

We were more of the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" crowd. Have not been able to determine the mechanical advantage of the pinched setup, but a tackle with two 72:1 ends would seem like it might turn the aft part of the cockpit into a spaghetti factory. Am not sure that much fine tuning is called for. We passed every J/35 we raced against and the occasional J/109 with the setup shown.

 

[longy]

The 'pinch' method rapidly LOSES purchase as the leg angles get larger. If you can achieve high tension when needed, they work OK. Most take serious grunt in high wind to get the H/S tight. And watch the leg chainplates - they often get loose, as they get highly loaded sideways

 

[PaulK]

Loss of purchase didn't seem to be a problem for us. There was enough to do what we needed.

 

[Crash]

If you’re sailing with or faster than J35s or J/109s, which rate 9-15 secs/mile faster, you’re right. No need to change a thing…

 

[benjicohn]

Another recent J/36 owner here. Happy to see so many folks coming out of the woodwork.

I’m about to replace the masthead transducer and will need to run new wire down the mast (if it is not a nightmare / impossible).

Any clues as to what is in the mast? Do these have a conduit and this will be okay, or is everything zip tied and will be impossible without taking the mast down?

Thx and all the best,
Ben.

 

[Crash]

Use the old wire to pull a messenger line, and then use the messenger to run the new wire. That way it runs along the "same" path as the old.

 

[benjicohn]

Thanks Crash, that’s the plan. Have you had success with this on the j36?

 

[Crash]

Never on a J-36, but on several different boats…S2 9.1, Beneteau Fist 30E…