Keel Tank Conversion; Old Metal Boat
- Thread starter Panope
- Start date
Panope
Super Anarchist
- Thread starter
- #84
I think it will be ok.
The old gudgeon had 2 zerks, one at 4 o'clock and one at the 8 o'clock position. These were original from 1975.
The new Gudgeon has only one zerk and it is located at the "6 o'clock" position, and is therefore more protected by having the rudder just above.
Note that for the past 10 years, Panope has had zero antifouling paint. This means that I do a HUGE amount of scraping, sometimes blind. No doubt those former zerk fittings received many "direct hits".
Strong little bastards.
Panope
Super Anarchist
- Thread starter
- #85
Today is paint day.
First step was a phosphoric acid etch. This required a good fresh water rinse after. The kiddie pool is perfect for catching most of the run-off.
I'll put a fan on it, go to lunch, and hopefully the water will have evaporated by this evening for a coat of epoxy.
First step was a phosphoric acid etch. This required a good fresh water rinse after. The kiddie pool is perfect for catching most of the run-off.
I'll put a fan on it, go to lunch, and hopefully the water will have evaporated by this evening for a coat of epoxy.
Jim in Halifax
Super Anarchist
Why is that Steve? Either you are very enviro-conscious or you have discovered the secret antifouling paint manufacturers have been looking for...
(I realize antifouling an aluminum hull is tricky since TBT paint went off the market)
Panope
Super Anarchist
- Thread starter
- #88
Not that environmentally conscious and no secrets. Just a run of the mill masochist!
The last (non TBT, non Copper) antifouling paint that my father used back in the 90's was:
-Expensive
-Difficult to apply
-Fell off in large sheets
-Did not stop bottom growth.
Since we were scrubbing the bottom constantly anyway, I've just skipped the bottom paint.
While the soft growth has been easy to deal with, the barnacles that grow on the bottom of the keel have been a challenge because when beached, the scraper can't reach them without excavation, which I find a little dangerous given my use of a SINGLE beaching leg.
As moorage space becomes increasingly difficult to find and expensive, I am seriously considering building a new (mostly street legal) trailer that can be used on the launch ramp (travel lift fees are also skyrocketing out of control).
At that point, the use of the boat will look more like a trailer sailer.
I don't understand your putting the zincs on the inside of the hull. Zincs have to be in contact with the electrolyte and the hull to protect the hull. This may have useful information for you on galvanic protection. http://www.kastenmarine.com/_pdf/mbqCref.pdf
Panope
Super Anarchist
- Thread starter
- #90
I did not put zincs on the inside of the hull.
The inside blocks have threaded holes for the zinc mounting bolts, which pass through the (relatively thin) hull skin.
By the way, 40 years ago, as a boy, I helped Kasten for a couple days when he was building his own steel schooner. My job was tending to the diesel air compressor, sand hopper and associated hoses. Afterward, I recall having sand in every bodily orifice. The hell that Michael went through blasting on the INSIDE of the hull must have been extreme.
Fah Kiew Tu
Curmudgeon, First Rank
Yeah - there is the reason I sent all my steel to the professional blasters BEFORE I started building the boat. It came back clean of mill scale and coated in weld-through primer. I only needed to touch up the paint in the HAZ and wash the welding smut off before overcoating with epoxy primer.
Expensive and worth the cost without a doubt.
FKT
Bonus narrow. Hmm, winter Sea of Cortez anchor testing...Can we assume an invite will be sent to all of your friends here at SA.
Panope
Super Anarchist
- Thread starter
- #95
cje,
Your timing is perfect. Just today, a friend and I were discussing the proposed trailer idea, and he asked if I intend to trailer further than the local launching ramp.
I told him, probably not, but there are potentially two road hauls that make sense to me:
1) Port Townsend to Sioux City Iowa. As far as I can tell, Sioux City is the closest 'put in' to the vast N. American river/lake system. I reckon Panope would make a good "looper".
2) Puerto Penasco Sea of Cortez to Port Townsend (sail down, truck home).
Invite? Sure.
But don't wait for a Mexico trip that will likely never happen. Come to PT and fuck around with anchors anytime.
Your timing is perfect. Just today, a friend and I were discussing the proposed trailer idea, and he asked if I intend to trailer further than the local launching ramp.
I told him, probably not, but there are potentially two road hauls that make sense to me:
1) Port Townsend to Sioux City Iowa. As far as I can tell, Sioux City is the closest 'put in' to the vast N. American river/lake system. I reckon Panope would make a good "looper".
2) Puerto Penasco Sea of Cortez to Port Townsend (sail down, truck home).
Invite? Sure.
But don't wait for a Mexico trip that will likely never happen. Come to PT and fuck around with anchors anytime.
Panope
Super Anarchist
- Thread starter
- #96
My welding and metal work (from the early 2000's) in the vicinity of the propeller aperture looked like shit, so I took this opportunity to cove and fair the most offensive areas. I used an epoxy based filler (System Three Quick Fair).
I made a new aluminum panel for the Battery Switches and relocated them (and the solar controller) to the Galley bulkhead.
From left: Start Battery, Battery Combine, House Battery, and Engine Block Negative (an aluminum boat thing).
For connections between components in close proximity (that do not move or vibrate), I like to make copper bars instead of short cable "jumpers".
Start battery was relocated and all of the cables have been re-made. Pretty much everything was re-used, including the screws that hold the cushion clamps. Cables runs are all shorter than before.
I am not wild about having electrical gear comingled so intimately with the (existing) salt water plumbing, but it is what it is (I might make a splash guard shield for between the raw water strainer and the battery switches).
Large PVC valve (2 inch) is for the emergency bilge pump (Rule 4000). The stand-pipe makes the valve easier to reach from the wheel house footwell.
Note the "double wall" stand pipe that the raw water valve is attached to.
Overview of Technical Space. Start battery was formerly mounted where the Day Tank is located.
I made a new aluminum panel for the Battery Switches and relocated them (and the solar controller) to the Galley bulkhead.
From left: Start Battery, Battery Combine, House Battery, and Engine Block Negative (an aluminum boat thing).
For connections between components in close proximity (that do not move or vibrate), I like to make copper bars instead of short cable "jumpers".
Start battery was relocated and all of the cables have been re-made. Pretty much everything was re-used, including the screws that hold the cushion clamps. Cables runs are all shorter than before.
I am not wild about having electrical gear comingled so intimately with the (existing) salt water plumbing, but it is what it is (I might make a splash guard shield for between the raw water strainer and the battery switches).
Large PVC valve (2 inch) is for the emergency bilge pump (Rule 4000). The stand-pipe makes the valve easier to reach from the wheel house footwell.
Note the "double wall" stand pipe that the raw water valve is attached to.
Overview of Technical Space. Start battery was formerly mounted where the Day Tank is located.
Last edited:
mckenzie.keith
Aspiring Anarchist
Looks very tidy! The copper used for pipes is the same grade/purity as what is used for wires and cables in case anyone ever worries about that. So making bus bars from copper pipe should be just fine.
mckenzie.keith
Aspiring Anarchist
Yeah. Or you could cut it lengthwise and then flatten one of the half-pipes. If the idea of two layers in your bus bar did not appeal to you.
