Trickle down sailing technology is a myth that only exists because of Reagan.Its just AC trickle-down. Take this thread to AC Anarchy.
Pretty common for doing yachts too. Tape measure from the masthead is pretty error prone at long lengths,and the deck is more likely to have assymetric areas. If you get your rig base settings aligned with keel, and rudder aligned too, everything should be hunky dory.It's not just at the AC level, it's been done for years. An engineering buddy used a transit to align his 110 keel and rudder. I know of J24s that had this done years ago. I was planning on hiring an engineer to sight a keel and rudder from a rebuild I'm doing.
No, but on the other hand having different settings on different tacks is the sort of thing that would really psych me out.This is good fun stuff to measure and obsess about, but it isn't a magic bullet.
I'm always setting everything differently on different tacks as I only sail in the ocean, and one tack is usually almost sideways to a swell, and the other tack is almost always into a swell(upwind)Of course, on a usual day, there are three or more swells engaged in destructive and constructive wave interference, and wind chop, powerboat wakes, and etc.No, but on the other hand having different settings on different tacks is the sort of thing that would really psych me out.This is good fun stuff to measure and obsess about, but it isn't a magic bullet.
Another thing to bear in mind is that I've never worked on a boat that was truly symmettrical. Its always been a case of establishing the best datum I can and then working from that.
Well put, Steve.Do the foils really need to be aligned?
On multi hulls, certainly you like things not to be fighting each other, so if your dagger boards were toed in or out you might have a beef.
I usually sail with the rudders toed in just a bit so that the windward rudder is at ) angle of attack when the leeward rudder has enough helm to counter the weather helm of the rig. I do this by making sure the wave on the windward board is equal on both sides.
On a monohull:
Getting the centerline of the hull and centerboard aligned fore and aft is probably a good idea, but the notion of gybing boards suggests that a degree or two either way doesn't matter that much.
Being off axis will manifest itself as different amounts of weather helm on different tacks. If the weight of the helm is equal or close to it on each tack, you are fine.
The rudder turns, so it doesn't have to be aligned.
In a vertical axis,. it is somewhat dubious as well.
Bill Beaver once asked, "When was the last time your boat was straight up and down?"
The same logic applies to having the masthead centered above the hull. It probably matters some, but it isn't the kind of thing that rockets you to the head of the fleet. On a boat with head sails, the biggest difference will be manifested in the jib leads. The jib clew will be closer to the deck on one tack than the other, so if you see yourself having to put the leads in different places to make the jib set the same on either tack, it's likely your rig is tipped.
This is good fun stuff to measure and obsess about, but it isn't a magic bullet.