Internal lazy jacks are the best solution for a racer cruiserHas anyone come up with a simple lazy jack setup for a 30-35' sailboat with a 13' boom that does not compromise racing performance and is stowed out of the way when sailing/racing?
This is what I use on my 35' racer/cruiser. I don't need the blocks, SS eyes on the dynema work fine. They are tensioned on small horn cleats on the mast with no covers on the line and no evidence of wear over 10 years. As long as the main is flaked well I don't deploy them leaving the dock or raising the sail, just when lowering.As mid said - but if you must have them...
Thin dyneema with small ronstan skock blocks. When sailing, loosen them, gather and pull them forward to front of boom around the reefing hooks/carabiner/soft shackle or similar and tension everything. You end up with dyneema tight along boom and up/down back of mast. Deploy prior to dropping sail. You can also tuck them away when mainsail cover is installed without needing to modify cover. Depending on how you plan to cleat/tension the lazy jack tails you probably want a cover on that area of the dyneema.
SameAs mid said - but if you must have them...
Thin dyneema with small ronstan skock blocks. When sailing, loosen them, gather and pull them forward to front of boom around the reefing hooks/carabiner/soft shackle or similar and tension everything. You end up with dyneema tight along boom and up/down back of mast. Deploy prior to dropping sail. You can also tuck them away when mainsail cover is installed without needing to modify cover. Depending on how you plan to cleat/tension the lazy jack tails you probably want a cover on that area of the dyneema.
This is what we do.^^^^^^^As mid said - but if you must have them...
Thin dyneema with small ronstan skock blocks. When sailing, loosen them, gather and pull them forward to front of boom around the reefing hooks/carabiner/soft shackle or similar and tension everything. You end up with dyneema tight along boom and up/down back of mast. Deploy prior to dropping sail. You can also tuck them away when mainsail cover is installed without needing to modify cover. Depending on how you plan to cleat/tension the lazy jack tails you probably want a cover on that area of the dyneema.
Topping lift to help hold the leech in check or am I missing something?This is what we do.^^^^^^^ View attachment 572831
I'm to lazy to do the math, but the Cd of a circle is .47, which is way higher than a streamlined section. All the lines going up a mast on the outside are a significant amount of drag.Performance wise I would have to be a much better sailor to notice the penalty of lazyjacks. An acquaintance who is a very good sailor has done some research and he thinks we underestimate the drag of halyards and other lines perpendicular to the wind. Perhaps someone smarter than me can figure out the wind load of a 1/8" column of line tucked against the mast.
We're removing the topping lift for next season. It only chafes the sail and on occasion gets wrapped around the backstay. Since it's fixed at the top it's useless as a reserve main halyard or as a safety line for the bosun's chair. The rigid vang works fine to hold the boom up.Topping lift to help hold the leech in check or am I missing something?
Also don't need the blocks/rings/thimbles on portions of the dyneema that don't move much. Ex. top of a bridle. Will reduce things that tap against mast/boom and annoy the shit out of you at night.As mid said - but if you must have them...
Thin dyneema with small ronstan skock blocks. When sailing, loosen them, gather and pull them forward to front of boom around the reefing hooks/carabiner/soft shackle or similar and tension everything. You end up with dyneema tight along boom and up/down back of mast. Deploy prior to dropping sail. You can also tuck them away when mainsail cover is installed without needing to modify cover. Depending on how you plan to cleat/tension the lazy jack tails you probably want a cover on that area of the dyneema.
Usually a cylinder is ~ 1.0 in air speeds we are consideringI'm to lazy to do the math, but the Cd of a circle is .47,
too many numbers. my head hertzUsually a cylinder is ~ 1.0 in air speeds we are considering
So 3mm rope x say 12m?
Cd = 1.0
Area = 0.003m x 12m = 0.036 m2
density air = 1.204 kg/m3
V = say upwind, 12 knots = about 6 m/s
Drag = 1/2 Cd A density V^2 = 1.0 x 0.036m2 x 1.204 kg/m3 x (6 m/s)^2 = ~0.78 N
If you have 2 of them that long + a few more short sections of rope, with blocks, and associated intersection drag etc - you're in the ballpark of 3N
Or roughly 0.1% of the resistance of a 30' sailboat sailing at 5 or 6 knots.
Loose clothing on the crew on the rail probably is worse. More lycra!
That is one sexy set of sails (the main in particular). Nice!This is what we do.^^^^^^^ View attachment 572831
ss eyes do you mean thimbles and do you have a picture or diagram of the setup?This is what I use on my 35' racer/cruiser. I don't need the blocks, SS eyes on the dynema work fine. They are tensioned on small horn cleats on the mast with no covers on the line and no evidence of wear over 10 years. As long as the main is flaked well I don't deploy them leaving the dock or raising the sail, just when lowering.
Performance wise I would have to be a much better sailor to notice the penalty of lazyjacks. An acquaintance who is a very good sailor has done some research and he thinks we underestimate the drag of halyards and other lines perpendicular to the wind. Perhaps someone smarter than me can figure out the wind load of a 1/8" column of line tucked against the mast.