Life aboard a Little Harbor 44

Alaris

Super Anarchist
1,930
797
Annapolis
In a shameless act of theft, I am using Ajax’s format and applying it to my own journey.

I am now, on paper at least, the owner of a 1983 Little Harbor 44. Hull #2 of 15, to be precise. Hull #1 was Ted Hood’s personal boat, one of many Robin Toos. Unlike the center cockpit of #1, mine is an aft cockpit with a relatively traditional layout.

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This particular boat was delivered in August 1983 to an owner in Cleveland, OH, having been built like the others by Alexander Marine Co. at Kaohsiung Taiwan for the Little Harbor Boat Yard Corporation. In April 1987, she was conveyed to her second owner, first of St. Louis, MO, and later of Miami, FL. Her third owner bought her in December 1995 and took her back to the Great Lakes, but only briefly. Shortly after the purchase they put the mast on the deck and traveled down the Mississippi, turned east, and ended up in Mobile, AL. They left CONUS behind and cruised extensively, including to the Bahamas, Virgin Islands, Central America, and the northern part of South America. They lived aboard for seven years while cruising.

In roughly 2014-2015, the owners relocated to Paducah, KY and brought her with them, and then trucked her to Tennessee (below), where she currently sits. She has not been in the water since 2015.

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On December 3rd, 2022, I signed the papers and arranged for her to be trucked to Annapolis in early January, the earliest available timeframe.

I terminated my lease, moved in with family pending her arrival, and intend to be on board by the first day of Spring.

Now the preparation work begins.

First, the mission statement: to live aboard in Annapolis at a private pier and cruise the Chesapeake Bay, at least for the first year. Hopefully expanding my radius after that. Requirements include comfort (heat and eventually air conditioning), connectivity (*reliable* high speed internet required for working from home), and sailing outfitting (for me, this means new rigging, a new sail or two at some point, and top notch electronics).

Some important points:
The boat has been out of the water for the better part of 8 years
It was painted, both topsides and bottom, after being relocated to TN, so neither the bottom paint nor topsides have gotten wet.
Being at a private pier, I will only have water and power—no pumpout.

Projects identified:
-Sanitation. Currently only a Lectrasan with no holding tank. This is now illegal in Annapolis waters. Need to install a holding tank. Also looking to convert to a fresh water head.

-Heat and air conditioning. No A/C and only a small Espar heater in the stern that heats the aft stateroom and the aft end of the salon. Of course, I will be staying in the forward stateroom due to proximity to the head and headroom, and that heater only helps with the main cabin.

-Power. Has an essentially obsolete 50A 120V shore power inlet and a 120V AC system. Need more power to run the heat and air conditioning, plus a transition to Smartplug along with adding a galvanic isolator and ELCI.

-Sails. The main is from 1999 and well used. The 130% genoa is also from 1999 but essentially unused from what I understand. There is a 110% Yankee that is of unknown vintage and also well worn. I have no idea what the below sail is, perhaps a staysail flown from the headstay. I have been exploring the ideas of a (vertically) battened or full battened main for the furler. The sail is on a Hood Stoway in-mast furler with manual controls. No power winches on this boat. The below photo is *old* but of the current sails.

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-Brightwork. Actually in pretty good shape. Cetol marine natural teak (NOT THE ORANGE STUFF) on the toe rails and eyebrows, varnish on the cockpit table and companionway. Interior varnish is in excellent condition. Have to do some repairs on the toe rails and eyebrows, maintenance work on the rest.

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-Electronics. I am an electronics junkie. The Datamarine units on deck and the stuff at the nav station is older than I am. I will be doing a complete refit of the electronics while the mast is out and I can upgrade the masthead unit and antennas.

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Deep breath. I think that covers the status quo. Next, what I’ve already bought in preparation for her arrival in my neck of the woods.
 
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Sail4beer

Starboard!
Looking good! I’m glad you are finally going to get out sail on the dream boat we’ve been waiting for. Well done.

I’m scared when I see the mast being unloaded laying in its weak side in the sling. Generally speaking, with a mast that size and weight, you want the spar with the bolt rope facing up or down, not to the side. The mast is built to take some flexing fore and aft, but I’ve seen masts snap being offloaded like that and I don’t let mine get lifted that way. It can be safely transported in the trailer that way though.
 

fufkin

Super Anarchist
Congrats!! Great looking boat!

There’s gotta be a pretty comprehensive ‘out of the water for more than 5 years check list’ somewhere...maybe someone here has gone through it...

Off the top of my head and just for starters...

-anything with rubber gaskets- pumps etc. even the gaskets for your on deck diesel and water lids...etc
-winches greased...check masthead sheaves during inspection/rigging
-I’ve heard you might have to re do antifoul anyway even if new and never used ...not sure what that’s all about (?)
-be prepared for some things to (possibly) be out of alignment as the boat flexes from cradle shape to in the water shape. (And yeah I’m aware your boat is a quality build) This might take a day or two who knows. I only know from 6 months in 6 months out every year and sometimes it’s noticeable sometimes not depending on cradle accuracy. Usually the alignment issues are evident on the cradle (and adjusted) and would shake out right away in the water. Micro changes in companionway hatches, cupboards etc would be a tell, and might apply to shaft alignment as well...possibly wait a few days if critical adjustments are needed

Those are just a couple of things and I’m sure there’s a ton more that you’re gonna be going over.

Interesting that you’re looking into possibility of going full battened. My brother in law swapped in mast for battened on his inherited Cape Dory and it ended up that getting a whole new mast was the only way to go. I was thinking the mandrel might’ve been removed and just use the old mast with new set up but apparently that was a no go.

Anyway, good luck!
 

Alaris

Super Anarchist
1,930
797
Annapolis
Interesting that you’re looking into possibility of going full battened. My brother in law swapped in mast for battened on his inherited Cape Dory and it ended up that getting a whole new mast was the only way to go. I was thinking the mandrel might’ve been removed and just use the old mast with new set up but apparently that was a no go.
The proposal from several sailmakers is a fully battened in mast furling main. I’m skeptical but they assure me it works just great!
 

monkphunk

Member
108
72
Congrats @Alaris! Excited for you. We're living aboard a somewhat similar boat (center cockpit Brewer 44) and cruising full time. Not exactly your use case but here are some thoughts:

Requirements include comfort (heat and eventually air conditioning), connectivity (*reliable* high speed internet required for working from home), and sailing outfitting (for me, this means new rigging, a new sail or two at some point, and top notch electronics)
We have two reverse cycle AC/heat units - one aft and one for the main saloon/forward cabin. They're effective at air conditioning and heating but quite loud. Maybe more modern ones are better. We use them rarely because we're not often at the dock but would definitely be looking to improve the insulation on the boat if we used them regularly. If you're trying to heat or cool the whole boat, I suspect you'll need to upgrade the shore power system. Our two units are split between two 120VAC 30 amp lines. Since you currently have one line, it might make more sense to upgrade to a modern split phase 120/240 50A shore power connection. Not an expert on this, but I think you could then run a 240VAC system which would help keep the current draw down. For heat, we supplement when on shore power with an oil filled radiator space heater; the vents for the reverse cycle system are high which is great for cooling but not ideal for heating. Easy to take the radiator off the boat for the summer or when you see the light and head south for the winter.

Connectivity is a constant battle for us (I work remotely too). I wish Zoom had never been invented as that is the source of a lot of pickiness about internet (you need plenty of bandwidth AND low latency to have a normal-seeming call). We've had decent luck with a dedicated Peplink 5g router, but service varies based on location, and even though cell phone plans are getting better, you run up against data caps. We recently added a Starlink to the mix for use at the dock/anchor (not interested in the weight and windage of a permanent installation). So far we've been pleased; this would at least be a good solution at your home dock even if you don't take it with you when you cruise. We got the RV package but you could get "home" service since you will be in the Chesapeake exclusively, which I think gets you better traffic prioritization.

We've only passed through Annapolis in the spring and fall. Is there year round pumpout available? Are you going to be in range of the pumpout boat? I think this may end up being a bit of a hassle for you if you are aboard full time. We're generally on the move so can sometimes dump our tank offshore, but in the Chesapeake you will need constant pumpouts. Our boat came with a 20 gallon tank and that does not last long when we are aboard full time.

I know electronics are fun, but if I were in your shoes I'd spend money on sails and leave some budget left over for the unexpected before going down the electronics rabbit hole. You can spend a lot of money (and time) on electronics. One option would be to run wires for new wind instruments now so you can easily install later when the stick is up. I think the new stuff is wireless, so perhaps you are only talking about two power wires anyway?

Finally, what do you know about the engine? Sounds like no sea trial given the boat's current location. That's definitely an area with significant potential for unexpected expense.
 

eliboat

Super Anarchist
2,570
972
A boat like that should not have cetol on her brightwork… may as well paint it. Varnish is the way to go and you’ll be respected for that. You don’t have a lot of varnish on that boat as it is, so don’t make the stuff that is visible look like shit.
 

Alaris

Super Anarchist
1,930
797
Annapolis
A boat like that should not have cetol on her brightwork… may as well paint it. Varnish is the way to go and you’ll be respected for that. You don’t have a lot of varnish on that boat as it is, so don’t make the stuff that is visible look like shit.
I don’t follow. The Cetol looks great.
 

Alaris

Super Anarchist
1,930
797
Annapolis
Okay since the first few replies have latched on to sanitation and power, those will be my first topics addressed. Hang on…
 

Ajax

Super Anarchist
14,999
3,285
Edgewater, MD
I recommend the Smart Plug for the end of your shore power connections that connect to the boat.

Much more surface contact area, less likelihood of overheating, meltdown and fires. You'll
still have to use the standard twistlock plug on the dock pedestal but it's better to burn down their pedestal than your boat.

 

Slick470

Super Anarchist
2,089
331
Virginia
To each his own…. Cetol looks like cetol. If it works for you, great, but I think it just turns any wood a weird orange color with no actual benefit over a good high build varnish.
Cetol Natural looks pretty good. Not that much different than varnish, especially if topped with their clear. Cetol original is an orange abomination and should be avoided though.

As long as it is maintained, it's easier to deal with than varnish. It is a huge PIA to remove if you let it start to go.
 
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Alaris

Super Anarchist
1,930
797
Annapolis
Cetol Natural looks pretty good. Not that much different than varnish, especially if topped with their clear. Cetol original is an orange abomination and should be avoided though.

As long as it is maintained, it's easier to deal with than varnish. It is a huge PIA to remove if you let it start to go.
It is Cetol Natural and looks like varnish.
 

Alaris

Super Anarchist
1,930
797
Annapolis
Okay, the first big topic: Sanitation.

Compost head cultists: be gone! You will not convert me!

As a person with a gastrointestinal disorder (let’s just leave it at that) my stated mission is to make my bathroom experience as close to home as possible.

Enter: the Raritan Marine Elegance
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This elongated-bowl (just like home!) freshwater flush electric toilet built in macerator is about as good as it gets in my opinion. Mine has a *HOT AND COLD* integrated bidet.

Now, the big problem. The holding tank. As I said, the boat didn’t come new with one. It had the high-tech poop-zapper Lectrasan that dumped shit right into the water after performing voodoo magic on it. Annapolis doesn’t look kindly on this and outlawed these things.

I got into every settee, every locker, trying where to fit a decent sized (30gal+) tank so that I wouldn’t have to visit the local marina too often. Short of taking up the entire settee with an expensive custom designed tank, no option presented itself.

Until I looked at the plumbing schematics. The boat has three water tanks: two 60gal and one 75.

I am only one person. I will need water, but I won’t need almost 200 gallons of it, mostly because I have water to the dock and my cruising adventures won’t be anywhere near long enough to need that much water. *Even* with a freshwater flush toilet.

Conveniently enough one of the big fiberglass water tanks is squarely underneath the head. Enter the 60 gallon holding tank. Even for me that should last a while. It will be disconnected from the manifold and a dip tube, tank monitor, and access port installed, and the individual deck fill will be replaced with a “waste” fill.
 
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Alaris

Super Anarchist
1,930
797
Annapolis
Today’s project: rebuilding the very old Profurl furler. Got the bottom bearing out (guts pictured-note how milky the grease is, lots of corrosion and water inside) and will replace with new seals and bearing.

The halyard swivel, though, has rock solid seals and I can’t get them out.

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Drawing:
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More info: http://www.exfac.com/aussie_bray/profurl_bearings.htm

I can’t find this Chris Zinger guy and have asked for a copy of his instructions: https://forums.sailinganarchy.com/threads/profurl-“chris-zinger”-rebuild-guide.240114/

But even with them, it doesn’t help me with solid as a rock bearings that I can’t get out. It took a press and a lot of elbow grease to get the others out.
 
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