Snaggletooth
SA's Morrelle Compasse
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Notte siurre aboute that......belongs in the don't move to FL thread![]()
Notte siurre aboute that......belongs in the don't move to FL thread![]()
Gotte to usse youre senses to macke thinges worke..........![]()
Northeng niewe theire..........
Northeng niewe theire...... scentte changes aftere the factte........I heard, from a reliable source, of a local Chinese businessman whose wife did exactly that. Stops him inside the door, trousers down and face into the crumpet zone.
Love old lumber because it's so clean, straight and reusable! Getting past plaster & lath to find it tho, not so great.
Yep….I did a home remodel on a home the was built in the 50’s with dimensional lumber and had to do the remodel with nominal lumber. What a hassle matching up where the walls joined or piecing in an existing wall!Back when 2X4's were actually 2X4
My house is full dimension 2x4 and 2x6 redwood framing and 1x4 subfloor from the 40’s. Sorry, floor joists are 2x10. Termites only eat the fir used in added window framing and a laundry room/pantry add on and a skylight.Back when 2X4's were actually 2X4
Mine is dimensional 2x10 redwood floor joists on 4 foot centers all sitting on concrete piers and stem walls and foundation walls with a 2-3 foot crawl space over bare dirt. Then the subfloor was 1x4 tongue and groove redwood laid across the floor joists with an oak floor over that. Thing is bombproof…..but cold tootsies in the winter. That crawl space just hangs onto the cold.My house is full dimension 2x4 and 2x6 redwood framing and 1x4 subfloor from the 40’s. Sorry, floor joists are 2x10. Termites only eat the fir used in added window framing and a laundry room/pantry add on and a skylight.
Sounds like you have enough room under there to access and insulate… (that’s the Minnesotan in me…)Mine is dimensional 2x10 redwood floor joists on 4 foot centers all sitting on concrete piers and stem walls and foundation walls with a 2-3 foot crawl space over bare dirt. Then the subfloor was 1x4 tongue and groove redwood laid across the floor joists with an oak floor over that. Thing is bombproof…..but cold tootsies in the winter. That crawl space just hangs onto the cold.
Yep same but I think my centers are less far apart. I swear every year I am going to put rigid foam up there but never do. Working under there is a bitch.Mine is dimensional 2x10 redwood floor joists on 4 foot centers all sitting on concrete piers and stem walls and foundation walls with a 2-3 foot crawl space over bare dirt. Then the subfloor was 1x4 tongue and groove redwood laid across the floor joists with an oak floor over that. Thing is bombproof…..but cold tootsies in the winter. That crawl space just hangs onto the cold.
Renovating a 100-year-old Craftsman house in the PNW means you are dealing with clear, old-growth Douglas Fir which back then had e values in the 1,400,000 range and you could span a 24' room with 2x12s at 16" and not have it deflect. The Western Woods book had values that are unimaginable in the world of nominal-sized Hem-Fir "white wood".Love old lumber because it's so clean, straight and reusable! Getting past plaster & lath to find it tho, not so great.
I've found that the finish nail pattern "code" from 100 years ago was seemingly 2 x 10P finish nails every 12"!
Imagine building a house with all nails being hand driven into that 1918 wood. So many nails and all the lath was hand nailed too, horse hair plaster applied, etc...
Mine is dimensional 2x10 redwood floor joists on 4 foot centers all sitting on concrete piers and stem walls and foundation walls with a 2-3 foot crawl space over bare dirt. Then the subfloor was 1x4 tongue and groove redwood laid across the floor joists with an oak floor over that. Thing is bombproof…..but cold tootsies in the winter. That crawl space just hangs onto the cold.