Two posts, thanks, unless you count accidental double posts that I can't figure out how to delete.Three posts and already self-identified as an asshole. Last I checked, a line can pick up splinters when looped around wood at least as well as when tied to it.
C'mon, you know you want him, Justin Bieber!Maybe an all-star concert...
Supporting the non-profit group Cleats for Canada.
Rush, Celine Dione, Neil Young, Gordon Lightfoot, April Wine, Guess Who........
Naw...we gave him to the USA, along with Ted Cruz. Keep em! No re-gifting...C'mon, you know you want him, Justin Bieber!
OK. But just remember, Brent Swain belongs to you guys. From that perspective, Bieber and Cruz don't look so bad.Naw...we gave him to the USA, along with Ted Cruz. Keep em! No re-gifting...
I mean, I guess it does, if you don't set your lines to pull into the corners of the rail supports?Jammer Six said:That way, your boat shifts back and forth with the current.
The world is full of injustices. Fix 'em when we can, but meanwhile try to minimise the damage they do to usWhen you are paying more than a buck a foot a night I don't think it's unreasonable to expect decent cleats on the dock.
Most people do it that way but I can't bring myself to. I want my lines to have some give and spring to them so's I lead 'em fore & aft as if there were cleats.Not being able to lasso a cleat with your spring as you land, what a hardship.
I used to hate bullrails and rings, too, until someone leaned over and whispered, "you don't tie to it, you pass under it and bring your line back aboard."
Don't go bringing good ideas into this.rather than have these things chew your dock lines, why not just make a loop from 2 feet of old line, pass it around the rail and back through itself, then moor to that?
Dispose of the loop when it gets too full of splinters
$2.50/ft/night in some of the marinas up here in season.When you are paying more than a buck a foot a night I don't think it's unreasonable to expect decent cleats on the dock.
Trouble with chafe guard is there is no way to get in on the line till the damage is done. On a bull rail, you MUST loop something around it and draw it tight. By the time you have threaded the line through something, positioned it, repositioned it as you sweat the line in, your boat has drifted away.I wonder if old fire hose as a moveable "chafe guard" is the best way to handle that. I have 20' left of the stuff and might as well try it next time I'm up there.
DDW: are you at least having better wind? This week is an exception (at least in Seattle), but so far there has been decent wind a lot of this summer.
The same people who tell me this argue that cleats are never where you need them. You can't have it both ways. Rail supports are never were you need them. Also, now your lines are chafing over the end grain of the rail supports, an even more splintery wonderland.I mean, I guess it does, if you don't set your lines to pull into the corners of the rail supports?
Whether tied to a bull rail or a fancy-smancy cleat, bollard, or whatever, the best way to adjust lines is using the cleats on your own boat. The loop or fixed end of your dock line goes on the dock, the other end is adjusted as required on board. Because you don't even have to hop down to dock level, you never risk spilling so much as a drop of your beer or gin and tonic......Even bull rails made of the finest polished teak still suffer from a fatal design flaw: you cannot adjust the lines quickly and easily. I have seen about 10 different hitch variations tied by lifetime wharfingers. Adjusting any of them requires untying them and retying them. I can adjust all four dock lines on cleats and have a beer in the time it takes a lifer to adjust one line tied to a bull rail.
Good to know that you aren't frittering away your three-score-and-ten on trivial issues like the risk of nuclear war in KoreaNo, I will not be swayed. I will not rest until the scourge is lifted from the earth.