Mast shoe question - corrosion prevention

[JoJo - SV Uku]

I've got a deck stepped mast. The aluminum mast slides into an aluminum shoe (think mortise and tenon), pretty standard setup.
I'm wondering if it would be prudent to coat the shoe with some Loctite LB8023 that I have on hand... Yay or nay?
I'm sure it isn't necessary but also figure out couldn't hurt. Or could it?

 

[mgs]

I wouldn’t do it. It’s aluminum on aluminum the corrosion will be from something else. That Loctite has some other metal in it and is a right bear to keep things clean.

 

[slug zitski]

Dont know what that stuff is


if it’s copper paste ..NO WAY

Tefgel or similar will work —lubricate and corrosion prevention

 

[El Borracho]

Well … @slug zitski and @mgs that LOCTITE 8024 has NO metal in it. (Ask me how I know)

As for helping the mast shoe? It might. Probably not. Apply monthly? Not likely.

Where aluminum fits tightly it is going to corrode because it wears, is wet, etc. Many boat parts are meant to be renewed after a few decades of service. A new shoe and a refreshed mast foot are not uncommon.

 

[slug zitski]

Well … @slug zitski and @mgs that LOCTITE 8024 has NO metal in it. (Ask me how I know)

As for helping the mast shoe? It might. Probably not. Apply monthly? Not likely.

Where aluminum fits tightly it is going to corrode because it wears, is wet, etc. Many boat parts are meant to be renewed after a few decades of service. A new shoe and a refreshed mast foot are not uncommon.

I get in the habit of using tefgel on all metal mating surfaces …probably not needed

 

[mgs]

Well … @slug zitski and @mgs that LOCTITE 8024 has NO metal in it. (Ask me how I know)

As for helping the mast shoe? It might. Probably not. Apply monthly? Not likely.

Where aluminum fits tightly it is going to corrode because it wears, is wet, etc. Many boat parts are meant to be renewed after a few decades of service. A new shoe and a refreshed mast foot are not uncommon.

You expect me to read carefully?

 

[Zonker]

A grease would be OK. But unless the antiseize says it's happy for alum/alum then no.

 

[JoJo - SV Uku]

Awesome! Thanks for all your answers. I will go without it.

 

[Al Paca]

Slather with Lanocote

 

[Diamond Jim]

The ingredients of Loctite LB 8023 are listed in its MSDS.

https://www1.mscdirect.com/MSDS/MSDS00011/88053194-20190213.PDF

Is there a chemist in the house to interpret it?

 

[El Borracho]

The ingredients of Loctite LB 8023 are listed in its MSDS.

https://www1.mscdirect.com/MSDS/MSDS00011/88053194-20190213.PDF

Is there a chemist in the house to interpret it?

Tar, grease, soap, graphite and quicklime. Interesting. Graphite and aluminum are at opposite ends (bad) of the electrochemical series, right? That seems suspicious. But graphite is common in other goops. Quicklime is a voracious consumer of moisture. Like plaster. Whatever quicklime does in that concoction will be over in a few hours on a wet boat.

Complicated chemistry. I’d stick with lanolin or Tef-Gel. They seem more inert. Less active.

 

[longy]

First - make darn sure that water can drain from inside the mast. Second - once the mast is stepped, fill the crack between the spar & the base with silicone, get it as far into the joint as possible. Why silicone? it's waterproof, low strength, & does not conduct electrons.
Water & (especially) salt are what will cause corrosion
I watched a yard crane trying to pull the rig out of a Columbia 50 which had the same set up but down in the bilge (keel stepped). They had lifted the boat up a foot where the crane could not lift any more. They attacked the joint with a gas torch, they beat it with sledges. Finally they had to cut the mast just above the step cup.

 

[slug zitski]

Hm

First - make darn sure that water can drain from inside the mast. Second - once the mast is stepped, fill the crack between the spar & the base with silicone, get it as far into the joint as possible. Why silicone? it's waterproof, low strength, & does not conduct electrons.
Water & (especially) salt are what will cause corrosion
I watched a yard crane trying to pull the rig out of a Columbia 50 which had the same set up but down in the bilge (keel stepped). They had lifted the boat up a foot where the crane could not lift any more. They attacked the joint with a gas torch, they beat it with sledges. Finally they had to cut the mast just above the step cup.

hmm

ive seen hoist issues with Spar tight

crane lifted the mast and the boat came out of the water

imbedding a “ cheese cutter “ cord into the pour ,to saw split the spartight Chocking , is standard , especially when the partner walls might form an upside down funnel shape

and water drainage at mast butts , steps is very important

drill another hole in the mast , mast step if you think it’s needed

as to the tefgel , locktiite, coating …before all these speciality products became available aluminum was protected with Lanolin

works well..

 

[Irrational 14]

LANOCOTE®

 

[SloopJonB]

Something that hasn't been mentioned is to change the shoe from a cup the mast sits inside to a cruciform base that sits inside the mast.

I had to build a new step for my Columbia 43 and did it like this;

Due to the corrosion from the existing cup style step the foot of the mast needed to be trimmed to eliminate the corrosion so I increased the height of the new step block by a corresponding amount.

The alloy plate cruciform fits inside the tube and was scuppered in the corners to eliminate standing water. Much better than sitting inside a cup.

 

[Zonker]

What is the white trapezoid pyramid made from?

 

[SloopJonB]

many layers of ply and glass mat laminated with epoxy.

Just for fun, here's what it replaced.

That mess actually kept the mast standing for a trip by the PO from Santa Monica to San Rafael.

 

[Max Rockatansky]

I coat the base with AlumaProtect then I2K, then paint. I have also shims of UHMW.

 

[kinardly]

I’ve been told Sabre yachts of a certain vintage had a problem with poorly designed mast steps and drains that became plugged, leading to softening
of the timber support and wicking to the adjacent bulkhead. Can anyone tell me what years and models had this problem and can a correction be retrofitted? I’m looking at a couple of these and
I already rejected one.

 

[AirisWindy]

Not a direct answer to your question but I glanced at a 1988 sabre 38 that was an MK1, it "sold" previously but the buyers aborted the sale once the survey came back. If you look at the sole you can see quarter round trim. I do believe it was fully removed for the repair.

Its still for sale:

1988 Sabre MKII Racer/Cruiser for sale - YachtWorld

Find more information and images about the boat and contact the seller or search more boats for sale on YachtWorld.

www.yachtworld.com