Modified Columbia 30 info?

My boat came with an inspection port on the cabin top directly above the keel. There are also 2 large pad eyes through bolted into the keel grid structure near centerline. This is a carbon frame that runs up the sides of the interior to also support the chain plates. Two lifting straps attach to this for lifting and are stabilized by 2 more straps attaching to the cockpit floor to stabilize and balance the lifting point. I keep my boat in a slip year round. If I had to dry sail it, it would be cake. The only drawback would be the time required for raising and lowering the keel. I'm told there is a speedy solution by attaching a cordless driver and socket to the worm winch.

As far as using a symmetrical kite, I considered putting an S2 kite and pole on the boat but after using my largest A2 more, I found I could just roll the boat to weather with a larger crew and sheet out to go extra deep if needed to. If I was stuck sailing on a narrow river or lake, I'd probably put one on based on my competition.

 

ryley

Super Anarchist
5,520
668
Boston, MA
Thanks for the answers. A couple more questions: has anyone here drysailed these? Stock, C30s don't have a single-point attachment system, but it seems fairly simple to cut an opening in the deck above the keel to create one. Also - any attempts to race one with a symmetrical?
the guy I bought mine from had his on a hydrohoist. He used a Milwaukee 24v angle drill to raise and lower the keel. Also mine was originally set up for a symmetrical chute but I didn't get the pole when I bought the boat and there was no sym chute with the inventory. I am working on the same way of getting deep as Irrational.

 

c56602

Member
58
12
Cayuga Lake
We're back! New jib, new motor mounts... And getting ready to actually do the tension on the rigging properly!

So... Uh. What diameter wires are my shrouds? That seems kind of important both for buying a Loos gauge and for dialing it in! Yes, yes, I'm ready! 26, 37, 32 (or more) on the gauge... I haven't popped out to the boat today with calipers to check the wire diameter. My first guess is that I need a PT-2 and that the shrouds are 1/4". Someone want to reassure me that all of those numbers sound like things you remember?

 

MPongs

New member
We're back! New jib, new motor mounts... And getting ready to actually do the tension on the rigging properly!

So... Uh. What diameter wires are my shrouds? That seems kind of important both for buying a Loos gauge and for dialing it in! Yes, yes, I'm ready! 26, 37, 32 (or more) on the gauge... I haven't popped out to the boat today with calipers to check the wire diameter. My first guess is that I need a PT-2 and that the shrouds are 1/4". Someone want to reassure me that all of those numbers sound like things you remember?
I am using a PT 2 to measure my loads. I don't remember my wire diameter.

Before winding it on, you might want to consult with @Irrational 14. I believe his opinion is that the tension can't be wound on so tight 26/37/32 without some level of reinforcement to the areas around the chainplates. Mine is currently 23/25/20, so quit a bit less pressure.  

 

c56602

Member
58
12
Cayuga Lake
Before winding it on, you might want to consult with @Irrational 14. I believe his opinion is that the tension can't be wound on so tight 26/37/32 without some level of reinforcement to the areas around the chainplates. Mine is currently 23/25/20, so quit a bit less pressure.  
The numbers I’m quoting are used multiple times in this thread.  And if you’re using a PT-2 the wire can’t be more than 1/4” since that’s the largest diameter that will fit that gauge.

I guess I’ll go measure my wires. And run through the manual and see if I see manufacturer numbers…

But the numbers you are giving only really relate if we have the same gauge wires. I suppose I’d really just like to know how many pounds and then I can figure my own numbers based on my wire!

So… Thanks for the reply - it may well be preventing damage and I’ll check here and on the boat and see!

 
The numbers I’m quoting are used multiple times in this thread.  And if you’re using a PT-2 the wire can’t be more than 1/4” since that’s the largest diameter that will fit that gauge.

I guess I’ll go measure my wires. And run through the manual and see if I see manufacturer numbers…

But the numbers you are giving only really relate if we have the same gauge wires. I suppose I’d really just like to know how many pounds and then I can figure my own numbers based on my wire!

So… Thanks for the reply - it may well be preventing damage and I’ll check here and on the boat and see!
At the airport and just catching up…

The numbers I quoted up thread are what I use to keep my forestay tension where I need it at a minimum. Use it as a reference if you like. It is what I have found works best for the Carbon 3/4 Rig.

Even with the higher tension it barely meets my requirements. To enhance my pointing and achieve my sail profiles, I use runners upwind and down to enhance performance and added security. While you can easily cruise the boat without any runners, you need them for any decent performance upwind over 8 knots or running a kite downwind over 10 and always with a code zero if you use one.

If things get spicey downwind (ability to plane) and you choose to not use any runner or backstay, you will most definitely see exaggerated forestay sag in the puffs as the top 3rd of the rig will invert some, robbing your power and possibly compromising your mast integrity. Don’t try this in any wave state. Runners make all of this safer and much stiffer/faster so you can push the boat harder and keep the rig in the boat. 

Note that you are almost guaranteed to pop the hull/deck joint at the chainplates if you wind on the higher tension described. The boat needs to be bulked up in this zone beforehand. Some boats may show evidence of poor judgement by winding the rig too tight. Look for stressed gelcoat in this zone, deflection, or the actual deck seam lifting. This seam zone needs to be backed up, mechanically fastened, and more carbon reinforcement added. Once completed, it makes a huge difference.

In general, the 3/4 carbon rig requires higher tension than an aluminum 7/8 mast. With no backstay, you get the preset forestay tension from the primaries. The runners provide the added tuning needed for your particular wind range upwind and down. Just make sure the boat is beefed up in this area first.

 

D7851855-2C11-42AE-A1A3-9B6A6AC7B2A5.jpeg

EDB26640-5154-424C-B792-4F9E7FC329E9.jpeg

 
Last edited by a moderator:

c56602

Member
58
12
Cayuga Lake
Even with the higher tension it barely meets my requirements. To enhance my pointing and achieve my sail profiles, I use runners upwind and down to enhance performance and added security. While you can easily cruise the boat without any runners, you need them for any decent performance upwind over 8 knots or running a kite downwind over 10 and always with a code zero if you use one.
We figured out the need for the runners... And I guess we'll use @MPongs numbers for now and think about reinforcing (and cranking down) in the future. One thing at a time! Our next real purchase/project should be a rudder! 

 

MPongs

New member
Well, exciting stuff all of this. Hey... You have the 3/4 carbon rig, too?
Yes, mine is a 3/4 carbon rig too. I'm getting Irrational to reinforce my chainplate areas before I try to wind more on. My current numbers work ok up to about 10 knots, although I would still like a bit more tension all around to "trade" a bit of downwind performance for upwind performance. 

 

Jeannic2

New member
34
6
Saguenay
Congrats. Post some cockpit and interior shots when you can. It's interesting to compare the minor changes that were made throughout production. I want to say this was boat 4 or 5.
Is anybody has his Columbia 30 fitted with a sink and a stove? Mine has nothing in the port and starboard pods. Between the weekend races, the plan is to sail overnight with family for 2 or 3 days. I will install some minimum amenities. Any suggestions or pictures of your installations? Also, there is no potable water tank installed. What do you have as water tank?

IMG_3426.JPG

IMG_3425.JPG

 

MPongs

New member
My sink was attached to a small plastic water tank located under the starboard quarter berth. I removed mine because I wasn't confident I'd use it consistently enough to be able to maintain proper hygiene. 

 
I've seen a few variations with the sink and stove layouts.

Mine has the large built in fiberglass sink with pressure fresh water and a small bladder about the size of a pillow case. It's push button and the the pump runs inline with the hose. Compact and simple. Bladders are also super light and easy to install or remove. You'll also find that the sink is insulated and makes a great cooler with drain.

Mine also came with the Single Burner Dometic with built in gimbaled assembly. I originally swapped it out for my Jetboil but went back to the Dometic. I found it more adaptable to my style of cooking. Last two photos are of my boats interior before the deck was installed. Luckily that ugly Red carpet sole is long gone. The front partition (its not a bulkhead) and toilet have also been removed to open up the space and make sails easier to stack where I need them.

I found that both the water bladder and stove are must haves for a weekend on the hook. The simplicity of the systems is the best part that makes the glamping experience much better. I can brew a great cup of coffee or make a real skillet breakfast. I use a compact MSR pot/pan combo that nests together along with a mini coffer percolator. Everything fits in the stove compartment and weighs nil.

In the last pic, you can see the mini entertainment setup. I modified the existing inspection port lid to fit a bluetooth stereo. I still have access to the wiring inside. Opposite this is my Tablet for entertainment. On the other side of the cabin is my Nav station with Chart Plotter/Radio/AIS. Sorry no pics.

7570998_20200828061046771_1_XLARGE.jpg

7570998_20200828061047659_1_XLARGE.jpg

Columbia30_11.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_1894.jpg

 

Jeannic2

New member
34
6
Saguenay
Thanks for the comments and pics. Infortunately, I think the Origo 1500 is discontinued. I'll try to find a used one. I think this one would be the best for cooking more than freeze-dried food sachets. 

 

Latest posts




Top