Modified Columbia 30 info?

c56602

Member
58
12
Cayuga Lake
Latest race update... It's a hard boat to race around the cans solo when the autopilot is a POS. The biggest issue with it is that the control arm pops off of the tiller under load. The second biggest issue is that it goes over hard to start a tack but then loses its mind and just stays hard over... I can probably fix both issues but, hey, I usually have crew!

 

c56602

Member
58
12
Cayuga Lake
TillerClutch is your solo friend.
I really liked having autopilot on my last boat and one-touch tacking... I guess I'm most concerned about the tiller clutch (as with the autopilot) when hoisting/dousing/gybing the chute. But, hey, I can try something different! Or try to fix my autopilot! Or sail with crew ;)  

thx

 

MPongs

New member
I'm curious how do you guys make your boat go upwind well when single / shorthanded in wind and chop and stay competitive against the fleet? I find that is my weakest area, trying to get upwind in stronger winds and chop. 

 

c56602

Member
58
12
Cayuga Lake
I'm curious how do you guys make your boat go upwind well when single / shorthanded in wind and chop and stay competitive against the fleet? I find that is my weakest area, trying to get upwind in stronger winds and chop. 
I'm only competitive upwind on one tack and when it's flat. I tack, lock off the tiller then go and deal with the jib. That leaves plenty of time where the jib is on the wrong side of the main... So Sunday I was sailing away from the boats upwind until I tacked. Then I'd catch back up and pass for a bit and then have to tack again... If auto worked right I'd be in front of the mainsheet for the tack and I'd not lose that time. 

In my head I see all of the same issues with a clutch... In my head... In my head all of my issues are resolved if I can just fix auto. Heck, I even have a remote for mine...

So maybe I just need to fix auto :)  

As for being competitive... It feels to me like it would be hard to do on short courses on our boat. I mean, you haven't even mentioned big wind yet... I saw storms on the radar and reefing isn't quick and easy to do solo so I reefed in the lull between races. But that meant that I was seriously underpowered for half of a race! Still, when the storm came through I was quite happy and just scooting right along.

ymmv!

 
I'm curious how do you guys make your boat go upwind well when single / shorthanded in wind and chop and stay competitive against the fleet? I find that is my weakest area, trying to get upwind in stronger winds and chop. 
Last Sunday with just my wife and two dogs in 25-28knts just outside Angels Gate:

  • #4 Jib with a fuck ton of luff tension and outboard lead.
  • #1 Reef in Main with another fuck ton of luff tension. The reef proved about a 1/2 knot faster than full sail.
  • Max Runner on to maintain headstay tension and flatten mainsail. The newly added double purchase was huge here. Great test.
  • Vang on hard
  • Main traveler played in puffs but mostly all the way down.
  • Mainsheet Fine Tune played in puffs.
  • Target boat speed roughly 6 knots but mostly working to keep boat flat and controlled.
  • Steer bow down to maintain flow on foils and punch through waves. Don't pinch, ever.

A fully crewed boat will still roll you almost every time. There is no substitution for human ballast. The boat needs at least 5 to be competitive.

 

MPongs

New member
Last Sunday with just my wife and two dogs in 25-28knts just outside Angels Gate:

  • #4 Jib with a fuck ton of luff tension and outboard lead.
  • #1 Reef in Main with another fuck ton of luff tension. The reef proved about a 1/2 knot faster than full sail.
  • Max Runner on to maintain headstay tension and flatten mainsail. The newly added double purchase was huge here. Great test.
  • Vang on hard
  • Main traveler played in puffs but mostly all the way down.
  • Mainsheet Fine Tune played in puffs.
  • Target boat speed roughly 6 knots but mostly working to keep boat flat and controlled.
  • Steer bow down to maintain flow on foils and punch through waves. Don't pinch, ever.

A fully crewed boat will still roll you almost every time. There is no substitution for human ballast. The boat needs at least 5 to be competitive.
I am actually surprised how little reef you needed on your mainsail. I had imagined with 2 up in those wind you'd be on to your second reef to keep the boat flat. 

 
Pongs-

The boat is never flat in that breeze with only two people. Manageable, yes. I'm guessing 25- 30 degrees of heel.

More importantly, it depends on which mainsail I'm using. In this case it was the heavy Dacron main with smaller head. A disadvantage.

You'd think that the smaller head would be the safer bet for bigger breeze but the sail is older and even though it's a flat cut, the draft is further aft compared to the other. It's also very heavy compared to the Carbon. It tends to stretch when trimmed rather than setting like it should. Eventually you get the shape you want but it is still too powered up vs. the newer Carbon Laminate sail which you can depower much more effectively and maintains shape. I still would of reefed the Carbon sail too but the difference is I could hold that one longer on the 1st reef since it's so effective. I think the big lesson is never build a Square Top in Dacron. Works okay, but nowhere near the performance of the Carbon GPL. Okay for a pleasure sail.

 

Jeannic2

New member
34
6
Saguenay
How do you use the runners? upwind only in strong breeze and downwind with spinnaker. Or at all time whatever the wind speed and direction? do you completely remove the runners in some particular situation?
I'm discovering the boat and never used runners before.
Thanks.
 
How do you use the runners? upwind only in strong breeze and downwind with spinnaker. Or at all time whatever the wind speed and direction? do you completely remove the runners in some particular situation?
I'm discovering the boat and never used runners before.
Thanks.
The runners control Headstay sag. Start pulling them on upwind when you need to point and/or depower. It also supports the mast tip downwind with the kite. We run a 16:1 with gross tune forward and fine tune aft. For tacks or jibes, pull/release the gross, then adjust the fine. Your sail design and amount of crew dictate how much runner is used.

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Jeannic2

New member
34
6
Saguenay
Thanks Irrational 14! Interesting pictures. I only have the fine tune on my Col30. Enough for now. Maybe I could upgrade when I get better. We will be often sailing with kids on light breeze. In these condition, do you also use the runners? Can I remove it to keep things simple while training with the kids (They will eventually be the racing crew, I hope)? I read that the rig was built without runners for the first hulls.
 

Jeannic2

New member
34
6
Saguenay
I never had a boat so light! It jumps ahead at the slightest breeze. Very satisfying. We will give some headhache to the local fleet in the coming race. Because of the pandemia, last year, I could not cross the boarder to get the boat myself. It was delivered to me at the Canadian boarder. I never visit the boat with the rig on and all set for sailing. Sheets and blocks were in a box and mast down. I think my Col30 was not too much modified and was pretty much kept at the original set-up. I rigged the boat like I thought it sould be and there is no other boat of that kind in my place to compare. Anyone could post pictures of the mast foot set-up for cunningham, reefing system, boom vang and any other upgrade added? Is your mainsail equipped with sliders or it goes out of the mast when not hoisted?
 
I never had a boat so light! It jumps ahead at the slightest breeze. Very satisfying. We will give some headhache to the local fleet in the coming race. Because of the pandemia, last year, I could not cross the boarder to get the boat myself. It was delivered to me at the Canadian boarder. I never visit the boat with the rig on and all set for sailing. Sheets and blocks were in a box and mast down. I think my Col30 was not too much modified and was pretty much kept at the original set-up. I rigged the boat like I thought it sould be and there is no other boat of that kind in my place to compare. Anyone could post pictures of the mast foot set-up for cunningham, reefing system, boom vang and any other upgrade added? Is your mainsail equipped with sliders or it goes out of the mast when not hoisted?
The controls are designed to be intuitive to the user and based on crew size (short handed or full crew), racing styles (buoy or coastal) and budget.
Most boats have been upgraded from stock. Nothing wrong with the factory setup however I would at least upgrade the purchase and lines to lower stretch.
The main items:
-8:1 Cunningham
-At least one reef line, preferably led to cabin winch.
- Double the purchase on your vang and lead it to both sides if not already. One can easily add a cascade for this purpose.
- Add Jib Inhaulers if not installed already. They can be routed from the existing deck organizers.

Keep it simple and minimize any new holes in the deck. It’s a balsa core deck so care should be taken in sealing it all properly.

For your mainsail question, I use just the bolt rope. I think it offers better sail control but if I was shorthanded all the time, I’d prefer sail slides.

As you sail the boat more, you can experiment with the controls and settings to see what works well and refine to your taste.
 

Jeannic2

New member
34
6
Saguenay
Thanks for the advises.
Yesterday, me and my wife on the boat, wind 25-28 kts and sailing upwind, it was sporty. Two reefs in the mainsail and the gib reduced to minimum. We were easily left behind by a J-Boat 36-38 feet. I have the original square top Dacron mainsail which is still in good condition as it wasn't use too much by the previous owner. But the reefing system needs to be improved. With two reefs, we were not able to give the sail a decent shape. The gib is laminate, not new but still good, on a furler. Not the best when it is not fully open. There again, the shape was bad. I'm thinking to get a smaller gib for stronger winds. Also, with two peoples, the mainsail hoisting and droping is not easy with the bolt rope. The battens needs a lot of help to slide in the guide. Thinking to upgrade with a track on the mast and sliders on the mainsail. I tried the assymetric spinaker with 8-10 kts of wind. Pretty easy to manage. Until what wind force do you keep the big assymetric on? Do you use a retrieving line to drop it directly in the companionway in heavy conditions?
 

ryley

Super Anarchist
5,520
668
Boston, MA
Thanks for the advises.
Yesterday, me and my wife on the boat, wind 25-28 kts and sailing upwind, it was sporty. Two reefs in the mainsail and the gib reduced to minimum. We were easily left behind by a J-Boat 36-38 feet. I have the original square top Dacron mainsail which is still in good condition as it wasn't use too much by the previous owner. But the reefing system needs to be improved. With two reefs, we were not able to give the sail a decent shape. The gib is laminate, not new but still good, on a furler. Not the best when it is not fully open. There again, the shape was bad. I'm thinking to get a smaller gib for stronger winds. Also, with two peoples, the mainsail hoisting and droping is not easy with the bolt rope. The battens needs a lot of help to slide in the guide. Thinking to upgrade with a track on the mast and sliders on the mainsail. I tried the assymetric spinaker with 8-10 kts of wind. Pretty easy to manage. Until what wind force do you keep the big assymetric on? Do you use a retrieving line to drop it directly in the companionway in heavy conditions?
you can set up a bolt rope main with slides that will fit in the existing track. don't add track. I have a 'delivery' main with slugs on it exactly for these shorthanded trips where I won't be able to flake or roll the main by myself at the other end of the journey.

In 25 knots double-handed upwind, I'm pretty sure I'd only have the one reef in. you need to make sure the reefing system is robust, I still have a cheek block to put in to give the tack end a better lead when it is down. sail shape should be pretty good if it's cut right for the reefs. I've always found that a full main ragging with a small jib is more efficient than a reefed main with a larger jib on this boat. roller reefing a jib never ends up looking good and I can only see it for conditions where you got caught out.

As far as the kite goes, our A2 is rated up to about 15 true and then we have an A3 that I'd fly in 25 no problem (and have, shorthanded). Sometimes we rig a lazy tack to assist with the drop, but often if it gets too sporty, just going deep and doing a letter box or even just a companionway drop behind the main is sufficient.
 

Jeannic2

New member
34
6
Saguenay
Well noted. I will have the main modified during the next winter and ask quotations for a smaller jib. If we go ahead with more serious racing, I could have a new main with bolt rope fabricated and kept for regattas. Ryley, post some pics of your reefing arrangements if you can. I will need to modify my setup for more efficiency.
 

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