Modified Columbia 30 info?

[longy]

Without knowing your exact set-up: easing the h/s will only remove some tension on all the aft swept rigging (uppers, inters, lowers). But at the same time, if mast partners are firmly chocked, it will increase the pre-bend they induce.
Generally in your situation, to reduce pre-bend one would tension lowers & inters, and/or reduce chocking. I-14 should be able to give better answers on how this spar reacts to changes

 

[Steam Flyer]

Without knowing your exact set-up: easing the h/s will only remove some tension on all the aft swept rigging (uppers, inters, lowers). But at the same time, if mast partners are firmly chocked, it will increase the pre-bend they induce.
Generally in your situation, to reduce pre-bend one would tension lowers & inters, and/or reduce chocking. I-14 should be able to give better answers on how this spar reacts to changes

^ this ^

To reduce the prebend you need to either tighten the lowers or loosen the uppers. The bend is caused by the forward vecter of the swept spreaders. Loosening the headstay will take tension off the rig (which is good) but it minimally change the differential between the uppers and lowers.

 

[Irrational 14]

Jeannic2 - Forgot to ask, are you using my numbers using a LOOS2 gauge??? Note the numbers will be off if you are using a different gauge other than the one mentioned. Also double check to make sure you are referring to the correct cable size in the chart on the guage.

Let me know what your numbers are currently and it may explain what were are looking at. Feel free to PM me if you'd like.

All - this is a deck stepped rig. For shroud Winter Relax, easing the forestay will relieve the primaries and lowers. The caps will most likely need a bit of ease also if they are strung on b/c they terminate above the hounds. Quite similar to an Antrim 27 or most skiffs.

 

[longy]

OK, so no partner induced prebend. So mast prebend is due to interaction between uppers (inducing bend) and inters & lowers (removing bend)

What is this "winter relax" thing?

 

[Irrational 14]

Winter Storage. He's on the East Coast. No need to leave your rig boned on until Spring especailly if its not gonna see any use.

 

[ryley]

Things I want next time- new furler and torsion cable for my code zero.

Irrational, I have been very happy with my Facnor FX2500+ furler. Not the cheapest unit, but not the worst and it has been very reliable. I got it with the ratchet but it's not needed unless you think you're going to keep the sail up for some time and want to be extra sure it won't accidentally unfurl. I have the top down mod but I've been bottom-upping my C0 effectively.

 

[Irrational 14]

Lumbo 30 for sale in Baltimore. Check SA Classifieds. Nice looking boat.
https://sailinganarchy.com/advert/2008-columbia-30-sport/

 

[BrightAyes]

Lumbo 30 for sale in Baltimore. Check SA Classifieds. Nice looking boat.
https://sailinganarchy.com/advert/2008-columbia-30-sport/

$50K for a one-off highly modified 1D that never went everywhere? You'd have to hate yourself all sorta ways to part with the much ca$h for such a homely creature.

 

[Irrational 14]

Remember folks, hover over the avatar above and hit ignore.

 

[Meat Wad]

Remember folks, hover over the avatar above and hit ignore.

I don't know bright eyes, but 49,900K seems a bit much these days.
I bet my Zap would take the C30 to school and back

wink wink

 

[Irrational 14]

Let’s see…
Phrf SoCal rates that particular C30 at 66/48/48.
Looks like your Zap is rated at
135/135/135

I’d say the price is in line considering that it is still somewhat modern (designed and built in this millennium) and not another 35-40 year old boat you usually see on Craigslist.

This particular boat offers:

-Southern Spars Carbon Rig
-Carbon Appendages
-Planing Hull designed by Morelli & Melvin
- Not made in China
-New 3Di’s and kites- probably 16k right here
-New Awlgrip - not cheap
-New Running Rigging - not cheap

There’s probably more I’m not aware of.

I’m sure the owner is probably trying to recoup some costs… wouldn’t you?
Where else do you find this kind of boat in this price range? The J88 is close in the specs. Yes, they have OD but your gonna pay north of 100k for a used boat. The Tiger is close but those take a ton of money to get up to standards too. Just ask the Ed.

As an owner I can tell you there’s an easy 50k just getting the boat to the personal level I like. Still much less than most options. I’d love a Dehler 30 ($265k) but not gonna happen. This boat still gives that 16 knot sustained experience downwind at a fraction of most others in the same A Fleet.
As a 30 year skiff sailor, it checks the boxes for me.

 

[Jeannic2]

Jeannic2 - Forgot to ask, are you using my numbers using a LOOS2 gauge??? Note the numbers will be off if you are using a different gauge other than the one mentioned. Also double check to make sure you are referring to the correct cable size in the chart on the guage.

Let me know what your numbers are currently and it may explain what were are looking at. Feel free to PM me if you'd like.

All - this is a deck stepped rig. For shroud Winter Relax, easing the forestay will relieve the primaries and lowers. The caps will most likely need a bit of ease also if they are strung on b/c they terminate above the hounds. Quite similar to an Antrim 27 or most skiffs.

Thanks to All for the comments. It help me understanding the shrouds interaction.
I14, yes, I rigged the shrouds tension with a Loos PT-2 Gauge and, as far as I remember, I carefully verified the wire size before. The numbers were: Uppers: 21, Lowers: 20 and Intermediates 27. I used the numbers given in KG by the original Columbia 30 user manual and interpolate to convert in numbers for Loos. Following the manual, with these numbers, the pre-bend should be 78mm at S1 and 64mm at S2. It was obviously more than that. As there is a furler on the headstay, I can't verify the tension on the headstay. I did relax the headstay tension with the furler adjustment and gave 2-3 turns on each other turnbuckles to relax the rig for winter. I will restart the tuning next spring and try to have something better, with less mast bend.
To your opinion, are the given Loos numbers making sense?

 

[MPongs]

Thanks to All for the comments. It help me understanding the shrouds interaction.
I14, yes, I rigged the shrouds tension with a Loos PT-2 Gauge and, as far as I remember, I carefully verified the wire size before. The numbers were: Uppers: 21, Lowers: 20 and Intermediates 27. I used the numbers given in KG by the original Columbia 30 user manual and interpolate to convert in numbers for Loos. Following the manual, with these numbers, the pre-bend should be 78mm at S1 and 64mm at S2. It was obviously more than that. As there is a furler on the headstay, I can't verify the tension on the headstay. I did relax the headstay tension with the furler adjustment and gave 2-3 turns on each other turnbuckles to relax the rig for winter. I will restart the tuning next spring and try to have something better, with less mast bend.
To your opinion, are the given Loos numbers making sense?

for what it's worth, my boat has the same loos numbers as yours, 21, 20 and 27

 

[Irrational 14]

Thanks to All for the comments. It help me understanding the shrouds interaction.
I14, yes, I rigged the shrouds tension with a Loos PT-2 Gauge and, as far as I remember, I carefully verified the wire size before. The numbers were: Uppers: 21, Lowers: 20 and Intermediates 27. I used the numbers given in KG by the original Columbia 30 user manual and interpolate to convert in numbers for Loos. Following the manual, with these numbers, the pre-bend should be 78mm at S1 and 64mm at S2. It was obviously more than that. As there is a furler on the headstay, I can't verify the tension on the headstay. I did relax the headstay tension with the furler adjustment and gave 2-3 turns on each other turnbuckles to relax the rig for winter. I will restart the tuning next spring and try to have something better, with less mast bend.
To your opinion, are the given Loos numbers making sense?

You numbers sound like they are in the range.
Here in Cabrillo the summer winds are gone and we’ve softened our rig to account for this. Current tensions are:
uppers (caps) 20/lowers 25/intermediates 26
Our forestay is currently at 27
In a nutshell, a bit more lower tension then you to counter the vang forces and keep the main powerful down low in light to moderate breeze.

 

[Jeannic2]

Interesting. So I'm wondering, if our numbers are the same or close, how come my mast has so much pre-bend?

 

[Jeannic2]

Main projects for next season:

• Upgrade the reefing system (anyone has pictures of their mainsail luff hooking? Do you use reefing hooks at the goose neck?)
• Upgrade for adjustable jib traveler cars (is 3:1 enough?)
• Install jib in-haulers (I14, I will use the pics you already joined to this thread. Do you have a complete drawing of the system?)

And about 50 more small projects. The boat needs some attention. I think it was left abandoned during the last few years.

 

[Irrational 14]

Interesting. So I'm wondering, if our numbers are the same or close, how come my mast has so much pre-bend?

Your mast butt could be pinned farther aft and/or you may have less rake (shorter forestay).

 

[Irrational 14]

C32 on the Quantum Instagram page...
Assuming this one is in the Annapolis Area.
Looking good even with the kite not all the way up.
Pin head main and looks to have the Ballenger Alum mast package.

 

[ryley]

Main projects for next season:

• Upgrade the reefing system (anyone has pictures of their mainsail luff hooking? Do you use reefing hooks at the goose neck?)
• Upgrade for adjustable jib traveler cars (is 3:1 enough?)
• Install jib in-haulers (I14, I will use the pics you already joined to this thread. Do you have a complete drawing of the system?)

And about 50 more small projects. The boat needs some attention. I think it was left abandoned during the last few years.

Reefing: I'm going to try to replicate the system on the IC37. Very quick at the luff end and very easy.
Jib traveler cars: yes, 3:1 is enough.
adding inhaulers has been a game changer. mine are set up with about 6:1 purchase I think which I find adequate, can inhaul essentially even with the top of the cabintop, any more than that and I think it would just stall the keel.

which is on my agenda this spring, re-templating the keel and making sure it's symmetric. I have the templates, just need to transfer them to something more robust.

 

[95Terp]

Assuming this one is in the Annapolis Area.

That's the former Exigent...